GazzaG60

id like to know more on this too. id like to use stand alone too so i can map it myself. anybody fancy give us the low down on whats needed to do this conversion using stand alone.

sorry bonnet and lights changed on a N chassis i believe in 92 bonnet got ready for fitting the VR under and so went up in the middle lights became less sunk in bumper. and the grill. 5 stud was a VR thing

Hi mate there are lots of other isses equally as truobling with a G60 as the charger. Ive been runnig a 65mm pulley for over 12 months no issues. things to llok out for are. bad suspension bad body. broken interior parts broken roof and spoiler. the list goes on.... Parts are costly so is better to spend a little extra on the car than have to fix up a heap of crap. mine was pretty good when i bought it but id still reckon on 500-1000 PA on parts to fix her up properly.

yep im up for any meeting type in the area. sure you could count on a few more esp those that go to tatton each year

check the throttle cable aint sticking and when warm loosens up

My supersports have failed again. this time the back im thinking Koni as a replacement. anybody care to suggest any better ideas (other than a change of car) cheers

The Clutch uses the same fluid as the brakes. The clutch can suffer sometimes this is usually the fault of the need for a bleed.slave or master cylinders. try to fix in that order. bleeding requires ideally 2 people. start at the master and then slave and repeat the process a couple of times.

do you wanna always be on boost? do you want a hissing noise when you aint. if you cant hear the boost return fit a smaller pulley. if you want noise fit a bigger exhaust, cone filter and boost return. slong with a 65mm pulley it makes a racket. a racket which im becomming tired of.

to get that you is driving well. G60 chargers are known not to be good at the quartermile. esp in the wet. id like to see the difference between yours n mine next time we meet up. i have a faily mild tune but am thinking sell or build a engine. if i build i aint sticking with the lader but im more interested in the mega traction. the talk here on the LSD n 4wd has got me thinking do i need a 4wd car or not. weather does get shitty round here though. for those that have seen mo reeves go round a track in the black golf then thats gotta be proof that 4wd isn't needed. theres a site, search for jackal forge and he straps a camera to his cateram type thingy and does track days he's raced the golf a few times n cannae catch it. let me know when you plan on a york venture n ill convoy with you. tis a good day out. id like to see you smoke a few cossies with that. sorry to be off topic

i aint trying to put you down but if this was a yank forum without a slip and a good graph they would call bullshit 13.6 seems optomistic when sds turbo g60s and lysholm mega ported cammed abas on slicks only pull the same in the dry. if PVW dont provide a proper slip then id be off to york or pod for a slip. you must be able to drive it though mate to get anywhere near that. proof is proof for the septic sceptics like me :) congrats. it obviously goes very well. job well done.

Think its time to produce some power graphs and Quarter mile slips if you gonna boast about 260hp and 13.6 ET Henny :wink: back on topic Whos done it. What are we looking at part wise and costs. is the Gearbox the hard bit to find? Whats the difference to insurance premiums if you tell them (which im sure we all do). Given that we live in england and i live just outside manchester it rains around 250 days per year. it may well be worth it. Im thinking about selling the C otherwise as this place is stacked with Subs and most are over 300hp. given a dry day they are on catch-up but otherwise im on a loser everytime.

firstly change the blue temp switch for a new one The probe o2/lambda whatever you wanna call it has 3 wires coming from it. 2 heat, 1 signal. It connects to the harness via a 4 pin plug which has a ground built in that fits to the engine mount. the wires around here go very brittle with heat over time. so much so that they can snap fairly easily. poor engine mounts make this worse. look very carefully at the plug and wiring on the loom side. waggle the wires. if any feel broken or break then fix them up. Get a AF gauge. this will tell you more about whats going on not only with the probe functionality but also the idle and WOT switches along with the warmup switch over point to working on the probe for partial. once option is to splice in a second earth which is what i have as the PO made a complete balls of looking after this side of the car. i have a second earth to the battery and also the ground for may AF gauge to the battery as the gauge is supposed t tell you what the car is doing poor grounds really drag a G60 back.

check for bad wiring before getting the probe. do a gropund check and a waggle test at the plug as this is where the problems start. Probes are tough wiring aint

good figures. poorly displayed graph with seperate sheets. Take my hat off to you. shows you can tune um. Was pretty quick with the PO so must be good now.

Sorry guys the sceptic i am must call BS on the power figure unless proven with a graph. 226 hp must be around 250 flywheel.

i think the RCs that i have are of a similar weight to the standard bbs rims.

does it feel much different to when the old ones were in but not broken? id have thought it would have been a step 1 mod if it made much difference.

yep i know which bit you mean now. they ait like a scooby one. has anybody ever changed them on a C?

im corrected. not a drop link like a sub though. the sub ones are plastic as standard and are replaced with metal ones with poly bushes. im not aware of uprated links for a corrado. maybe they dont have the same effect on a C to a sub n thats why i presumed we dont have um. silly q but what do they look like on a corrado, where do they attach etc

no need for them on Corrado. the scooby setup is different and uses a link between the roll bar and subframe (i think). It helps stability and reduces understeer. whiteline are one the better types.

Ive hasd this problem. i think. its to do with the ground on the O2 probe. Does it stall v easily in reverse?

SNS write the chips to suit certain applications. its not a 1 chip fits all its a many chips fit all type of thing. the first chip is usually is sent by sns to suit your application. it will morte than likely need tayloring to suit you needs better ie itll probly be slightly rich to start as thats the best starting place. you dont wanna go lean. Im not sure if they do a standard application chip yet as the question must be raised as to whether or not its needed as vw didn't do a bad job. the advantages would be some extra timing and the no-lag code id expect. this may give you a few hp but nothing special. Our engine isn't too good at flow so boost is required really to pep performance really. speak to bilal at sns he will be able to recommend the best way forward. i think once you have driven a G60 with chip and pulley you wouldn't wanna go back to standard.

not bad. im afan of bigger wheels myself and not a fan of red. opinions are opinions. thats fair enough but theres a big difference between negative critisism and constructive. nice car mate none the less. good luck to you with the bills.

ive had similar issues. i think the idle issue you have is related too. Its to do with the ground for the O2 probe. It may look ok but the slightest deterioration causes issues. i have wired additional earth in to this. if i unplug it i get bad idle and chugging. disconnect the probe at the harness on top of the engine mount. start the car take it for a drive. if its ok then its O2 related.

dont be too trusting of the MFA computer. it does tell lies esp if you have a none standard configuration. the chargers are pretty sturdy if lokked after properly. replace the charger timing belt as a precautionary measure. dont over rev the charger. this has a bad effect on oil seals in the charger. i go 6000 with the 65mm pulley tops. as jim says dont screw it from cold. the oil pressure when cold is around 80psi and the charger doesn't want to feel this pain. r u hitting the rev limiter? if so dont rev it so high. the charger wont ike you hitting the rev limiter. if its a sudden cut in power maybe timing is being pulled or the map isn't quite right. get an air/fuel gauge and a boost gauge if you havent got them already. they can help diagnose problems pretty well as for fuel. the AF gauge will help you work out if 1. O2 probe is functioning 2. idle/WOT swithc is working properly. 3. warm-up time before full O2 system funtionality (blue CTS)