coullstar

Ive done that as I dont 100% trust visual marks as you suggest. TDC is spot on the inner crank pulley slot according to the piston position. I checked the intermediate and could see the little spike in the wheel hole was aligned with the top vertical mark. Thats whats getting me, its like the timing is out but all marks suggest it is not.

Slower and gearbox is more prone to ****ting itself. Best thing to do is drive one and see if you like it.

I wont say exact costs but I asked both Stealth and HotGolf for prices for the same thing and Stealth were about 40% more but then they are an established buisness with the expereince as mentioned above. I dont know the guy HotGolf (Martin) but I believe this is a sideline for him however there is nothing but good words for him on clubgti forum so I dont doubt his ability to do the same job.

Coilpack version. All plugs are sooty black after attempting to start. Im going to do a compresion test. Like I said all was fine before stripping down.

Okay I have fitted some new cams to the car and put the car back together only for it to have some real issues. I made the the car was timed right and checked the intermediate shaft timing mark, it was at the top mark but in line. I primed the top tensioner bolt by turning the car over with the starter then double checked the timing again. Out everything back together but didnt fully tighten the inlet manifold bolts. The car ran fine before taking it apart. When I try to start it turns over but dies straight away. If a little throttle is applied is stays on but is very very lumpy, stinks of fuel and wants to die with throttle taken off. The revs rise but very quickly and not in a liner relation to the throttle opening. There is also an awful grating or shreiking noise when the revs rise and some popping from the exhaust. I took everything apart, checked timing and all is okay. Turned it over by hand and using the starter and again all seems fine. Put it back together and systematically disconnected the MAF, ISV and each plug lead but it made no difference. Tried my VAG COM but it didnt pick anything up but TBH I dont think its working right. To me it must be something mechanical but I cant see what, the ISV etc was working fine before so I dont see why they would suddlenty stop working. Anything else that someone can think of? Im thinking Ive somehow damaged a valve which is now not sealing and causing this issue but then surely it would only be on one cyclinder.

Managed to get some time on the car and something is not right. Timing all seems correct, primed the tensioner and turned it over by hand and using the starter. All appears fine. Put the car back together and started the car, well tried to. It will fire then die straight away. With some throttle it will stay on but is very very lumpy, some popping and revs dont follow the throttle. There is also a screeching noise from the chain area. Took it apart and checked everything and all seems fine. Turned it over again on the starter and no problems, all timed up right. Not quite sure what the issue is TBH. Time for the search function.

Go on clubgti and message a guy called HotGolf as he can do the build. I asked him recently to do mine.

Friend at work has one, they do look cool. I was offered one as a swap for my S4 but couldnt live with the impracicality of it. They look awseome with the CSL's fitted. Ive still got a thing for the breadvan previous version. I reckon they would be a good laugh as well.

I actually really like the Solitudes now and a 40mm is all that is needed.

Usually glass is only a £50 excess though.

Pagid are decent and those prices are not to bad. I just put some Brembo road pads in with the 280's and they have been good, round about the same price. Dont skimp on the cheapest pads. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390281854255?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Just picked up a set as well, will keep standard pads in for road and have should have a set of Mintex 1155's for track is I go back.

No issues, other than reducing top speed but then how often do you do 150mph+. Ive been told the 3rd gear from G60 makes a big difference as well. Looked into the recently and to get it done your looking at about £5-600 as you may as well get the box rebuilt at the same time, then it would be silly not to add a new clutch as well so there is another £120. Its worth but it will cost.

If you do a search for this is will bring up loads on info but basics are that 263 or thereabout seem to get the best results for the VR. There is 263 Schimmels or 262 Autotech's, some use 268 Schricks.

Only thing that puts me off Mk2's now is the rust. They seem riddled with it these days. If the shells good and it has the proper hydraulic clutch ot should be good fun.

Prefer the Borbets to them.

Okay, just redid it and everything looks fine but I dont have a mirror to check the intermediate marks. Turned it over 4 times all still align and the intermediate notch shows up every 2nd turn. Only thing is I cant remember how much I turned the crank (2 or 4) before realigning the cams so as I understand it there is a chance the intermediate could be 180deg out? Where does one get a mirror to check this and what would be the problem if it were 180deg out as I cant see that as a problem i.e. if the little spike is at the top or bottom? Whats strange as well is that there is in fact two notches on the crank pulley. One on the inside and one on the outside about an inch apart, I'l do the visual TDC check againts these.

Ive done that but will do it again hopefully get time to check it tonight.

Tried again last night and cant seem to get the cams lined up right, its like I need to have the slots angled opposite way to get the chaiin on taught i.e. rear angle like this / and front angled this way \ (exaggerated but still within the cam holding plate. It doesnt feel right to me. Is it a must to to bleed the tensioner bolt before reusing it? Also my crank notch is on the outer edge of the crank wheel not on the inner edge as it seems to be in all the online photos. Its definitely TDC on 1 though.

Looks nice, whats the sleeper part all about?

Personally I preferred the 150 as its more petrol like to drive (some dont like that) however there have been some with terrible cam and tappet wear on engines. Mine was fine but it had used the correct spec oil from day one and changed every 6kmiles before I got it. Using the correct oil is key I believe.

Mk4 Golf Tdi's are the best all rounder. They will easily do high mileage, just make sure they have the timing belt and or clutch change. I had a 150tdi and abused the hell out of it for abotu 8 months and not once did it go wrong, was on 135kmiles with original turbo. Seats / Skoda etc use the same engine but they feel a lot cheaper inside plus the Mk4 is easy to work on. I found the bigger cars like the Passat are not quite so easy and with the different front suspension dont handle quite so good. 130 Tdi is the pick of the engines.

Finally got some spare time yesterday to try and work on this. All went okay but then dropped a cam cap bolt down into the tensioner area, I was gutted as Im needing it bask on the road soon so I had visions of box coming off etc Managed to get a screwdriver and magnet in to get it so that was lucky. Got the new cams in, put things back and turned over by hand a few times but the cams were not lining up when crank notch was showing TDC. Looks like Im a tooth out but it does seem very close. Forgotten how much I cant be arsed working on cars in the cold, its not fun in the slightest.

The middle silencer I added was probably bigger than that and sat very snug but it worked for me. There was not noticable vibration in the cabin and no knocking nosie. Worth giving it a bash but I fear it will be too quiet with the 3 boxes.

Very nice touch with the OE exhaust flap. Not listened to the vids yet (at work) but I can imagine what is going to be like. Is that a 3in sytem with one silencer?