leon263

Typical VR6 option codes are shown below. The only mention of seats is Q1D .......... sports front seats VR6 X2B = national sales program Great Britain B0N = component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts C5K = alloy wheels 9J x 19 G0C = 5-speed manual transmission H1V = TYRES 205/50 R 15 V J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) M1M = 6-cylinder gasoline engine 2.9 L/140 kW VR6 Motronic, closed-loop catalytic converter, base engine is T6Q Q1D = sports front seats 1AE = electronic differential lock (EDL/ABS) 1G9 = space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole) 1MV = leather steering wheel 3AE = outer right rear view mirror: flat, powered, heated 3BF = outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated T6Q = components for, base engine, unit 021.D 3FD = electric sliding/pop-up sunroof 9BA = without additional electric safety package 9HA = without additional malfunction display 9C2 = without special low beam mode but with "coming and leaving home" function for ROW" 8GD = alternator 90A 8RL = six loudspeakers (passive) 8TD = rear fog light for driving on the left 4A3 = seat heater for front seats separately controlled 8BF = halogen headlight for driving on the left 8WD = integrated front fog light 1BA = standard suspension/shock absorption

Looking at the photos, I'd say you are spot on with the 'left hooker' comment. The outer bolster on the passenger seat is showing a lot more wear than the outer bolster on the drivers seat which would be normal for a left hooker.

You'll probably find the the yellow and red wires on the loom attached to the Kenwood will already have connectors installed to facilitate the switch.......... simply swap them over.

Check out the photos below. Spotless VR6 rocker cover which has been soda blasted, etch primed and sprayed in 2 pack satin silver. Part number is 021 103 475 C which denotes that it originally came off a 2.8 VR6 .......... probably a MK3 Golf. It is identical to the Corrado cover as the 2.9 engine is just a bored out 2.8 I had it as a spare when I had my Corrados ......... now long gone. I've also got the oil filler cap which I'll throw in FOC. Asking for £35 inc postage.

Getting good driver's seat foams is going to be tricky but if you can pick up a good passenger seat from a breaker, swapping the foams over to your existing seat is pretty straightforward.

I'd recommend something along the lines of the portable gas job as shown at the link below. I bought one for Maplins around 20 years ago and it is still going strong. I used to do a lot of car hi-fi installation and this iron tackled everything up to and including four gauge power cable. You'll get, probably, four tips included which will cover everything you're likely to encounter. All you'll need is a can of butane lighter gas and a roll of fluxed solder. https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pro-iroda-solderpro-70w-gas-soldering-iron-kit-n13ar

Check out the pics at the link below. They show a CDA fitted to a 2.8 V6 Mk3 Golf engine but the principle is exactly the same. Measure the diameter of the MAF inlet and source a couple of inches of silicone hose in the relevant size from e-bay or elsewhere and mount the filter as shown. To support the filter, you could fabricate a right angled bracket with a long arm and a short arm from a length of plain bar similar to the bar you received with the filter. Drill two holes in the long arm to pick up the two mounting bolts on the tensioner and one hole in the short arm to pick up the bolt from the CDA clamp. You should just about be able to see what I mean in the pics below. On the other hand, Daves 16v, a member on this forum, used to produce a stainless steel bracket for this very purpose but I don't know if they are still available. Check out the link below and drop him a PM. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79954-BMC-CDA-Mounting-Bracket-Polished-Stainless-Steel

If you look at the back of the bulb holder which holds the indicator bulb you will see a number of male spade connectors recessed down into the plastic with nothing attached to them. There will be a combination of letters or numbers on the plastic adjacent to each spade. You are looking for a spade marked BL and a spade marked 31. Once you have found them simply stick the resistor to the rear of the bulb holder with a number plate sticky, crimp female spade connectors onto the two wires coming from the resistor and join one wire to the BL spade and the other to the 31 spade. It does not matter which wire goes to which spade, either will work. Basically, the LED bulbs have a very low resistance and you are wiring the resistor in parallel with the bulb to raise the resistance to the required level. Should you ever revert to normal bulbs, simply disconnect the resistor. Link for the 50 watt, 6ohm resistors is shown below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Ohm-50W-Watt-5-Gold-Tone-Aluminum-Casing-Resistors-Replacement-2-Pcs/191696969782?epid=1438356046&hash=item2ca207a036:g:yBUAAOSwkLhaTQ3i

From memory I think one should be a low pressure switch and the other a high pressure switch. I had a quick look on e-bay and the two below seem to match that criteria, match your existing colours and be for your engine. DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT HOWEVER , MAKE UP YOUR OWN MIND. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-53I-2-0i-16V-1-53-1-93-Genuine-Intermotor-Oil-Pressure-Switch/291703088723?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-53I-2-0i-16V-0-15-0-43-Genuine-Intermotor-Oil-Pressure-Switch/301892200038?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Have a read through the post at the link below which covers the replacement of both switches. Pretty sure I still have the spanner ......... give me a shout if you need it and it's yours FOC as my Corrado is long gone. I've had a few random oil warning light and beeper episodes recently. Normal oil and water temperatures and lack of odd noises led me to suspect that perhaps the two switches on top of the oil filter housing were on their way out. A quick look down the back of the radiator revealed that oil was acually seeping out of the top of the high pressure switch so I decided to replace both the high and low pressure switches. Both can be found on the top of the oil filter housing. The high pressure swith, on the left as you look at it, has a black top, a single spade connector and a yellow wire attached to it. The low pressure switch,on the right, has a blue top, a single spade connector and a blue wire. Access is severely limited, but on Fla's advice I removed the driver side headlamp (three screws and one connector) and that lets you get your arm in and straight at the switches. You will need a 24mm spanner and a short one is ideal. Not a too many people will have one, but luckily I found an old 15/16ths imperial ring spanner in my collection and shortened it to around 150mm. It was then only a question of removing the wires, screwing the old switches out and the new ones in. Replace the wires and the headlight and it's job done. It took less than 30 mins and the two new genuine switches cost around £30 from TPS although they can be had much cheaper on e-bay............... no warning lights during a 10 mile test drive so hopefully that's that.

Give Easypops on this forum a shout, he was selling replacement cables that he'd got from the States a while back.

You may remember that Wheeler Dealers did a Corrado a while back and they had the ABS pump repaired. Check out the link below and you'll find the name of the company they used about half way down the page. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91993-Wheeler-Dealers/page14

Are you sure you need a new heater control panel? .............. the fan only working on speed 4 is typical symptom of a blown fuse on the resistor on the blower motor. Have a read through the article below. A repair could be as easy as replacing the thermal fuse or if you don't fancy having a go at that, then replace the resistor/fuse unit complete. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_thermal_fuse_repair.html

I got a full set of these, both parts, from VW Heritage a couple of years back........... worth a shout if you know the part number.

That is perfectly normal, the light is supposed to come on and then go out. The light going out shows that the system is OK. Worry if it doesn't go out or comes on whilst driving.

There should be a number of metal clips which hold the trim in the correct position. I can't remember if they clip onto the edge of the door card or onto the trim but in any case I have four here which you are welcome to and I'm sure you'll work it out. The purpose of the clips is to lock the door card into the trim and eliminate your problem. Have a look at the diagram below, the trim is number 17 and the clips are number 9. It looks as if the clips might actually be on the lower edge of the slot in the trim with the tongue part inside the slot. PM me your address if they are any good to you. http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/RDW/COR/1994/76/R/8/867/177000

Going by the shipping costs incurred on Wheeler Dealers when they ship a car from the USA to GB you would probably be looking at around £2000.

LED bulbs with the relevant resistors are the way to go with all reds. The links below show the bulbs and resistors to use. Stick the resistors to the rear of the bulb holder with a number plate sticky and join one wire to the BL terminal and the other to the 31 terminal on the rear of the bulb holder (either to either, it does not matter)......... job done for about a tenner. You need the resistors to make the indicator flash at the correct speed due to the lower impedance of he LED bulb. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Car-1156-382-BA15S-P21W-White-102-SMD-LED-Tail-Brake-Signal-Light-Bulb-12V-MQ/172146283525?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3De4dbbc2f5d684acfbc5785e30dc8bdd0%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D132121443644 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-50w-6-ohm-Load-Resistors-LED-Canbus-Error-Free-Rapid-Blinking-Flickering-Bulb-/252267858980?hash=item3abc560c24:g:iskAAOSw--1Wp80F

Here's a couple of photos of my Mk4 18t and my Audi TT to ponder. Black LMs with polished lips, red and gold badges and gold bolts. (the genuine red and gold badges are an eye watering £180 a set from Phillip Walker MotorSports) The other set are not LMs but they are very like them. They have been powder coated a light grey with hyper silver lips, red and gold badges and titanium bolts. The LMs are probably my all time favourite wheel and will add a touch of class no matter what colour you do tthem.

Stunning, and so tastefully done ........... an absolute credit to you.

Here's a standard plastic VW one from VW Parts International. Listed as suitable for the Mk3 Golf VR6 and the Corrado VR6 and your original one probably lasted about a hundred thousand miles. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161484112411?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

There is a complete working sunroof and mechanism on Scottish VAG for £50 at the minute if that would be of any interest. http://www.scottishvag.net/viewtopic.php?f=209&t=127794

Here you go. Originally soda blasted, etch primed and painted to match my old Ice Grey Violet VR. (nothing an aerosol of high temp. silver paint wouldn't cure) It never made it onto the car which is long gone. How does £25 inc First Class postage sound ............. it's a heavy wee item Bob

I used a set of these once upon a time. They come fitted into a hard plastic ring but the actual grill can easily be pushed out from the back and the fit is pretty good https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Speaker-Grills-Universal-Fitment/dp/B0057OTW9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486683218&sr=8-1&keywords=6%2C5+inch+speaker+grills

Available on e-bay at a price ............. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scirocco-MK3-Genuine-VW-Rear-Boot-Tailgate-Adjustable-Stop-Buffer-Early-Ver-/262374921372?hash=item3d16c3949c:g:~ZgAAOSwjMJXBsJU