leon263

You don't mention what thichness of adapters you are using. I'm running exactly the same wheel/ tyre set up with 35mm adapters with absolutely no clearance problems at all.

The OEM Vag ones are complete as you would expect with the plastic sleeve on the pin and a big plastic washer behind the round plate. Unfortunately they are not chrome plated but have a yellowish anti corrosion finish. Fitting is just a case of screwing out the old ones and screwing in the new ones. When you take the old ones out they will have left a circular mark on the door post so just make sure the new ones line up with the mark ........... 2 minute job. Don't have a part number, I just ask for them over the counter.

Got two new ones for my VR6 to-day from my local dealer. With a little bit of trade discount the bill came to £7.80.

I have used a Richbrook Dis-Car-Nect in the past with great results as it totally isolates the battery when you remove the screw in knob. The down side is that you lose radio memory, clock setting etc. and possibly your alarm depending on how it is wired. Check out the ad below. You can use the by-pass link to keep the radio etc alive but if you omit it all the electrics are dead. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Richbrook-DIS-C ... B0019ULCPW

You are quite right. The Porsche wheels are 5x130 and the offset is et65. The pictures below show my VR with 35mm adapters all round and lowered approx. 40mm. Not the best angle but it will give you an idea. Effective offset with the adapters is et30 and I reckon you probably use 40-45 mm adapters on the rear with no problems.

I started off with a standard VR manifold which was soda blasted to remove all the corrosion etc. I then decided to see if I could do a Euro spec lookalike manifold. I started off by making a cardboard template to fill the missing corner around the filler cap and when I was happy with the shape I replicated it in 3mm alloy plate. I then welded the plate into place and smoothed the whole manifold prior to painting. First step was etch primer, as you mentioned, followed by high build two pack primer, paint and finally lacquer. Lots of attention to flatting back between coats and a final polish. I'm well pleased with the result and it seems to be wearing well three months on.

My son runs an 18t with the Recaro interior and apart from the usual inconvenience of getting into the back of a three door he never really had any problems. Boot is a really good size, deep and rectangular, so no problems swallowing up push chairs etc. His son has just turned three and still uses the child seat so apart from the tricky access you won't have any problems.

Believe it or not, heat is not really an issue with the VR6 inlet manifold. If you think about it, cold/ cool air form the throttle body is passing through it on its way into the cylinder head constantly which has quite a cooling effect. Try putting your hand on it after a run and you will be surprised how cool it runs. I smoothed and colour coded my manifold using standard two pack primer and paint and the finish is still perfect.

Go onto E-Bay and type 'alcantara' into the search box and take your pick. Alcantara is a very realistic suede substitute and is available in lots of different colours. Going rate is about £20 a metre and is is usually around 54 inches wide. Reasonable easy to work with and normally fixed with automotive spray glue. Very nice finish as long as you don't get any wrinkles. I'm nearly sure some-one on here is selling some in the parts for sale section as we speak.

I have considered repair kits but I reckoned that if I had the roof out for repair it would probably be easier just to bolt a replacement one in. Not too sure I'd really know how to go about a repair.

Hi guys, I have an early 1993 VR6 with the usual non functioning sun roof. I have had an offer of a fully operational roof from a 1991 G60. Obviously they are the same size so my question is will the earlier roof fit without major problems. I have had G60s in the past and can safely say that the switches are different. Am I going to run into problems with the wiring etc. Any help or advice appreciated.

Part number for gear knob could well be 357711141A1BX. Check out the link below. ( near the bottom of page 4 ) http://www.corrado-teile.de/shop/index. ... tml/page/4

You have two options in stainless steel . The closest to the originals are Phillips Pan Head machine screws. You might like to consider Socket Head button screws as an alternative. Both are available from Stagonset.co.uk in small quantities. The Pan Heads are 20p each and the Button Heads are 29p a time. The size that you require is 16mm M6. Hope this helps.

These look identical to the pipes off the front of a Mk2 Golf GTI power steering rack and if they are then you will be pleased to hear that VW do not sell the pipes seperately. They will only sell you a complete steering rack. I had the same problem with a Golf a few years back and eventually I had a new set made up in a local garage from brake pipe material. I recycled some of the fittings and was able to source the others from a local engineering supply company. Total cost was under a tenner. I also tracked down a company who refurbished power steering racks via Google who could supply a set but they wanted around £60.

I replaced my seat bolster about 15 mts ago and at that time the parts guy told me that I'd got the last bolster that VW had in stock. Maybe bull s++t, who knows. Try your local parts dept., from memory it was about £28. Failing that, try to get your hands on a passenger seat and strip out the bolster that you need. Being the inner one it will be like new.

Turn 2 induction kit in the Parts for Sale.

I'm running mirror polished Porsche 928s on my Corrado (no lacquer) and to be honest they are remarkably easy to maintain if you are prepared to keep them clean. I wash them thoroughly on a weekly basis and once a month I'll go over them with Meguiars metal polish and finish them off with a coat of Collinite 915 wax. They have been on the car for over a year now and still look as they did when they were freshly polished.

Just type BANJO BOLT into Google and take your pick. When you say 13mm banjo bolt, I assume you are referring to the size of the spanner that fits it. If this is the case then what you need is a M8 banjo bolt. These are also used to join flexi brake pipes to calipers so any half decent motor factors should be able to help. Failing that any engineering supply company will have one. One euro up front from a VW dealer sounds OK. They'll want the money up front in case you don't come back to collect it and they'll then have something in stock that they'll probably never be asked for again.

Do a search on E-Bay for Corrado central locking pumps. There is usually a good selection available with the different number of pins from various breakers.

There are at least three different pumps with differing number of pins where the power plug goes in. Try a search for central locking pumps on e-bay and you should get a selection of all different pumps with the relevant part numbers.

Centrebore on the Mini wheel is 56.1mm as opposed to 57.1mm on the Corrado so it's either machining or a bit of work with a half round file to get them to fit. Off-set is not quite right either so you will need spacers.

Back rest is approx. 45inches/ 114cm wide Seat base is approx. 45inches/ 114cm wide at the bottom of the back rest and 47.5 inches/ 120cm wide at the front edge. Hope this helps.

Central locking pump is very easy to replace. You will find it behind the carpet on the drivers side of the boot encased in a polystyrene box type thing. There is one multi pin plug and a vacuum pipe to remove. There are quite a few different types of pump actually and you should remove yours and get a part number off it first. Count the number of pins in the multi pin plug as well as some are 8, 10,11 or 12 and make sure you get the right one. New from VW they are around £120ish. Go onto e-bay and search for Corrado central locking pump and you should turn up one for £20 - £40.

From memory I think there should be a couple of screws, one at either end and probably a shed load of bonding if mine is anything to go by.

Recently had spare upper and lower VR6 inlet manifolds soda blasted with excellent results. Soda blasting is commonplace in the alloy wheel refurb world and is less aggressive than sand blasting which could damage the alloy casting. Will post a few photos later this evening. As you can see, they are now very clean and they were in a right state to start with. It is my intention to etch prime them and then spray them with a high temp silver finish. I reckon that if I don't coat them then they will slowly degrade over time and finish up the way they were. If you are just trying to tidy up your original without removal, then you'll be pleasently surprised how well it will look after half an hours attention with red scotch brite.