dannyboy

sorry dude but youve confused the hell out of me! The crank pulley is held to the crank with one 12 point bolt,look at the stickies because these have been known to work loose causing keyway damage and worse The vibration damper is attached to the pulley via four allen key bolts

i was beening funny with the battery acid alex,hope nobody tries to clean metal using hot battery acid :bonk:

id say it for both kev,engine and exhaust,on a g60 anyway. the exhaust is pretty rigid compared to alot for cars ive seen i can tell when g60 is running right cause it doesnt vibrate as much. Tempermental old bag, and thats just the wife!! :lol:

6 looks covered in oil and deposits-bad 2 and 5 are good Rest is covered in deposits,maybe from burnt oil or coolant. Valve guides worn maybe? Them plugs deffo need to be replaced,deposits are whats probably causing the misfire.You need to find out whats causing the deposits,more likely to be oil or coolant Ive never seen a spark plug gap that big before... maybe just my imagation

i always thought the 'vibration absorber' on the subframe on a g60 was about as useful as an underwater hair-drier. The exhaust resonates even on bloody idle. If i had a quid for every time someone said 'your exhaust is blowing mate' id be a rich man. Doesnt help the exhaust weighs half the car,bit of a overkill by VW

Thats not the only nuts he has got loose :lol:

8.5v is a bit low but considering that your cranking thats normal.what state is your battery in?a dead cell could cause low voltage causeing injectors not to open fully,leaning out. could very well be your cam/crank timing is out.there is a guide on this fourm to check it.think its a sticky. How did you check the ignition timing? you need a timing gun for that

mine might require a bit more kip.mines been sitting in my garden since feb 2008 needing bit more than tlc :lol: Cant bring myself to strip her!!!

does it idle smooth?

Nice to see your motor is going to be back on the road soon kip. Same cant be said for my old one though :lol:

Very Sad when you see a very reputable company loose business because of something so simple.Start of bad rep is very hard to loose will end up going down TSR lines which ill never use. Its a company at the end of the day,you pay to have a service done.If the the service is not satisfactory,ask for your money back or report it to trade standards.During a reacession you really dont want to loose business.But theyre forcing you to do so!!

where have you plugged the guage into? be specific because some of the hoses have one-way valves fitted(open on vacuum,closed on boost).if your reading zero your at equal pressure to outside so yes your not in boost you havent meantioned anything about changing the ECU? From lots of experience with these, zero boost is a pipe that has popped off or linkage on the throttle body disconnected to the bypass valve. Take the pipe off closest to the charger(boost side) and cover it with your hand,rev engine with other hand.this will verify if the charger is making boost.your hand will move if on boost!!!Do the MFA test and check the results if it is,then look under where the throttle is.there is a linkage that closes the bypass on full boost.check it hasnt been knocked off. if these two dont work then you have a pipe off or something much worse

its all fun and games til your missis drinks that funny,brown soup and Alex walks out of the house with a brake calpier embedded in the back of his head :lol: Try hot battery acid next time,sure to bring up decent result!!!!!

sounds like youve got a golf rather than a rado.only older mk2 and mk1 golfs,sciroccos,jettas..etc used 020 boxes.all rados are 02a but its common in europe that they bolt 020 boxes from desiel golfs to g60 to fit in older golfs mk1s and mk2s. To change to cable drive you need-the correct drive cable and mechanical clocks.there are lots of types of speedo drive cable both LHD and RHD choose wisely...... 1) remove the plastic electric speedo drive from top of the gearbox(think its a 21 or 22 mm spanner required) 2)fit the mechanical cable in the hole left after removing the sensor,feed it through the gromet on the bulkhead to back of the instrument panel 3)push the speedo connector on the back of the clocks and other electrical connections then fit the clocks.

Ive seen a few examples of racecars ditching the ARB and use smaller versions of springs and gas dampers,which to me is a very good idea since they can be adjustable in many ways. Downside is they wont be anywhere near plug and play and would require lots of cutting and welding and custom parts. Depends on how far you wana go and how much you got in dough?

cheers man, thought i was going to lose the 'find the fault' game

Hi guys, just one for G60 boys(but should be similar for everyone) just for information Had a problem with my G60 being a bit tempermental at times,stuttering very slighty when cold and spluttering a bit when flooring it and generally bit lumpy now and again.Been looking at all possibilties- HT leads,dizzy cap,ECU relay,vacunm hoses,fuel pipes,Timing, dizzy timing.Nothing decided to take the fuel pump out today to have a look. and look what i found! There was one strand of wire on the fuel pump postive left as all others had broke.just goes to show that just because the pump is running doesnt mean its running right. also gave the fuel sensor contacts a clean as the carbon from the brushes was giving a crap reading. Repaired the wire,ohms test to confirm and placed it back in. Now i can feel the digi-lag kick again after a few seconds and runs much better. Might worth having a look guys if your performance has dropped and not running as good as she was!

coil pack?

nope, its not broken.just make sure you push it back in properly back into the plug holder. next time grab it by the holder, not the lead!

tim, my hat is off to you mate. That is some amazing set of skills you have! You can do mine when your finished yours :lol: Out of interest which engine code did you get the drive by cable throttle body from?

Sounds very much like vapour lock in the fuel lines and fuel rail,especially its only happening when its warm.

I know how you feel alex,one step forward,two back.Thats why everyone loves these cars :tumbleweed: I snapped my ABS sensor on saturday, just as i was about to start doing my wheel bearings,got so p!$$ed off i didnt bother doing them in the end ---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:40 PM ---------- Alex just a thought,the nipple on the inlet is very simliar to the ones on the throttle body itself(if not the same). ive snapped one off the throttle body ones before and found it was threaded but still a pain in the ar$£ to get out even with a tap because of the two different metals. Reminds me i need to drill that bloody exhaust stud off my spare g60 head...:mad:

only about 175-180 bhp.70mm pulley and chip so quite mild. I can feel the top end is pretty choked up,compared to one that has free flowing exhaust and ported charger!!

alex did you see the youtube video of my g60 with ASD box on mine?

You have to spend a bit more to get a decent example. i paid 3200 euro for my G60 but was completey standard with no rust on the body(control arms,brakes area had a little bit,but quite normal) I 2k is too low a price to get decent example considering- a)corrados are getting rarer b)getting older,parts going obsolete=expensive parts if you can find them People have to spend a bit to keep them on the road,so your not going to get cheap example thats been well kept for 2k.maybe but very unlikely