leon263

What about a bit of colour coding and polishing. Colour code the manifold and polish the ends of the rocker cover. While you have the manifold off do a little bit of creative alloy welding and get rid of the missing corner around the oil filler cap. I made a cardboard template and when I was happy with the shape I cut a piece of 3mm alloy plate to match and had it welded in. The manifold was soda blasted, two pack primed and painted and then lacquered. It never gets too hot and the finish is still spot on.

Are these the bad boys that you are after. They screw into the carpet and the mats snap on the stud part that sticks up. If so, PM me your address and I'll pop a couple in the post. My genuine Corrado mats only have the holes in the driver's mat so two should do.

I fitted this very kit about two weeks ago and so far I've had absolutely no problems but time will tell I suppose. Quality looks spot on and the fit was perfect. It's nice to have all the bits in the kit as the fitting on the end of the crack pipe on mine disintegrated while being dismantled. I also replaced the two short rubber hoses going to the oil cooler while I had the front end off. They are also available from the same supplier.

Good shout. Have a close look at the other lights units and see if there are any dimples left on them. I've done a fair few sets of all reds and getting rid of the raised logos and lettering is easy but you will be left with dimples where the light came out of the mould. Getting them totally smooth is just a case of sanding, sanding and more sanding. If you are just looking to lose the lettering etc then 500 grit paper will do the job quite easily. If you are looking to lose the dimples too then go through the grades ...... 120, 180, 240, 320 and finally 500 If you have access to a dual action sander then use it and sand the whole surface of the light and not just the area around the dimple of you'll finish up with a little hollow which will be very obvious when you add the tint and lacquer. Good luck mate.

Am I not right in thinking that the set you bought had been sanded smooth before they were tinted. If that's the case they are going to look a bit odd with one standard section complete with logos etc. I doubt if you'll separate them but good luck if you try, I'd be smoothing and tinting a new one. You'll pick up a single light on e-bay with no problem, just do a search under 'Corrado lights'

I replaced the clutch master cylinder on my Jan 93 VR6 and had to use the upgraded cylinder as you have been quoted. Below is a list of the parts I needed and their description .... all from TPS. When fitted you will find that you also have to realign the hydraulic pipe from the m/cylinder as the feed from the new one comes out at a different place. Master cylinder ...... 358721388 .... £79.60 Clutch pedal .... 3A2721315 .... £33.21 Mounting .... 1H0721357 .... £0.68 Guide .... 191721421 .... £1.87 Prices are discounted trade prices from TPS. Hope this helps, try to make sure you get all the parts you need at once. I was back and forward a few times as no-one thought to tell me, 'you'll need this too'. All in all , a right faff but at least the clutch is perfect now.

Cheer for the replies guys. I've also found the billet Gruven Parts one from VooDoo Motorsport @ £50 Decisions, decisions!

Quite simple guys ........... plastic or billet and from where?

Many thanks for the interest guys. As things stand at the moment I have three sets which are all provisionally spoken for. I will be doing further sets in the future as and when I can source them and they will be posted in the Parts for Sale.

No problem but it might be a while.

I'll be doing a couple of sets over the next week or two. I'll PM you with pics when they are ready. The price would be £55 including delivery. Many thanks.

Correct, £55 for a straight sale inc. delivery.

I'm in N. Ireland and I do operate an exchange scheme over here but as you are on the mainland it could be a bit of a problem with postage etc. Bear in mind also that the all reds will not pass MOT so you would probably want to keep your standard lights anyway. I do have a couple of sets of lights at the moment awaiting treatment.

Hi mate, I've supplied quite a few sets of body shop tinted all red lights for MK2, 3, 4 Golf and Corrado with no complaints so far. The lights are totally smoothed (all markings, logos etc removed), tinted, lacquered, oven baked, de-nibbed and finally machine polished to a show car finish. All this is done in a pro. body shop and to the highest standard and only genuine undamaged Hella units are used. Asking price for a set of Corrado lights is £55 delivered which I reckon is fair when you consider that I have to buy the lights to start with. You can go down the DIY route with a can of red spray for under a tenner but I think you'll see the difference. The pics below show a set in my own car.

My Bordeaux Pearl VR6 came with grey leather, carpets and dash. I always hated the grey carpets and when the chance arose to buy an immaculate black carpet set I jumped at it. Personally I think it works really well although I am still running the grey dash so the pictures below do not show the exact combination you have in mind. Hope this helps.

Just thought I'd post a few shots of my current Corrado VR6. This is my third Corrado, having owned two G60s in recent years. The VR6 is a '93 car which belonged to a local dentist for almost all of its life and when I bought it three years ago it was showing 68,000 miles. Very much a fair weather and show day car the mileage has only moved on to 72,000. The colour is Bordeaux Pearl with a grey leather interior which is in excellent condition althought I did replace the drivers seat bolster which was a bit soft. The original grey carpets were replaced with a low mileage black carpet set which included the boot carpets. Apart from a Momo Millenium steering wheel and Alpine headunit the interior remains standard. Surprisingly all the electrics still work as they should. The standard springs have been relaced with an Eibach Pro Kit and polished Porsche 928s complete running gear with the standard brake set up. A debadged grille and all red tail lights tidy up the front and rear. I've spent a lot of time tidying up the engine bay, the main features of which are the colour coded home made euro spec inlet manifold and the obligatoty BMC CDA. The car starts, stops, steers and goes as a VR6 should, it has been a joy to own and drive and fingers crossed, long may it continue. Thanks for looking.

Your standard wheels are probably around ET35 and six inches wide. Allowing an extra 25mm front and back for the extra width and an extra 35mm for the ET0 fitting your new wheels will sit 60mm further out than the standard ones. At a guess I'd say they will be well out of the arches, rolled or not. Check out the calculator below and enter your details. http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

Not actually just as simple as that, there are several things to bear in mind. The standard wheels on your Corrado will have an offset of either et33 or et35 depending on whether they are 6 or 6.5 inches wide. Be sure that you know the offset of your new wheels before you buy adapters which come in a variety of widths in 5mm steps. For example if you buy a set of Porsche 928 rims the offset will be et65. To make them sit in the same position as your standard wheels you will need a set of 30mm (65 -35) adapters although you might well want to use a wider set of adapters to push the wheel slightly further out (for example 35mm or possibly 40mm) Bear in mind also that the rims that you fit may well be already wider than the stock wheels which will also have the effect of pushing them out. If you use this formula you will not go far wrong ......... adapter thickness equals the difference in the offset of the new wheel minus the offset of the standard wheel although as stated you could go 10-15mm wider to set the wheel out a bit more. You will find the offset of the wheel stamped on the inside of the rim. It will be a number preceded by the letters et.

The pic. below shows the Passat wiper motor cover in situ. Part number is 3A2 955 128 and it's available from your dealer for somewhere around £3-£4. It simply snaps into place over the motor.

Could quite possibly be the clutch operating arm inside the bell housing which has a habit of developing hairline cracks and bending. A typical symptom would be a very low bite point on the clutch.

Do you have the two front pipes for a '93 VR6 ex stock. If not, what is the lead in time after payment. Is delivery to N. Ireland a problem ( we are part of the UK). Many thanks, Bob

Just received a new sensor from UK Parts Direct to-day at £12.98 delivered. Removed the old one without too much difficulty, fitted the replacement and bingo ......... no more ABS light. Fingers crossed the the problem is solved and if so, £12.98 is a small price to pay.

No problem. All four stud VWs use wheel bolts which have M12x1.5 threads. All five stud VWs use wheel bolts which have M14x1.5 threads. You will require a set of new wheel bolts in M14x1.5 with radiused heads to suit your D90s and adapters. The M14 bolts are 2mm thicker than your original wheel bolts and are the common bolts used on adapters which is why the originals do not fit. Good luck.

It is virtually impossible to tell from those photos. See if there is a manufacturers name on the adapters. They could well be by FK which is probably the most common make. If they are FK they will require tapered bolts. The BBS wheels look as if they may need radiused bolts but again it is impossible to be sure. You should be able to tell the type of bolt required by close examination of the bolt holes in the adapters and wheels.. If you are not confident enough to make the call, take the adapters and wheels into your local wheel shop or tyre depot and they'll keep you right.

That is correct. Drop one of the original wheel bolts that you have through the adapter and see how much of the threaded part of the bolt sticks out. Ideally you would like to see approx. 12mm of threads. If you can see 12mm of threads then that length of bolt is ideal, if not then you will need to source longer bolts. The next question is whether the wheel bolt will suit the adapter. Wheel bolts come in two types. Some have a taper at the base of the head where it meets the threads and some have a radiused (semi circular) base to the head. To further complicate matters some adapters use a standard type of bolt with no taper or radius. Have a close look down one of the bolt holes on the adapter and you should be able to work out which type of bolt you require from the shape of the base of the bolt hole. I'm guessing that you are fitting the wheels to a VW and if this is the case the standard wheel bolts will have a radiused seat. If the adapters have tapered or flat seats then you will need to source a set of suitable bolts. Once you have the correct bolts, simply bolt the adapters to the hub and then bolt the wheels to the adapter. Again make sure that the bolts are the correct ones for the wheels as the bolt holes on the wheel may require tapered or radiused bolts. If you do need to source new bolts the size that you will require is M14x1.5