GazzaG60

0.4 bar sensor. its the one that measures for at idle.

i run a 65mm,red tops and a fpr from bilal. He's the UK SNS geezer. top bloke. great service it really needs setting up on the rollers ans the fueling may not be quite right. this can then be altered easily by bilal if a AF printout is provided. i put my pulley on at around 15-20k on the charger. before then it was standard. i put a further 10k on it before rebuild and have just run it in. im about to fit the 65mm and rechip again. maybe have the charger inspected. im a fan of red tops for a few reasons. 1. they can supply the extra fuel that may be necessary. 2. the replace old injectors that may not be up to supplying what you need. its always best to know you have a good set of injectors. if you are ok with things then fitting the reds, chip, fpr and pulley will be quite easy. Its once this is fitted when you need to take care. if you have access to a wideband setup then you are ok as you can check the AF. if its recordable then you can send the log to bilal to help him. checking the charger needs somebody who knows what to look for to do it. it may be better to get GWerks or pitstop to do the lot for you then you know its right. id also fit before i upgrade 1. boost gauge. so you know whats happening. good for spotting weak charger, boost leaks etc. 2. AF gauge. so you can see the general operation of AF along with idle/wot swithc operation, warmup issues, probe issues.

id get the proting done before upping ther internal pressurs on the charger my 2p

Golf has much bigger rad IIRC i cobbled together my kit for less than half of that asking price.

im sorry but if you need instructions for fitting a kit. get sombody else to do it cos you aint got whats needed. thers alot more to turbocharging a engine than bolting on a few bits.

yes yuo wanna wind so timing in. be very careful tyhough and listen for Det. when you hear then retard a little. In all honesty it aint the best time for throwing in timing as its at peak temperature about now. wind it in in october and retard again for summer.

sounds like its going through warm up procedure then going for lamda correction and failing due to a bad probe, wiring etc.

Well finally after a long wait for the rebuild kit(thanks steve) the charger got built. according to jabbas marks from the last time they did it it was march 2001so its been just over 3 yrs since the last one. The charger has been on a 65mm pulley for 12 months. and covered a total of 36000 miles in that rebuild span. wear levels were minimal since the last time. at least one oil seal was seeping but the displacer etc was ok. there were signs of repair work to the scroll and a reminder on the case of how things can go bad. ive done 100 miles on it so far and its good. very quiet either the new bearings or the std pulley responsable for that. probly both. Big shout to Gavin for the job. cheers mate. id have a go myself next time but i wanted somebody who'd seen damage to look in there n give it the once over. Thanks to Darren for answering the bearing question at 11pm. it took around 5 hours in total, from stripping it down to turning the key again.

i think id have to see a dyno with and without the toothed. Henny has had his engine built and the charger and a FMIC and other bits and bobs too. lets PROVE the gain rather than CLAIM them.

porting provides more flow. more air for any given amount of boost. flow is more important than boost more air more fuel more power. if you port the head you will see a drop in boost. thats because the passages are bigger so take more to fill. boost is just pressure. youll get more power but less boost.

the charger inlet may have some oil in there where its been returned. this may be due to an oil seal in the charger going and passing it straight back to the charger. as you look down on the charger the res box is on the right attached to the charger. remove this and look inside the charger. thats were the carnage may be.

right you may have a blown charger you may not. lets not fear the worst just yet. like henny says replace the fuel filter. this is located under the car drivers side just to the front of the rear wheel. tis a cylinder bout 6 inches long. now for the charger stuff. take of the black resonator box attached to the freont of the charger. it fastens to the charger with 1 bolt but you gotta get inside the box first. with this removed shine a torch into the charger and look for bits of metal and strips that are seals. they may have popped out and jammed or something (not good) best to do this before you drive it anymore. engine noises. it could be a bad tappet or dodgy rod bearings or maybe a pump such as water or PAS has gone bad.

not sure which wire you mean but it may be a heat wire. the probe is 4 wire signal ground 2 power for heat circuit. if one brakes the car will only run properly under fairly hard runnig when the probe can heat itself with gas temperature.

get a decent chip Go SNS. Who knows what goes into some of these chips on E-bay, if anything. If you do get a cheapo chip then be sure to get a dyno wideband session booked too.

my mates own Jap-innovations in oldham. the sad thing about them, STi included is that the are prone to det and being mapped for jap fuel anything over 5k produces det unless octane boosted. the number of Sti and WRX (classic shape) ive seen habing the engine replaced is shocking. the way they are driven doesnt help. nothing is forged in there, no piston squirters nothing.

the 22b uses a closed deck 2.2 l block which is from a legacy. the legacy was a non intercooled turbo model. the block is made from better alloy and so is less prone to breaking. the heads are EJ20. it uses a slightly smaller turbo than a STi. tyhink its 1 VF size down. power isn't massive at 280hp but itss still see off any corrado unless seriously tuned as will most imprezas . after all a pipe and a fiter take a UK to 250-260hp. they dont make 320 hp from the factory. problem with thge 22b is the suspension setup is a tad hard for the penine runs. its bounces aropund all over the place. the closed deck is the key to the power potential as the standard engines suffer from crank and cylinder ovaling issues when pushed very hard. gearbox is by far the weakest part of the scooby setup though

get aproper gauge in so you can see where pressure flattens out. this may indicate a boost leak as it should boost more and more as you rev.

get the ECU hose from the dealer. its 1m as you said but the hose needs to be of a certain type for best results. best thing to do is fir 2 gauges, boost and AF. from there you can get an idea what the charger is putting out, boost leak, o2 system function, WOT, idle etc. gauges cost around 30 quide each then theres fitting them somewhere. try bilal(dubcharged) for a AF gauge try vwspeedshop.co.uk for a boost gauge( or bothe AF and boost). check the hoses down to the intercooler for holes on the square sections.

that blue temp switch aint doing anything with the probe unplugged. the car is running of the ECU map all the time. it feels good but it still isn't runnig right. itll be rich now. next steps connect probe up with new blue switch-is it ok? put in a AF gauge. does it cycle when warm(go from rich to lean over and over again) if not new probe time(or wiring). check the harness which connects to the o2 probe. should be a 4 wire jobbie with one wire going to the engine mount braket that its fitted to. any of these wires go bad, usually ECU side of the connector too as its warm down there. check the purple/pink/lavender colour wire, thats signal and the black/brown one which is earth. the probe wont work properly if these 2 wires are even slightly damaged. if they are good- new probe. any 3 wire probe will work as its just a volt detector that sends a signal back to ECU. i used a universal one before. pay the extra and get a o2 from the stealer with the wires and plug on it. its one less set of wires to worry about then.

but if your belt doesn't slip then what benefits are there? in answer to your question GsixT ive done around 15k on the 65mm. over the last few weeks its started to smoke a little when on boost so i expect a seal is gone. its done around 40k since its last build. its still making 15psi now so... i like extracting power from the low revs as the engine aint no good at high revs anyway. sometiems its amazing how much that extra low down helps when taking on faster cars esp turbos.

unplug the o2 probe at the harness on the engine mount and give it a go. itll point to a o2 system issue if it runs right. tis like taping uo the WOT switch.

well i tried another ISV and it didn't solve it. so i did further testing and have found that my O2 system aint working properly. when i run without the probe its fine. funny one this it runs fine other than at like 1000rpm or when on brakes to come to a stop. o2 cycles goes WOT goes to idle swithc too. anybody suffered like tis before. gotta be wiring but where?

id have to say its that they build more fast cars than us esp VRs. the VR turbo is a less exotic concept in the states.

Have you got your autrader ad ready. its gonna rain :wink:

plugs dont have to be plats. when i got my car it didn't have plats in and run fine. it made no difference when i put the proper ones in. Sam at SNS in nthe states uses cheap copper items and gaps them. tis all in the gapping.