dannyboy

Cheers mr monkey :lol: Was it quite harsh vibrations?or was it engine transmitting through the chassis?.Still in the process of doing my 20v and ive been warned that the engine does buck about abit so maybe stronger front mount would be nice.but not going solid or poly

Thats my Wife!!!! :lol:

anyone thought about using a diesel crossmember mount or are they different?

welcome fellow :wave: your about to have some interesting times with your new-found baby,what model do you have?

guys,is anyone here using dbw pedals on their 20vt? the wiring is boggling me as cant find wiring for dbw pedal on the loom.spent past three days searching,cant find info

Id agree with grim. Plus i liked the KR engine (1.8 16v) as it came straight from golf mk2 gti, they are rev happy engines and excellent fun. just keep on top of maintance and their bulletproof.and can take quite a bit of abuse ive owned gti mk2 16v so i know their great engines but never driven a corrado with one.cant be that much difference except bit more weight.

G60 or VR for noise and power valvers are good dailys others are bit easier to live with as the G60 and VR are bit more expensive to run. As said if you want straight line power,go VR if you want handling buy a 4 pot.G60 is best of the 4 pots

make sure the driveshaft nut is done up on the hub to 240-260 nm. mine done that and had wheel bearing drone noise,because i didnt do the nut up tight enough. Only noticed it when i was getting new tyres put on.

just make sure you remember which way the pump sits in the tank when you put it back in or the float can touch the sides causing a false reading and leading to running out of fuel, Twice in one week!! how embarrasing!!!

didnt realise you can still get 2-pack paint anymore.got rid of it over here because high VOCs and cyanide content

wasn't it in the classifeds earlier this week? like the rims!

try rotate the cam til number 6 inlet is open and have a look to see if oil is coming from inlet. Your going to have to time it up anyway so rotate it if you need to. V6 4 motion,you'll have to speak to the VR boys about that.but from what i gather 24v v6 is a easy conversion. my 1.8t conversion is been a royal pain in the a$$ with wiring

you need timing gun for this. the ignition is also ecu controlled so only happens at certain rpms.It might be your actual cam timing is out. If it feels like a flatspot,then picks up its igniton timing or sensor going(usually hall sensor) Check the timing first before changing any parts and check all wires to and from coil,dizzy,HT leads are all good To check timing- 1)Pull the cover for inspection hole for flywheel off.there is 0 degree mark and mark without.this is 8' mark.put a bit of tipex on this mark so its easier to see 2)warm engine up til oil is 80c 3)turn off all electrial loads,fans,lights stereo etc 4)remove blue temp sensor plug and crank breather hose.engine tone should lower if working 5)connect timing gun,making sure trigger wire is on HT lead number one 6)rev the engine over 3000 three times to cancel hot idle function if on 7)set the revs to 2500-3000 and check the flywheel. 8)it should be between 0' and 8'. 6' is spot on.i just use 8' mark 9)if not correct,loosen M8 bolt that holds the dizzy in place then turn dizzy until timing is within the marks. 10)reconnect plug and hose 11)take her for a spin and check throughout rev range If its not timing or it intermitally keeps jumping backwards and forwards out of timing suspect a failing hall sender

might go-only 1 and half hour away. Costs a bit though!!! 60 euro is a bit steep!!! tony are you taking the hull-hook van holland ferry?get the dover-dunqurk one.much cheaper!!!!! but longer drive! £60 return with two people off-peak time(10pm-4am)

check your ignition timing,sounds off especially at these rpms Also have you had car chipped?

head gasket looks ok,not brilliant but sealing.Dont think youd ever really see a gasket gone on opposing ends,more likely to go between cylinders. your coolant is quite bad a colour. 6 has ingested oil on big scale,looks like its coming in the inlet valve and exiting exhaust so suspect valve stem seal.looks like 5 is not far behind.1,3,4 are starting to ingest oil. number 2 is the only good one. Id personally check the head,your bores dont look that bad but you can see a bit of ovality by eye. Might even be an oil scraper ring gone on 6,any scratches on the bores?

Adam,what the hell happened the bore and piston?did a piece of the piston break off? most be what the score marks are from. At least you got off the ring without shutting the ring for a hour, unlike me!

Niceish day so cut the grass and washed the rado. Might be outting 1.8t on hold soon if landlord gives me a decent price offer for the house though

oh the ECU is de-imobilised and the exhaust pipe is Qpeg not dubpower. Yeah was thinking that alex but the fuse box is on the opposite side,just wondering if loom stretches that far? we'll have to see. Think the only good thing about LHD is the brake servo is on right hand side(looking from front) of the bulkhead so it doesnt interfere with engine in any way. I was feeling brave to try tackle wiring but theres hardly any diagrams for it.Starting to think maybe getting the loom modified by company will be much quicker,but then thats taking away the fun of the conversion Just looking at the head part number- 058 103 373 D That doesnt match up with APX on VAG.com even though APX is stamped (proper dot matrix letters) Anyone got an idea?

I believe i used g60 one because tdi puts it at a different angle.been a while since i done it but pretty sure i kept g60 one

Seen g reg black rado southbound M1 near m25 on sunday about 4.00 pm. Making some noise too!

Well after a long time debating to myself which direction to go, i decided to go down the 1.8t route Ive just driven to uk and back on sunday (2300 km) with low milege APX engine complete with ASD gearbox,ecu and looms.Came with organic VR6 clutch and DBW footpedal(which ive just found out is from 1.9tdi) will footpedal work?no idea, the loom also doesnt have connector for DBW footpedal but bdw throttle body.strange also came with dubpower downpipe and cat bypass 2.5 inch which means ill have to get bigger exhaust,well thats my excuse :lol: Going to be very interesting to see if i can fit a RHD loom to a LHD corrado! Need to find someone who can modify the loom for rado and use it on a LHD car Pictures of coversion coming soon!!!!

yeah alex, was scratching my head for a while when i first installed it,trying to work out the tower and different angles on tdi tower.Every gear bar 3and 4 was a pain in the a$$ to engage.Original tower sorted it. was it same for you?

yands,your having the same problem i did when i put the ASD box into my G60. keep the original shifter tower,its much better cause tdi one the cable are stressed at certain angles!

You have to be careful with removing ABS stuff.For insurance reasons your modifying your vehicle so its different from standard. Im sure insurance companies will like the fact you removed it without telling them cause they wont have to pay out should you crash. Anyway,i dont like driving my rado,especially in the rain without abs.Just locks up too easy.I busted my abs sensor week and half ago trying to remove it when i was going to fit new bearings on front. As said ,you cant remove old ones(metal ones) without destroying them! so order some new ones before!!!