GazzaG60

flat 4s do wobble. a set of bad engine mounts on a scoob soon makes you feel sick

that mk3 eh Gav. bet u wish u aint bought it now. Awesome are good. never had the car done there but.... Depending where you are in manchester. Boardmans may be able to help. theyre in newton heath. you could pop along to the next warrington ClubGTi meet. Gavin will be there id expect and i may turn up myself too. we may be able to shed some light on it for you.

the engine is a flat 4. cant imagine a flat 5 would work. it is quite a small engine. some are quad cam other not. all turbos are quad. the problem with um is the work needed to do jobs. rod bearings for example. withc a vw you do um thru the bottom. the impreza engine block splits in 2 thers no other way of getting in. there are plenty need new engines due to either wear and not being able to do jobs easy(the engine needs to be lifted to remove heads remember) one of the biggest issues is people not doing cam belts properly causing the cranks to go wrong. killing it. 2.5 is not a bad thing but the block cant really do what a EJ20 can. they dont rev the same after. legacy heads flow better than impreza ones but need rebuilding as they rattle. the legacy block is also closed deck too

if it whistles as the pressure builds up you probly got a boost leak. it will whisly on throttle close as the air rushes back through the charger and out of the filter. a cone makes this louder. soundsa like the pipe aint fixed right. mine never moves. check yer engine mounts to make sure they are ok. you dont want a broken pipe now.

The CO_potentiometer is mounted on top of the boost hose before the throttle body. its the black block type thing with a wire coming out. this is how you adjust the fueling. A wideband is a system that tells you the air to fuel ratio. its called wideband due to the fact that it covers a wide range of ratios. Red tops are bigger injectors than standard. First you need to find the cause of the problem. is it just running rich or is something causing to run rich like a bad o2 probe or wiring or blue temp sensor or... first check the ohm on the CO_pot. get a multimeter and test ping 1 and 3 set on 2kohm. A AF gauge will give you a good idea of if O2(and other things) is working or not. if not get a multimeter and test for a fluctuating voltage on the purple(after o2 sensor plug) or black(before plug) wire. this is the wire that tells the ECU whats-what and the ECU corrects the fueling to attain 14.5:1 for off boost activities. from what ive seen when the probe does itll give no reading back. this makes the ECU thinks its running lean, it then throws more fuel in and so runs rich coughs out black and chuggs.

the mfa wont be accurate as its used to calculating at a given rate for a standard car. 17mpg is too low. check yer plugs to confim richness. adjust the co-pot if necessary using a wideband to confirm. my red tops and 65mm return around 27mpg on a cruise so.... do you get good cycle on the AF gauge. gotta prove that your o2 system is working properly. Gs run lean on partial and rich on throttle so...

more commonly known as CO_pot trims fuel in accordance with the settings given. kind of mixture screw.

does the 16v have a probe already? if so tap into that.

350ohm is on the rich side. im running red tops so...anyway im set at about 800ohm at the moment. id buy a proper reg so that u always got the std one for spare. theyre only cheap about 35 i think from bilal. speak to him. tell nim the code on top of your chip then he can tell you what setup you should be running for that chip and maybe a alternative chip.

yeh put a piece of wood along the sump so weight is spread. i think it i took the rad out so that it was easy access.

i had these same issues with my first sns with the 65. what i would say is this get a 3.5bar. i thought all sns use 3.5 make sure it aint over fueling. whats the co_pot set to. make sure the o2 probe is good and working. mine did same. it would buck about the shoot off. i found if i eased in the power it was better. check the plugs. if they are black then its too rich. give um a clean with brake cleaner and a brush so they shine again. if they aint proper ones put some in.

im not sure on part no's. go to summit racing as gavin suggests. thats were they come from. not sure. my charger is due a rebuild not im sure but when i first fitted it it was making 17psi peak with the front mount. i never used it on the standard cooler. i uprated the usuals, exhaust, filter, charger to stage 4, intercooler to frontmount, fixed any issues with sensors etc. before i went to SNS and 65mm. it still magnified the underlying issues that i still had. id say firstly its charger dependent. there will be people who make more boost than i do with a 68. what i wanted was lots of low down and not to run out of fuel. id say i made around 10psi by 2-2500rpm. it holds pretty static and then moves up as you go up the revs to 17 or so. depending on ambient air too. it pegged out on 20psi a couple of times when i first fitted. always seemed to be in first or second gear too. usually see the peak boost in 4th or so. its not popped yet. i reckon the block could handle probly the equiv of 25psi from a Glader. theres peeps doing 20 with a turbo and thats more volume of air i could go on forever about findings but i wont

id go reds min. the greys aren't as big as reds i believe. go even bigger maybe if SNS has sorted the mapping for 42#? depends what you are planning. if its a 16v turbo then id go 42 see bilal. he can sort you the complete pack-injectors, chip, pulley(if you want a smaller one)FPR and proper after sales support.

ask sam from SNS about NOS on a G60. unless you is uprating some tranny parts a 75 may rip it to bits. sams 40hp shot gave him over 300lbsft. im thinking bout it too. easy was to get a bit more from that poor counter flow 8v

ive been running EBC turbo groove discs for about 2 yrs just about to replace them. they have been good and took all the leaning on that the hills around me need. green stuff kill discs-retain too much heat. killed 2 sets of std ones for me. im running crap 8 quid ECP ones now and they are ok for 8 qiud.

a std uk scoobie is a good one. the weak bit is the box. a sti has abetter box but the engines have been hammered or not set up right so the det loads. a uk spec is good for a easy 350hp and not too many standard ones about. i say a std vr v a scoob would be a close run thing with the vr winning in a straight line. but a corner in the racecourse and the scoob wins. put a pipe with no cats and a filter on the scoob and the vr aint winning. with a boost controller,MRT/Blitz FCD and AFR too your looking at 320 at 1.3 bar on a pre 97uk. they run TD05 whereas the later ones are TD04s. the 4 is front entry so..these get replaced with vfs and do better torque and power at around 1.1bar both good cars in own right. for class and a cruise id pick the vr but if i was to pick a race weapon, which is what the post is about it would be the scoob

the standards are green think they are around 260cc The usual upgrades are to reds these are i think in cc, 310 Youll need a chip to run the reds. and lots of boost to make um worthwhile. i went reds for 2 reasons. 1. i wanted to run a 65mm with good boost. 2. my injectors like most are around 11 yrs old, must be past their best and mine was starting to run lean up top which it hadn't done before. i presumed a injector or 2 was starting to run weak. i could be wrong it could have been the regulator, vac etc. SNS are the boys on this speak to bilal. some say its bad to run um without enough boost, itll run rich but i cant see why not. its in the mapping. if a scoobie can run 440cc standard for 208hp then im sure a 310cc injector can be mapped cleanly for 180-200 or even standard

ive been running my Aiwa MP3 for around 3 yrs now. it was one of the first available along with a JVC and a Denon. I paid 300 for it then. you can get um for around a 100 but quality, im not sure. my mate has a clarion cost about 310 and is a good bit of kit.

Nigel-get a good earth, double up on it for testing see if it sorts itself. earth is the baddie in that one. wideband is great. i agree with exturbo in that the AF is better for fault finding that showing true readings. it shows stoich rather well though. on the wideband. get the NGK probe over the bosch. NGK does 8:1 whereas Bosch does 10:1

it depends on cooling too. A turbo will be hotter than the G lader so a front mount maybe better. get a good front engine mount. Id say just over a bar too. turbos usually generate more power than the G at any given boost level.

red can be either very good or just plain awful. all depends on how well its been looked after, that its not pink and that its all the same colour of red. remember looking at a scoobie about 3 yrs ago and it looked great. we went to the petrol styation and under the lights it looked or was should i say about 4 different colours nand the touch up was a different shad again. id like a UR quattro in red

so thats the solution syncro box, propshaft, big fuck off E90 or whatever it is in the boot. = shit loads of air

i think you could do a lot worse than getting a G60 with a bummed charger or engine and swapping in a 16v with turbo and speaking to bilal. not as easy as written but id say you could do that for around 4k if the car cost 1k. a good G60 would cost that and the 16v turbo would leave a well tuned G60 for dead. IMO the 16v is a far superior engine to the 1.8 8v of the G60 it just lacks forced induction to make the power. tis all about flow. a hybrid corrado. best of all worlds.

can they supply enough air without efficiency levels dropping? they seem to go for cheap money whereas the stuff the yanks use for good power at revs seem to be more expensive. forgive my lack of naming on this as theres no point getting it wrong and confusing people. the one that catches my eye is the BBM twin screw as used by some of the vortex lads. noisy but great power delivery with better reliability.

thing with it is that the cars are always compared from standard which would make the VR a better machine but theres not many standard G60's about is there. i think the G60 gets heavily underestimated by those who are yet to take one on. as steve says, depends what your after.