leon263

You will have to remove the door cards to fit new front speakers. They fit from the back of the speaker pods. Nothing is ever easy !!!!!!!

Further to my comments above. Please ensure that you use the correct spigot rings with the proposed wheels to ensure that they centralise securely on the hubs. I certainly WOULD NOT RECOMMEND depending on the bolts alone to centralise the wheel on the hub and that would go for standard bolts too.

I used a set for three years on an Alfa 156 I used to run when fitting 5x100 OZ wheels and never had the slightest problem. TUV approved, 100% safe and I would recommend them without hesitation. I would guess that any-one slagging them off has never even seen a set never mind used them. If you don't like the term 'wobbly bolts' then give them their proper name which is 'PCD correction bolts'.

Good shout mate, if I it to do again I'd be glueing them in too. I probably would not re-lacquer the dishes unless you want to be doing it all again in a couple of years. If you give them a quick polish every couple of weeks you should have no bother.

The Keskin KT1 is a fake split rim wheel. By that I mean that all the 'bolts' around the edge of the rim are actually plastic fakes and are only there for cosmetic purposes. The wheels can certainly be re-furbed but you will have problems. The 'foil wrapping' that you refer to is nonsense. The 'white worm' that you refer to is corrosion on the polished alloy dish and is caused by water finding its way in under the protective lacquer. The normal re-furb procedure would be to remove the bolts, strip the old lacquer off using Nitromors paint stripper, polishing the dishes, re-lacquering (optional) and then replacing the bolts. The problem is that when you try to remove the fake plastic bolts they will just snap off and will not be re-usable. You then will need to drill out all remaining plastic stumps in order to replace the bolts. I have never seen plastic replacements for sale so the option would be to use proper stainless split rim bolts or stainless Allen head bolts. The problem with proper split rim bolts will be the length. They are usually around 25-30mm long which will be too long for your job as the original plastic fakes will have been either glued or pressed in a shallow hole. If you can source short steel bolts you then have the problem of fitting them. The holes in the rim will need to be tapped to provide threads for the bolts or the holes will need to be drilled oversize so that the bolts can be glued in. I have been down this road with a set of fake splits before and I sourced and used 12mm, M8 stainless low head Allen bolts with very acceptable results. I actually tapped every hole and screwed them in which took for ages, believe me. All the above is probably not what you wanted to hear. The quick option is just to paint everything .......... not really an option! Good luck in any case.

Brand new Old style gear knob @ 33.95 euro and brand new New style gear knob @32.90 euro on the site below. (both leather) G60 in Vinyl @9.95 euro, also brand new. http://www.corrado-teile.de/shop/index. ... tml/page/4

Go for it, I did mine a few months back and I reckon it looks so much classier. Pretty straightforward, the previous post covered it well. Pics below.

The speaker in the door is mounted from behind so I'm afraid the answer is no.

It's hidden above the fuse box. You probably will need to remove the plastic dash panel which is above the fuse box as you look at it.

I agree with the above. Put one in my VR6 recently and had to fit the later pedal set up as well . Parts fitted read as below. Master cylinder Part no S358721388 Clutch pedal Part no S3A2721315 Mounting Part no1H0721357 Guide Part no 191721421 Hope this helps.

Replaced the rusty door handle retaining screw and the rusty impact bar retaining bolt on the trailing edge of the door with nice stainless steel replacements. Parts supplied by GlosterOx on this forum. Minimum outlay and a ten minute job.

Here you go mate. There is a slot in the carpet where the rail disappears. If you look at the rail itsef. The bit at the front where the bolt goes through sits in a vertical plane. The hook at the rear sits in a horizontal plane with the the hook towards the outside of the car. The hook fits into a sort of raised tunnel on the inner metal work behind the side panel. Slide the rail through the slit in the carpet and holding it so as the hook is horizontal slide it well back while pressing towards the side panel. Keeping the outward pressure on it slide it forward again. Hopefully it will engage in the tunnel thing. If the bolt hole at the front is in the correct position and you cannot move the rear end of the rail, you've got it. If not, try again and again and again. Remember to slide the seat belt on before you begin. Hope all this makes sense ......... it is a proper faff.

DIY Euro spec manifold, a little colour coding, polish and the obligatory CDA.

The technical term for what you and I know as Allen bolts is Socket head cap screws. They are available with the normal size head but also come in a low head version which we used and is much neater looking. The head depth is about half the standard size. Not as popular, but worth looking for.

We had exactly the same problem when re-furbing the wheels below. We used very short (10mm) M8 stainless Allen bolts. The originals were drilled out and the rim tapped with a M8 tap. Try Stagonset for supplies.

Yes, top it up with the enging running and keep it running long enough for the thermostat to open to allow the coolant to circulate.

As already stated, this really is so easy. Remove all the plug leads ( you will need a plug lead removal tool to avoid damage to the leads) The rear plug lead guide is held on by two screws. Remove them and lift the guide off. The large central section has two screws at the back, remove them and then it will lift off. To remove the front plug lead guide, simply slide it to the right and it will lift off. You are missing a plastic cover which should be to the right of the large central section. Again it is simply held on by screws. A polished manifold does look well, but having been there I can tell you that you will be polishing it for ever to keep it looking good. What about colour coding the manifold as below. The manifold does not get hot enough to damage the paint and it is low maintainence. Getting it off, preparing it and painting it will probably be away beyond your capabilities bearing in mind your problems with the engine plastics, but it is well worth it for the effort involved. Good luck, whatever you decide.

If you can get the replacement pipes it is definitely a DIY job. Just unscrew the old ones, bolt on the new ones, top up the power steering reservoir, start up the engine, wind the steering from lock to lock a couple of times and it's job done.

I don't think you will have any problems with those adaptors. I had a look at my fronts and there is a good 40mm clearance between the inner edge of the rim and the strut with the 35mm adaptor , so even with the 25 mm adaptor you will still be OK. We have already discussed the rears and 5mm is not going to make any difference really. Get the pics up asap.

Right mate, back again with photos as promised. Current adaptors are 35mm. With my 7 inch rears fitted I had 45mm between the inside of the tyre and the body of the shock. The spring does not enter into it as the bottom of the spring is above the upper limit of the tyre. With an 8 inch rear fitted the clearance was still 45mm. The whole wheel sat 13mm further out due to the lower offset but the inner face of the wheel was 12.5mm further in (half of the extra inch) . The body of the shock is 38mm in diameter, so if your coilover spring goes down the back of the tyre then measure the diameter of your coilover spring, subtract 38mm and divide by two and that will be how much closer your spring will be to the tyre as opposed to my shock body. Personally I don't think you will have any problems with a 30mm adaptor even though the wheel will sit 5mm further in than the one in my photos. Don't know if you have sourced your wheels yet, but as I said my mate has a staggered set for sale. Straight and true and polished to a very high standard. He's open to offers around £450. Tyres are all good. Just to finish off I took a shot of my 7 Inch wheel with a 205/45/16 and one of my mates 8 inch wheel with a 195/45/16 which gives it a nice little bit of stretch. Any questions .......... shout. On to the photos. 8 inch wheel with a 195/45 7 inch wheel with a 205/45

Great price for what you are getting. My mate has a staggered set of 928s for sale at the minute so I'll try to borrow an 8 inch one and fit it to the rear with the 35mm adaptor to let you see how it sits. Photos to follow hopefully.

I'm running springs and shocks and with the 7 inch rears I have 45mm between the shock body and the inside of the tyre. Adaptors are FK.

Hi mate. Check out the photos below. The wheels are 16x7 et65 all round with 205/45/16 tyres, 35mm adapters all round and the car is lowered 35mm. I reckon the fronts are about spot on but if you are going to use 16x8 rears with an et52 offset then the wheels are going to sit approx 25mm further out (half of 25mm for the extra inch in width and and extra 13mm for the lower offset figure) An extra 25mm will push the face of the wheel out of the arch slightly but I guess it all depends on how you want the wheels to sit.

Check out the link below. It is usually about 25mm thick and you will want to cover all the internal surfaces of the box with at least one layer. I usually staple it into place. Put the sub back in and have a listen, if you are not happy with the sound, try a second layer. It's not an exact science as everybody has their own preference as to how they want their sub to sound. If you have a local upholstery supplier you will get a similar material there much cheaper. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__speaker+ ... 459_228460

I have a mate who fitted a Rayvern air ride system to his MK 3 Golf recently. Very straighforwrd job by all accounts. The kit came in at around £1650 with DIY fitting. The kit included everything required ......... tank, compressor, air lines, bagged struts, valves and switches.