The_Dude

Do you drive with stuff in your pockets, like wallet, phone, keys etc? I find it make a big difference if I take those out. I think it cos the seats hug you so much that anything in your pockets will twist your back slightly. Apart from that I dunno, but I find the base tilt lever actually does the most for my comfort.

Hello mate, the BMC CDA (carbon dynamic airbox) is a carbon cylinder with an air filter inside. They're pretty pricey, but many people on here have them, I liked mine a lot when I had one and I think it was Stealth who got a +7hp difference after it was fitted. It makes a sweet induction noise too. You can also get a plastic version which is cheaper, think its called the DIA, there is or was one for sale in the parts section.

That looks really sweet Dave. You have a good eye for it! :salute:

its about 50-50 in responses at the moment....i'm going to risk it think, but i will be keeping a careful eye out...will let you guys know of the progress.

4wd?? more like has it got wings :lol: and Andy has mentioned on the vr6oc that he needs some more powerfull injectors as thats whats causing the car to run lean after 5400rpm :shock: its more like its a drunk who just slept with your sister then punched you in the face!

Savage!

yeah, i had a "d'oh" moment earlier. wish i'd thought of this before i sent them off. :ignore:

Custom made into a square of scrap! :D He must have been doing a decent speed to stove it in that much.

Its like this - i have no MOT and it will not pass on the standard brakes or tyres I have on now as both are worn after Snetterton and various hoonings about. I have all the parts for the 288s so they'll go on and I'll be whacking on the Speedlines for a bit as I have tyres for these as well. One of the TH Monos is in need of a refurb, so I'm sending it off and will then put the Monos back on when the refurb is done. Then I was planning on getting the Speedies sprayed....not sure what to do now.... :shrug: basically I don't want to have either of them rubbing or it'll all be a tremendous waste of cash. I work in banking and am not sure about my future so I can't spend the money on my car that I'd like just in case. It may be that I have to sell the monos and get some 16s instead. Its all a bit poop really. :D

curse, well there goes that plan... :) may be posting up asking for some cheapo 16s soon then!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm :scratch: not sure that the speedies will fit now.... Are solitudes 15 or 16?

Ooh, you're good Joe! (not in the Toad way either!)

I can't reall y add much to what has been said, but the way I've always seen it is this - FWD is more forgiving on the limit, it will more likely wash out wide with understeer, whereas RWD will try to swap ends on you, so for the more inexperienced/ cautious/ cash conscious driver FWD will be better. If you consider yourself a driving god then there is more speed to be had from RWD (iirc the btcc rwds have weight penalties to even them up) but you'll need reactions of a fly to counter snap oversteer. I reckon tho you are more likely to crash before learning how to properly powerslide round a corner. There's more scope for going faster but also the same can be said for losing it and spinning off. (says he who span off twice lol - i blame the stretched tyres i was using) If FWD was better then surely all F1 cars would have it. But it isn't and they don't.

nice one chris, couldn't remember how close it was. :salute:

Wotcher, I've just got me 288s powdercoated and am thinking of getting the wheels done as well. Now from what I can remember seeing from those that have 288s is that the clearance between the calliper and the wheel isn't much at all...could someone post a pic (as an attachment is poss, I'm at work!) so I can see how much space I have? And also any opinions on whether you think it will fit or not? Thanks muchly, 'dude.

Credit where its due man 8) After some of the Euro Cs I saw at Nurburgring this yr I think some of our German buddies are a little too exciting if you get my drift When you had the rear plate surround done did they fill/ smooth it or something? Looks great with the short plate, I may have to invest! Sorry for going OT. & yes de-wipering the rear is a doddle and looks gooood. IMO 8)[/quote:2zk55906] Yeah, I've got some excellent photos of ruined C's from Germany! BMC CDA filter, exhaust, Schimmel 263 cams for performance...

Not bad mate, looks like the right (as looked at from the back) side needs lowering a bit and both pipes properly centered in the cutouts. Good effort for home-made! :clap:

Likey. :D No likey! That just looks wrong, plus won't it make the wheel unbalanced?

Nope, but use the search mate, found this which talks about taking it apart, so you should be able to work out what's broken on yours and then head to one of the breaking threads and ask for your bit. I suspect most peeps will want to sell the unit as a whole though. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=61911&p=846282&hilit=+sunroof+repair#p846282 This subject has been covered lots, so do an advanced search in topic titles only, using '+' infront of words you want to appear eg: +sunroof +repair +mech*

No problem, only too happy to give something back for all the crap I post. :grin:

click on the link in my last post dude... :scratch:

OK, I guess I'll start the ball rolling with this simple one, which I unfortunately learned about last summer. Not my words or photos but I couldn't find the two together. I'm not sure if you actually need to do the nut on the gearbox for the left and right travel as it does the back/forward travel...can someone clarify please as I didn't bother when I did it? Gear selection linkage adjustment If you are having trouble selecting certain gears it may be that the cables to the gearbox need adjustment. Tools needed: 13mm spanner Cup of tea (optional) Backward and forward travel This is adjusted on the gearbox selector. There are two cables. An upper and a lower. The lower one is fixed and the upper one is adjusted with a 13mm spanner. Left and right travel This is adjusted at the gearstick end under the gaiter. The object of the adjustment is to get the left, right, forward and backward planes all equal in travel. A common issue is when the lever has more travel to the left, which makes engaging 5th difficult, or has more travel to the right, making 1st and reverse difficult to engage. Make sense? 9 times out of 10, the backward and forward planes are OK, but to check, just make sure you can select all the gears to start with. If you can, it's the left / right planes that need adjusting. So.... 1) Pop the shift into neutral and slacken the aforementioned 13mm nut on the top cable on the gearbox. 2) Unscrew the gearknob by twisting anti-clockwise. Remove the gaiter and surround and look at the sprung mechanism in front of the OBD port. Flick the stick left to right to see it in action. Nice.... It has a 13mm nut on it and stiff spring, it's pretty easy to spot tbh. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2 nut.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] Check you have this circlip also. lf it is missing then the lever will move to the left more than it moves the cable to the left as the plastic 'T' piece at the bottom of the lever will slip sideways on its metal pivot bar. This will result in trouble selecting first and/or second and/or reverse. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf1. circlip.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] 3) Hold the stick firmly and slacken the nut. (as the bishop said to the actress) 4) Now....this is the critical part.....you need to make sure the gear stick travel is the same in both directions (left and right). In other words, the 'daylight' gap between the moving parts should be equal at the limit of the stick's travel - on both sides. Pushing the stick right towards 5th 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf3 push right towards 5th.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] Pushing the stick left towards 1st and 2nd 4 push left towards 1st2nd.jpg[/attachment:26wh6vt8] 5) When you're happy the left and right planes are equal in travel, retighten the nut on the gear stick then retighten the nut on the gearbox. Job done. Road test and enjoy! Photos by ProdigalSon Words by pianowire Edited by The_Dude

Dunno about in the UK, but if you've got a spare 170 euro... :pale: Clicky

Sounds like its too much of fiddle for me, I get frustrated quite quickly with car jobs! Don't really have the space to do it either, my landlord/housemate is getting a bit annoyed with me leaving car parts all over the place. Its going in for an MOT soon so I'll get them to do that as well.

Hey fellas and ladies, I've got a door lying around with nothing on it that I need to completely swap over with the one on my car - ie glass, lock, trim, electrics. Is this an easy job to do or am I better off paying a garage to do it for me? (bear in mind its already been sat around for 8 months lol) What would people suggest is the best way to do it?