yeti

look at zak's gallery on here, he had the same size on his and it sat just right. Loads of brake clearace too for future upgrades!

lol! - hassle? i just take mine to the tip an put it in the big engine oil container... how much does a garage charge for an oil change? Jon... i've got a vr6 spare?

I foolishly thought that spot drilling and grinding all the old welds would be a reasonably straight forward job, which it is its just soooo time consuming... Theres easily 10hrs work getting this floor to look like this now with all the careful scraping/cleaning/drilling/chisseling 95% are the flanges are still good with only a few areas of corrosion and the spots drilled from the sacrificial panels that were thrown away Spent a few hours scraping the undersela off today and thats as far as i've got.... not very far! :( I've decided i value my free time though so will be speaking to the bloke who dipped the passat's wheels for me about dipping this floor next week as that'll hapily remove all this underseal without cutting the hell out of my hands anymore and will be fairly painless. - scrapings the only way if on a running assembled vehicle but seeing as i can throw it in the tank, why not!?

if any non asians have watched goodness gracious me years ago.. theat means pants right?

v good on my passat for a comfortable ride - not as tight as the wietec ones i have on the corrado, better suited for a more comfy ride than handling - has made the passat handle better but it wasnt hard! Also worth mentioning after about 20k in less than a year these have got even softer and now tend to bounce a little. I've keep saving a spend a little more on some witec hicon gt's - i did

thats right mate, but you will need to fit the r32 abs/esp unit and the mk4 mastercylinder (and therefore the mk4 servo) its all worth it though :) yep - all in the loft/garage waiting for me to finish the bloody floor!

dont know of any wheel refurb places local but this place is pretty local to you and they should know of somewhere that could do it http://www.midlandwheels.com/

bargain! i've been quoted almost £1100 for them new

any wheel refurbishing place with a lathe big enough woulod be able to do it easily

contact rob or darren at gwerks. v helpful and i'm sure they could send stuff overseas. If they cant direct then i'd be happy to send it on indirectly for you if you were to buy from them as i will be ordering some mk3 syncro kw v2's from them soon and dont mind taking to a courier?

when i asked my local mot tester this question he said that they test the oldest part of the vehicle not the newest essentially, so despite the fact the engine has been replaced the car is still a 94 vr (like mine) and needs to technically have a cat present... depending how friendly he is you may not :wink:

r32 + cams + induction kit + remap = racecar noise :D thats what motivated me to do it, its different to a vr but its still growly and is not necessarily cheaper than a supercharger converison cos this all depends how much work you'll do yourself and where the parts are got from

i'd really save the bother of doing the ring around mate and call martin (martinb on here) at HIC insurance, they are a broker who specialise in modified cars and he until recently owned a very nice modified nugget Corrado and always tries to find you the best deal. Also brentacre and a few others have been mentioned on here VR6 - most need rebuild/chains/clutch/ancilleries changed before increasing the power and that can be easily over £1k so decided seeign as things were not as i'd like them - bit old a crusty for my liking i'd strip it out and then go from a v useful 200bhp fwd car to a newer quicker engine as standard that'll be easily over 300+ bhp n/a and 4wd when i've completed stage one (and if its what i want in a car i'll considder stage 2! :nuts: )

Buy a vr - never had a 16v corrado but had/have a 2.0 8v mk3 and have driven 2.0 16v mk3's and i would pick the noise of the vr everytime. If using it alot - 40ish mile commute for example then i'd get 27-30mpg, town... 21 I bought my vr at 20/21 and pretty sure i was paying about £2500 f/c for 5000 miles a year no mods in a rural village but i'd had an accident a little over a year previous that cost the insurance company £1k to fix the other blokes car so as long as you have a clean license and some ncb then a vr wont be too bad to insure

yep the dutch stuff seems to be cheapest, but the price i managed to get my complete (brakes/bearings/bushes/handbrake cables etc) was worth just biting the bullet and going for it when yo look at the price of vw stuff. i think coxy's done a dam good job of showing you dont need to use the rear floor 8) well a really good contact i found by chance is a v helpful bloke called patrick (sparkz on ukpassats forum) who works with ns racing over here who ship parts regulaly between here and holland and said he could easily source a full mk3 vr6 syncro rear end and get it over to swap with my complete mk2 syncro stuff. but i'd just bought the mk3 arms so i didnt need this anymore. from all the research i have done i've found that the central frame seems to be the same for the mk2 mk3 and passat/quantam syncros but with different rear 'doughnut' mounts and wider tracked trailing arms for the mk3 and passats. These wider trailing arms however bolt straight onto the mk2 syncro / rallye frame o just re reading your post do you mean mk4 rear end? - i have all this spare as i had this idea as well but decided on the more oem approach. I have the rear subframe/arms/hubs spare. I am using the haldex diff and rear callipers but is this the route you were looking to take? o and as for the haldex controller i'm really not at that stage yet. Still at the ripping out / weldign in rear floor staghe but i will then be rewiring the C as a mk4 r32 so this shouldnt need an additional controller to enable the haldex to work

If its any help what ever way you decide, i got my mk3 vr syncro trailing arms from a bloke on german ebay who was v v helpful, reasonably priced for postage and quick, called kfz-teile-brandenburg the subframe and the floor can be had from a golf syncro as the central frame is esssentially the same and they seem to crop up on english ebay for less than £150 for the entire car :D and then up to you how you mount the haldex diff (if going modern 4wd) if you go for the dutchbuild.com's brackets then it works out at about £250 :gag: but they are tried tested and look to be decent quality judging by various vortex threads - with the effort its involved unstitching the corrado and rallye rear floors i cant be arsed to sort out the fab work so will be ordering these for mine as an entire weekends design and fab work is worth the cost - it would be a fair bit for material anyway! Hope that helps

mo's all the way :-)

ok cool, thanks gents - i'll ring vw tomorrow and order one :-)

Well the easiest way might be to replace the steering column one out of a mk4 - my r32 one fits basically straight in although the mounting holes need slotted if i remember right! Then you have the correct spline and position and then fit an R32 wheel 8)

on edition 38 quite a bit!

if it were me... i'd pick a tt or and s4 or something as a company subsidised daily - at least its more modern and they can be had for a lot less than they used to now!

looked but i'm not sure where to look for it tbh mate, a pic would be the easiest to follow but if you can work out where on vagcat please tell me :D

I have now descovered that the reason my golf is discharging the battery is that i never refitted the broken engine earth strap after changing the gear box (put a new box in - moved house and it sat for a ear so i forgot! oops!) has anyone got a pic of their 8v engine bay - specifically the earth strap on the right hand side of ther engine is pos as although i can see where it goes on the block i cant remember where it goes in the bay cheers

airbags?? - can you post more pics of the dash please?

though this might prove popular - well done mate