GazzaG60

im on a SNS chip, 65mm, 30# injectors and a FPR. Its pretty strong. i got a new chip thru this morning so gonna try that at weekend. I must stress that really you need to get it set up properly on a RR as the chip is obviously generic for the mods done. the chip is written on the rich side and quite rightly so as the more powerful of us may have leaning issues if they were not as every car is different esp when lots are over 100k. If you have wideband then you can configure yourself which is what i do but once im happy ill hit the rollers too for a final once over. Customer service was always renouned for being good in the states where i first read about SNS and the same goes for bilal over here.

The o2 sensor acts like a battery. it feed V back to the ECU dependent on the gases produced. the ECU then corrects the fueling as needed. this shows as a cycle on the AF gauge. Id disconnect the battery. im not aware of a reset. if it chuggs a bit and runs rich then there probly is a issue with the O2 system.

thats a forum members car. think from leeds. It was at inters in the camp site too. Think is on a private plate. I went to GTI at york. Its a bit of a mixed make event really. I think the problem is its too close to 10 of the best to get all the good runners to show.

Just a note to people considering. I bought mine around 11 months ago. a month ago i sent back my 2 front units as they were both leaking lots of oil. supersport say that the pistons are marked and warranty is void. now i know they didn't leak for around 4 months. surely they would leak from day 1 with piston marks. i cannot lay fault with anyone as im not sure how the marks came about or if they are to blame. they say the pistons have been gripped and marked. i am not a happy chap and have nowhere to run on this one other than to the bank to buy 2 mew shocks for the kit as they wont fit new pistons. Looks like im gonna have to fork out for the 2 shocks and feel really stung. ANyone else with similar experiences of this sort of problem. My conclusion is dont count on any warranty being good. i did however have no probles with supersprint on my old pipe so....

the best garage is your own garage. nobody treats your car as well as yourself.

would you hammer you 100,000,00000,000000000 pride and joy. think it would be a 30mph machine for me and hammer the C. takes big bollocks to hit the limiter in 100k i expect.

honda killed the CRX on with that del sol thing. upto a J plate n its a goodun

the newer CRX aint that good. its v "gayboy". the old,old CRX was a 1.5 i believe and not that great (£400 car) it ran till about E plate. the older more teatdrop shape car is a good one if a little dated. at 130hp the non vtec versin is a good car. its really only a 2 seater. the back seat is a bench with headroom for a midget. if its a perfo9rmance thing, a G plate non vtec will see of a 16v corrado and probly stick with a G60. its a revver. my mate has a non vtec and has had it for around 5 years and had no problems-cheap motoring. i believe the vtec version is even better with 150 or 155 hp im not sure. thats as quick if not quicker than a G60. not really the same sort of car as a corrado. the c is much heavier and has a engine of totally different design. im not aware of a corrado thatll rev 8k with no issues. if you want bland speed with reliability go CRX (old) vtec a bonus. if you want style with german build and bigger bills get a corrado. think you'd be happy with either. A turbo CRX is a flyer. it takes a little bit of work but its 300WHP no probs if done right. im told the injectors on the B?whatever they call it engine run 100% duty so that would have to be addressed straight away but the engine design and flowrate leave a VW for dead. now a Vtec in a corrado........

tis only about noise really. i agree on the power gain side. ITs good over a std filter but a proper panel. nothing in it really. with a proper heat shield its ok though. get the carbon can out and put sume ducting in or move the filter. the intake on a G60 starts after the charger really but i understand what you mean about a NA car although its minimal. intake manifold design affects torque levels much more than the pipe leading to the TB as far as dust and stuff goes. with a proper heat shield its not getting any from the engine and at least you can see it straight away. at the end of the day its each to their own init.

Why is a induction kit not good for a charger or at least the same as a panel. Tis made of same material. If its the "itll suck thru" line then ive nedver had this problem andhave used filters ranging from 20 quid upwards.

tis a good seat. looks wise it aint a recaro but its comfy. im on leather which may or may not be better than cloth. the best ones ive had were scirocco storm i reckon for comfort

i thought the general problem was that you couldn't get a pod for a RHD car. LHD Corrado pods have been available from gaugepods for years

no a G60 holda power till around 5500 on a std head and cam. its more urgent than a diesel too. sandy you would be suprised on the up to 70 i think. it wont pull like 10 cars or somthing but id say a car or so. remember its 2 gearchanges to a vr's 1.i too run mods so you aint on your own. not sure what you run but im on 65mm fmic no cats etc n thats the way it is.

G60 ratios are poor. if you hittin 60 in second then you are revving the balls outa that charger unless your box has been altered. 50 is about gear change point in a G60. you dont make power up there anyway. yuo can make 10psi by 2.5k so may as well go third. I would like to be able to hit 60 in second. 1st second and third vr gears id like. or first n second at least. try taking a vr on from a standing start. youll see what i mean. they leave you to about 70. tis all in the gearing.

you got the exhaust so no need for that. the std pipe is heavy but in all honesty its quite good power wise n the SS dont make too much difference. I d start by trying to get it running properly. Fit a AF gauge. this will give you good ideas on the following o2 probe/system operation WOT/idle switch operation. Blue temp sensor operation rough idea of fueling state at WOT Boost gauge will give you a good idea of the chargers state of condition. a good charger will give more boost that a poor or deteriorating charger. expect 9-11psi from a good one. maybe point out a boost leak too. check intercooler for holes and boost tubes and hoses esp around battery. still if the charger hasn't been rebuilt recently then get it checked over at least. Front engine mount-start car put in gear n lift clutch with hand brake on. get a mate to watch the engine for lots of movement. if theres more than you would expect then replace the mount. get a uprated one so that it lasts longer than 12 months. vibratecnics and volkspeed(maybe still) do good ones over here. usuals-plugs(proper bosch W6dpo), leads,dizzy cap, rotor arm, oil, filter(VW only) what i found is that when you make upgrade changes the issues that are underlying are magnified greatly so some things that you dismissed before may reer their ugly heads. for upgrades the most easy route is a chip and pulley. this makes the charger spin faster producing more airflow meaning more boost. the chip makes the ECU able to run under these more extreme conditions. problem is the std intercooler is a tad pants. its in the wing under the battery and v small. fitting a front mount aint easy but well worth it. i went for bigger injectors too as im on a smaller pulley at 65mm so it produces boost that can outgun the std injectors but im told in most cases(and probly mine still really) the std ones are up to it. the air filter one is quite a big debate. i think it is now taken that the best way is to put a large filter in the inner wing where the carbon can used to be, or still will be in your case. this aint the easiest way though. induction vs air box and panel id expect that the airbox is better for power. id disagree but i run a v larger shield round mine thats up to the bonnet and straight across the air box area so not much heat gets there. the induction kit is a mare in summer as it gets heatsoaked v quick and power is gone. induction kit sound is 100000000000000000 times better than a box though. probly gone on with myself loads ther but hope it helps. give me something to do for the past 10 mins anyway.

The G60 deff needs the first second n third from a VR. i took a vr on a couple of weeks ago. he started to pull from me in first n second and then i passed him in third/low 4th. seem a v good set of cogs in a VR

try unplugging the 02 sensor. tis a 4 wire(usually( plug below the clutch master cylinder on drivers side. it attaches to the engine mount. be careful. grap the plug not the wires and unplug it. go drive it. it souold run fine but rich. see if you still have the problem. lots run like this(unplugged)i have and so have lots of vortexers. previous owner or exhaust makers left mine unplugged when i got car. i run for a year or so at least without knowing it was even unplugged. if it runs fine. theres a issue with the o2 system.

strange. sounds like a servere case of digilag but i cant see why it would chug. sometimes you can feel a slight holdback but. get a AF gauge in there. may give a idea. usually they chug on partial when there is a o2/blue temp issue. ive had this on mine but at WOT? not sure here. what the ECU to TB vac line like? whats the plugs n leads n that like. havve u changed um

you wont have issues with boost hoses unless its a non standard Intercooler deff take the vibra mount with you. check the piping on std intercooler for damage. look down to the left of the battery on the square sections for holes. other than that its ok. you'd have to get the piping made custom as the aftermarket set from eurosport dont fit. a AF gauge reads the signal from the o2 sensor in the exhaust thus telling you roughly how the car is working ie correct o2 operation and correct idle and WOT switch operation, rough idea on WOT fueling issues. Digi-lag is something that you can read about in other threads but in brief it is a fix to the standard chip by SNS. when you are driving at partial throttle the o2 sensor feeds info to the brain that is then correcting the fuel to keep it running at stoich for economy. when you go WOT(wide open throttle) the std chip taskes a few seconds to react to the changes in boost before it matches the fueling up. this is digi-lag, a lean spike that becomes more pronounced with more boost. you can see it easy on a AF gauge. check the SNS websire or drop bilal a line about these chips.

they are 4x100 as per golf 2 think after 90 the golf and c steering wheel fitmet is same. not 100% on it though 220 is a lot. look at what size pulley it has on. that helps you with a guide on service intervals. i had my charger done by jabba nearly 3 yrs ago. its making 16-17psi at the moment on a 65 wheni can keep the boost hose on. :x probly ready for another set of bearings n strips now to be on safe side. id get it rolling rd tuned/tested if i were you. just to make sure its ok. get a boost and AF gauge if it dont have um. that car isn't std so you need to know wats going on. ask questions if you like lots can answer on it. if its on a jabba chip id go SNS for the no-lag. a 220hp corrado(inocent until proven otherwise on power claim)will be making lots of boost for 220 id expect so itl make loads low down too. having digi-lag aint safe with lots of boost. taking it to 6k is safe on the smaller pulleys no more really though. what youll find is the power starts to drop away before 6k anyway. check the front engine mount on it.wont be healthy or will be a upgraded one if its got lots o power start it put it in gear with h-brake n lift clutch slowly. the engine will move lots if the mount is shagged, which it probly is. get a mate to watch it while you do that. the mount is down the front near the oil filter. back on the power issue id say if the intercooler is standard then the car aint doing 220hp

depends on whether its 220 at the wheels or crank. 220 is on the high side i think with a good charger,cam,port chip, FMIC and a cat removed system it is possible. from what ive seen G60 engines are crap on the rollers. they give poor power, maybe due to the boost rewturn. on the road however they go well through the mid range. chargers these days aren't nowhere near as bad as what they get slagged off for. and the peeps slagging usually dont own them. i have raced a few 220--230hp cars and they havent really gone anywhere, some ive beaten. . problem is keeping the boost hoses on.

taking the boost return off will have a few helpful outcomes. 1. the hot boosted air wont be returned to the charger. this causes a warmup cycle. i have found this to be a lot more noticable with the 65mm pulley on. on a std car i cant see it having much impact until total heatsoak is reached n at those levels the intercooler is by far the weakest link. having said that the charger does feed the coolers so a cooler charger should mean a cooler IC. 2. the fitment of a filter or catch can is necessary. this will help conbustion but to what extent its hard to say but higher boost levels again will probly benefit from no oil in the air. 3. the ISV needs to be rerouted or a filter fitted to the end. probly a good time to fit a checkvalve or the reroute to intake. 4. charger needs to be blocked off or a second air feed added. there are a few opinions on this. balancing internal pressures is my main concern although when on full throttle the bypass is inactive so pressures are not even from both sides in a normal setup although the breather is always active so no vac is present on that side of charger with the boost return fitted. take yer pick really as the yanks have both systems in use over there and i am yet to rwad of a charger that has blown due to uneven pressures at the inlet. 5. oil line. the std position for the line is clipped under the boost return. needs refixing or rerouting depending if you are fussy about looks. 6. noise will increase. to what extent will depend on boost levels. a dump valve can now be fitted to the bottom of boost return if wanted. this will change the power delivery to being a on/off switch type delivery. i have heard that this can cause unwanted pressure back on the charger. if the dump valve fails to release then i wouldn't wanna handle repercussions. i am still thinking about doing this though. i am gonna remove my boost return at some point. not sure when yet.

depends what you wanna spend really and what you can source bits for. i used a factory u-bend 600x150x45 IC and pipework n it cost me 200 all in.

i run a 65mm with red tops and SNS and a frontmount. i have a 2.25" straight thru with no cat and a induction kit. the tone has changed on the charger. the gearing is ther same so speeds are but it accels a lot quicker now. i had a test last night. me and a mate were going to a friends house. he was following me when i came upon a mk4 Gti. anyway blew him off without any hassle. the difference was so much he gave up at 60. anyway we carried on as before the tune his car was faster than mine. he has a legacy turbo running no cats and 3" straight thru with induction kit doing about 13psi, probly 220-240hp. coming off a roundabout i hit the throttle n started to pull away. not a lot but it was pulling. hit 4th n at about 4.5k it went BOOM like a balloon n i lost lots o power. he shot up behind me v quickly, id popped a boost hose off. now itll hold 16psi in third so not sure what boost i get in 4th maybe another psi or 2. enough to loose a hose. think its time for a cam and some better brakes.

hows about some of those bearings for the G60 i dont wanna rev to 8k but a mid 50's pulley on good bearings is up my street.