dannyboy

i was looking into that too! would be nice to have electric power steering on rado but would there be any space on a rado one? cramped as it is!

:agrue: Now,now play nice!

Inpro projector headlights,proper xenon bulbs and uprated headlight loom=laser beam lights that you can actually see where your driving!!they dont look bad either and OEM fit!

weird the way my name changed,think i had an account before and it was linked to my email address.had to postpone engine coversion due to unforseen expense

everything from your old box,starter motor,shifter tower,clutch cylinder will bolt straight on! No mods needed Alex but id change the clutch slave cylinder if its old. If you look at the mk3 tower where tower cables join to the tower,your raddo cable would have to been at an angle which i found caused lot of problems,hence used the original tower Ive just realised that i used to have different name on the forum,i used to be called offhisrocker. think that happened when site got updated?

i used to use that technique quite a bit,works! but in all fairness would you put your head beside a glader if its ready to go bang? I deffo wont!

Ive had one corrado go up in flames because of fuel leak, so i would highly recomend changing them hoses and quickly! Mine was due to an animal eating thru line tho.But i had same prob as you a year before.99% certain its the U bend one as mentioned at the right side of the fuel rail.Simple,change it or this will happen-

did the older models get plastic ones? never seen them,ive only ever got metal ones.beware cheap ones,bearings are not brillant on them and seals leak destroying the bearing very quick. Buy cheap,buy twice Sound silly but is your radiator matrix clean?

yep starting in third from about 70-80 kph.it was very windy too,i should have picked better day. its hit 245 kph on the flat with no wind before.

some of the early 1.8t engines had the platic impeller water pumps which the impeller rounded off on the pump drive shaft.get a metal one for better insurance

alex can i put mine on even though im in germany? dont want to screw up ur lovely map!

I used to hate leaving my car around rough areas,it simple stuff like what just happen to you that shows you that kids dont give a S$%t these days and their parents are twice as bad for letting them away with this stuff. Have you seen the news article few months ago in germany- a mother was killed by some young kids dropping a small block of wood off a autobahn overpass bridge and went through the windowscreen killing her instantly.Very sad to see stuff like this

hard boiled or fried? :lol:

Here you go guys,took the car out on the autobahn this afternoon just to show you what mk3 diesel box is like

is your whole radiator getting hot? sounds like your thermostat has failed closed or coolant pump is busted.or maybe head gasket as worst case. feel the bottom of the rad,it should get very hot but dont be fooled into thinking that the thermostat works.only putting new one in(might as well since you have old one out and theyre not expensive) will give you piece of mind Does the fan kick in? usually good indicator if thermostat has opened. Failed head gasket is ususally dectected better when cold as it idle rough on startup due to coolant escaping into cyllinder and mayo on the oil cap

sorry dude i think youve been ripped off especially since you didnt actually get the metering head itself,just the flap housing which is worth nothing as they generally dont wear.Even if they do you can adjust it I know the feeling of been ripped off,i was when i bought a 1.9 g60 engine and found out when i got home one of the pistons had destroyed the block cylinder.and it cost me 600 euro

???? you mean you got the metering head but no fuel injector pipes? thats all metering head is! unless he stated with injector pipes

no its a fair question simong.Its almost identical because its a 02a box but few small differences. The shifter tower off the mk3 is slighty different and its difficult to engage all gears.you could be able to get first or reverse but then couldnt get fifth and then vise-versa.also the tower has different fittings for the change cables. i spent two hours trying to adjust the mk3 tower,it just doesnt engage gears properly using corrado cable change. theres no LSD in any 02a box but the differential is slighty different to petrol one and seems to lock more than a normal petrol box.On the petrol box grab the output flange or driveshaft spin it and the opposite side will spin opposite way.diesel box spins the same way! Its straight bolt-on but use original tower and your good to go!

nice motor coullstar! wish i lived closer to a track. Cant use mine as a track car as its my daily

a ASD box on a g60 (around 180 bhp mark) first gear is little longer which makes it bit of a pain moving off in traffic but very small difference(im a picky guy :lol:) you can feel the engines slower response second gear is extention of first still feeling the engine response slowly building up Third is where the engine really pulls and feel that torque all the way upto 100mph(6200 limit) Fourth is like a in-between gear of orginal fourth/fifth(if you had ATB box) which you can get nearly topspeed but drop-off in power after 5600 rpm if you still have normal cams and ISV not fitted with one-way valve Fifth gear is really an overdrive gear so dont expect much power til you get over 3000 rpm but youll cruise at 2500 rpm at 70 mph all day and saves fuel Ive got 690 km on a 55 litre tank,could be a bit more(i chickened out when the needle was not touching the red anymore :lol: ) but that was easy driving all the way,35 minutes of traffic and stayed at the speed limit.out of a mildly modded G60 that isnt bad. No mods are required for four cylinder boxes using TDI box but keep orginal shifter tower. for VR i think the bell housings are different.in that case take gears out and put them in VR box. The TDI box is the best mod ive done to date,saves fuel and gives me accelaration where its needed.and i have done 149 mph without overspinning g-lader (5200 rpm in fifth) so you can get to top speed. Right after that i think i need a brew!!!

corrado been a dead axle at the rear makes it more solid turn in at the rear than the front hence the 'cocking hind leg' effect.most new cars have independent rear which makes design more complicated and expensive... remember corrado was designed over 23 years ago using available parts hence the golf front suspension and passat rear beam

theres lots of stuff they wont tell you about motorsport in books and classes,you have to be trackside to see some of the stuff ive seen or didnt want to see!! Cutting scuttle panel(where windscreen wiper motor is) off the fire wall to improve airflow through the engine bay and keep things cooler but not very safe if fire starts or engine goes pop.Drilling holes in the bell housing to save weight and cool clutch,gearbox oil coolers even water sprayer to cool brakes theres lots of stuff you never see till you do a few track days with some of the professionals

:lol: rob_b. Monkey youve never heard of putting more negitive camber on the rears?prob only thing that keeps rear end of the corrado going in straight ahead postion rather than sideways ! On the track as you take a corner the tyre and suspension flex.You want as much of the tyre surface on the ground as it flexes to its max. so having negitive chamber actually helps traction around corners. Pain in the A&$e on normal roads as your tyres will wear on the inside much faster!like my last pair

9 times out of ten its usually the problem is the output flange seal which you will see oil fired outwards from the flange.

if your using pistons that lower CR or raise it you dont need a head spacer,just one head gasket as normal. I dont like the idea of using head spacers anyway,cheap way of getting CR right but prob worst way.You want the combustion to happen in the piston crown and dome of the cylinder head,not the cylinder walls which head spacer does. The KR 1.8 16v engine is brilliant engine to use(and my personal choice too) but rebuild it before you start.You want a solid engine to begin with otherwise your going to have to strip it apart in few thousand miles because you overstressed already tired components. You can use g60 management to save costs and its very simple to diagnose+adapt but its old and crude type of injection system. So you have a PG block and KR head? Your going down the 16v turbo route,not g60 turbo. The g60 turbo is so much more simpler as it retains 8v head,loses the g-charger and gains a turbo(well pretty easy) Few guys on here have done it,ask around i dont mean to be negative but saves you making mistake from the start