coullstar

IIRC you get the primer and paint for that though. Its worth spending a little extra. Ive used it on my wing mirror and its held up well so far. Heres the stuff Ive got for removing rust http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html Not tried it yet but will do in the next couple of week hopefully. Luckily Ive got an old wing to practice on first.

Best to check what the ET is first, should be stamped on the rear of the wheels. What size & width are they? Pretty sure the rear track is narrower than the front so 10mm should be ok. Always use hubcentric ones remember.

Thats dedication for you.

Good job, Im going to try something similar on my door as well soon. If your not showing the car and its not noticable from a few feet away then thats all that matters. One thing though, did you use any rust removal products as it will just have sat it the tiny pores even when you took it back to bare metal? I got some of this special Gel stuff that I cannot remember the name off. You take it back to bare metal and throw this stuff on for 48hrs. Oh and another thing, if getting paint just go to your dealer as they can order up spray cans from your paint code. I did it with a wing mirror and its a perfect match, Halfords is shit paint if Im honest. You also have to watch with metallics as the amount of lacquer you use seems to effect the final colour match.

Ive done the whole 24v thing and its a great update on the car however if your car is running fine I would just leave it until there are signs of potential problems. Drive the car and enjoy it, once you start messing about with the car off the road then you can sometimes loose the enjoyment. Mine has been off the road for a month and I'll be honest if it wasnt sitting there when I got back from work I wouldnt be too bothered at the moment.

I was going to help but then I saw your painting them orange.... Ive done a few sets and if you keep to the advise above there ok. Ive used etch primer first but make sure you do this soon after exposing the metal. Then normal primer, paint then lacquer with various sanding between. If you get the blue masking tape from B&Q its easy to mask of with the tyres still on. Take your time and they come out fine, just dont expect a perfect finish. Oh and heat the cans up a little before using to thin the paint. Heres my last set of wheels but Ive probably done this a dozen times now.

I take it you have checked the fuse?

Can you not just raise the car slightly?

Dont think Ive replied to this but Im up in Aberdeen as well. Quite a few up here.

Dont use them, there crap. You never get them to sit perfectly central so you will get some vibration. Ive had this problem, if your getting 5mm then its still best to use hubcentric ones to eliminate the vibrations. Ive got some eibach 5mm ones but there 5x100. Ive always found that 5mm on the back is fine with standard bolts but 5mm on the front is a bit too close i.e. not really enough threads holding the wheels on. Better safe than sorry when it comes to keeping your wheels on. There is a rule of thumb that you should have something like at least as much thread into the hubs as the bolt OD or along those lines.

Might work. If Vagcom isnt bringing up any problems then it may not be the lambda. Can you not get one from elsewhere, doesnt have to be dealers. High CO is due to incomplete combustion so not enough air or overfuelling. What youve done should have helped.

Look decent and standard is always a good thing with these. I do prefer these over the Subaru's as well, dont know why though.

Whats it failing on, HC or CO levels and what are they?

I know but its been misplaced.

http://www.corrado-vr6.info/technical.htm Particularly the unladen weight. Looking to see if I can tow the car with my Passat and its pretty damn close when taking this and the trailer into account.

I wouldnt say its ED38 as whole but its just how a lot of guys think everything is so expensive or worth it because it doesnt look the norm. Different isnt always better. Another was those jewel encrusted Mk4 wheels the other year, £2k!!!!! and they were utterly rank however the sale was justified as "no other set in the UK".

I know we all take the piss out the ED38 rare thing but my god take a look at these wheels for sale http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... 30108&st=0 £900 :shock: haha, the shop he bought thenm from must have had the biggest windows in the world. :lol: I really really just dont get it.

Pretty much always been more demand than supply available but with the downturn the oil companies are cancelling or not looking at new exploration or production wells. Problem will be when the demand picks up again and it takes a couple of years of drilling/completing to catch therefore the price will skyrocket. The Canadain stuff is heavy oil which is difficult to produce, you need to inject steam just to get it to flow but the reserves are massive.

Price of oil is going up as well. :clap:

Why didn't you just leave it at PSI? Or are you still using it as a daily uninsured? :| Not been near them since its conversion plus there about 6hrs drive from me hence why Im hoping its an easy fix. If its not then Im going to have to trailer the car down to them. Not using the car, wouldnt do that because as you pointed out the car is not technically insured. Basically the same car is at PSI at the moment so they can figure out whats wrong as it is an issue with the cars set up, not from wear and tear.

Phenolic.

Surely the heat resistant properties of the cermic coating will be more of an advantage over the powdercoating. For me its function over form. Get your exhaust manifold done as well.

Mk3 needs a VR to feel quick as standard although tweeked ABF is nice however mpg is then in VR range. Imagine how bad a Mk4 2l feels then.

Little update. Wing was damaged by some drunken twat so Ive given up on keeping it nice for the moment. Car went in for MOT and only problem was emissions. Seriously high CO levels. Fitted a CAT that made next to no difference but did bring exhaust noise down so nice and subtle. Looks like there are some fault codes coming up that are apparently "normal" for the conversion and should be ok however it looks like Im not alone with having this problem so its in PSI's court to fix it. Better be easy fix as the car MOT ran out a couple of weeks ago so is sitting on the road technically uninsured. Just my luck that some twat will run into it writing it off. On a plus note if its been running in limp mode then it should be even faster when fixed. Oh and Ive just bought another set of wheels. (17in were sold a few weeks ago after the wing incident as I was hacked off with it being a target) Put a silly low offer in on ebay and it was accepted, woops. Already been getting jip about garage space so not sure how Im going to explain this. 16in this time, 7.5in ET30 so they should fit the car perfectly. Nice and subtle as well so shoudlnt stand out plus the Speedlines really need a proper refurb and have a slow puncture.

Having had 13 wheels changes this year Id say your suspension set up has a lot to do with how the car rides. The main thing is weight and width. Weight to a minimum (no matter what size) and width below 8j. For the best of all worlds I would say 7.5 or possibly 8x16 is perfect. Im back to standard again and I love how there is a little bit of give when cornering hard as it seems to allow a more progressive loss. Dont want the thing suddenly letting go with no warning which could happen with the likes of the Toyo888's.