spoier

Busted my butt this weekend and got a lot of stuff done on the Corrado. Finally have nice 3pt belts, got rid of the AWFUL automatic seatbelt system our poor US cars got. Still need to remove the knee bars and get some of those shelf things http://g60.f4.ca/2003-09-20-belts/done.jpg Also installed a B3 Jetta moonroof (some shimming required) but discovered that the used unit is broken :( So I'm going to have to get another one, maybe a B3 or B4 Passat moonroof, as they have less curve and require less shimming. http://g60.f4.ca/2003-09-21-moonroof/installed.jpg http://g60.f4.ca/2003-09-21-moonroof/gap.jpg Skye

Backpressure is a myth. No car "needs" backpressure. Sometimes the exhaust can be tuned so the sound waves reflect back just as the exhaust valves are open, to promote slightly better scavenging (motorcycles often do this), but I wouldn't worry about that. http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_produ ... uemyth.htm If your cat is in good shape, you might get around a slight (2-5 bhp) gain by bypassing it. If its clogged, obviously the gains will be greater (but so would replacing it with a stock cat) Skye

1. gauges/lights not working, I'm sure its all the same root cause, get the Bentley manual and trace one circuit that isn't working until you find where the juice is stopping 2. beep beep beep yeah I'm familiar with that check out my "oil pressure warning buzzer driving me mad" thread also in the Problems forum Skye

116 C is fine... that's about 240 F and that's the upper limit of the "safe" range for most oils. Oils are usually designed around a 210-220F operating temp, hence most thermostatically controlled oil coolers open at about 180-190 F. Sorry about the unit conversion Skye

If you're not pinging or knocking with 98 RON you won't get any advantage from 100 RON. However if you use 100 RON you might be able to advance the timing a few more degrees, and you COULD get an improvement that way Skye

OK got some more news to report on this problem. I had a close look at the Bentley wiring diagram and verified with my multitester, the high pressure switch is NO (normally open) and the low pressure switch is NC. So, when the car is running normally, it should be the opposite, the high pressure switch on the filter housing should be closed (near zero resistance) and the low pressure switch should be open (infinite resistance). I verified this is true on the car. Then, I made a short jumper wire with a spade at one end and a ring terminal at the other, disconnected the yellow wire from the high pressure switch, and connected the yellow wire DIRECTLY to ground via a valve cover nut. Then I disconnected the wire from the low pressure switch entirely. This simulates good oil pressure under all conditions. And guess what? After a warm run, then parking the car for a few hours and then driving it again, it started beeping again. So its *definately* not a REAL oil pressure problem - its something to do with the wiring, or the warning computer circuit. Next step will be to inspect the connections on the back of the warning circuit in the cluster, and temporarily run two new wires from the switches to the cluster, to see if there is a break or short in one of the wires. Skye

Yes, will definately document the process for everyone Skye

Good suggestion!! Like this? No oil cooler I see... I wonder if it would be too short. I'll order one and find out. Just got my ETKA CD today :D Skye

This is a great, cheap mod - the entire oil cooling system from any Volvo turbo swaps right into the Corrado G60, getting rid of the stupid factory oil/water heat exchanger. The only problem is the threaded pipe that holds the stock oil cooler in place needs to be shortened slightly and threaded further to get the volvo sandwich plate on. Has anyone done this swap, how did you secure it? Is there a pipe stud that can be used from another car? I have the possibility of getting a short run of properly sized threaded pipes made up at a machinist, would anyone be interested in buying these? Skye

Well, guess what, the new sensors didn't fix the beeping, it acted up again last night. Time to fit a real pressure gauge, and check out the wiring on the back of the instrument cluster :( Skye

I like Henny's "J DUB". Call me crazy. Skye

Anyone got a diagram of the NON-PASSIVE seatbelt system (euro/canada)? Can't seem to find any in the Bentley... would help while installing the 3pt conversion in my US spec car... there are a lot of strange fasteners and bracketry Thanks, Skye

Hahah that's funny, I also have an XR4Ti (well, its being converted to a Sierra Cosworth) It's being turned into a rally car http://www.rallyrace.net/journals.php Skye

lucky tosser!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What else is run on the voltage regulator? Do any of those other gauges fluctuate or just oil temp? Skye

No way its all about the RX :D I think my 16" look proper

Yes, I have one of these from a '96 jetta sitting in my living room ready to install actually... you have to shim out the mounting holes with some washers to get it to align properly and like you mentioned the curve is slightly different but if you get it aligned right it will slide back without binding.... Writeup here http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/detail_ ... ?FAQID=144 Skye

That is strange, if I disconnect my blue sensor with the car running the RPM drops but stays steady, and plug it back in the RPMs rise and stay steady... an unsteady ("hunting") idle is usually due to a faulty or dirty ISV valve My fave link.... http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Engine/g60_problems.html Get a multimeter and you can check the blue sensor: [Jan]: The values of this sensor must be roughly, Bentely pp 24.250-2: 10 C = 3000 - 4000 Ohm 20 C = 2000 - 2800 Ohm (this is typical room temp) 80 C = 300 - 400 Ohm 100C = 170 - 220 Ohm (this is typical operating temp) Skye

No, 20W50 is not too thick, look at the viscosity charts in the Corrado owner's manual or the bentley.... and I'm not losing any oil, so the seals are fine. THanks

Stiffening up a car never hurt anything.............. Seam weld the damn things I say :D

Pages of things left to do... but on the plus side pages of things already done, and I'm not adding new things on the end of the list very often Skye

Hey Chris good to see you on the good BBS :D

Or for a cheaper cooler solution, I believe the entire oil cooling system including the sandwich plate from a Volvo 740 turbo bolts right on to any A2 (from what I've heard - going to try it soon) Skye

Check and clean the sensor and headlight ground connections perhaps? Skye

Depends what you use your car for. Superchargers give nice torque and pull at low RPMs and don't have any lag. If you spend a lot of time on race tracks or the highway maybe a turbo is for you, but it might actually feel slower driving around town. Skye