Lufbramatt

part number 3A0601027, 6.5x15", 5x100- winter wheels for a VR6 mk4 passat :) look exactly the same as g60 steelies. dunno if VW in the uk would still be able to get them though. Must be something similar for mk4 golfs, octavias etc.

Yandards- legend. Thanks very much for that info, things make sense now! 8)

think the jom top caps might be going back on ebay then :( the top caps ive got are bigger than the spring coil so no chance of the springs falling through, they just dont sit properly. hmmm.

cheers for that photo, i just happened to be looking for exactly that! got my JOM top caps this morning, which seem to have the correct shape for the late top mount but annoyingly dont seem to fit the small PI top coil properly. The diameter of the top cap is about 105mm. :bad-words: could you do me a favour and mesure the diameter of your top cap? it looks like it fits the 92mm top coil a lot better. cheer, matt.

cool, looked sweet as a nut when i saw it a while back, looking forward to new pics :)

good info, am converting the 'ssat to late style top mounts soon. cheers for sharing 8)

on my mates leon 20vt if you press a combination of keys on the climate control it goes into a diagnostic mode and you can scroll through all sort of info- speed, revs, temperature etc up on the climate control screen. I guess this is why the climate control has a tacho signal feed.

out of interest, assuming youve got preoper vag mounts, how much did you pay for them? cheers :)

not a hard job to do yourself to be honest- if youve got a set of screwdrivers and a spare weekend it shoudnt be a problem. im not convinced its a good idea doing it with the dash in, as when mine went the bottom of the heater box was full of coolant and needed tipping upside down to dry out. also the anti freeze rots the foam that covers the control flaps so its a good idea to rip the remains of it off and cover in thin foam from a craft shop or gaffer tape :) hardest bit is not breaking any of the plastic bits by missing screws and pulling stuff too hard lol

7" wide wheel are a bit narrow for stretched tyres tbh- the idea behind stretched tyres was to fit a wider dished wheel on to a car whilst keeping the tread of the tyre under the arches to make it legal. with wheels that wide youre gonna end up needing something like a 165 tyre which doesnt leave you with much tread for actually keeping the car on the road :?

cheers i found some JOM lowering spring caps cheap on ebay which were less than normal vag ones which i wouldve needed anyway so worse situation is i end up with a 50mm drop instead of 40mm 8)

Ive been reading that the late style top mounts raise the front of the car 10mm when you change to them from the old large diameter ones. Ive got a set of front koni struts and PI lowering springs which came off a later car and they have the 92mm top coil- so I need to change my top mounts and spring top caps to the late type. The top mounts on mine need changing anyway so thats not a problem. My question is, as the whole strut and spring came off a later car, will the suspension still be raised up, as I assume the spring will be slightly shorted to compensate and the ride height will effectively be the same as it would be on a later car? Im getting a bit confused and im not sure if i will need a set of lowering spring caps to compensate? I dont want the nose up look :?

ive just got hold of a set of PI springs for my passat and they have the small diameter top coil for the later style top caps+mounts. my car has the early top mounts, which isnt really an issue as they were gonna get replaced anyway, its the spring caps im having trouble with finding. :(

the C is looking great, must be very satisfying admiring your handiwork :) what do you use after youve sprayed to polish up the paint? need some like that for mine- is that price each? £7.50 for a 6cm bit of plastic is a bit steep if it is :shock: ive seen whole sets for about 15 euros on german ebay but heard lots of horror stories about german ebay :(

hmm, i have an idea what it is. the motor may have become slightly out of sync with the mechanism, so when the mech has reached the end of its travel the motor is still trying to run, and the stalled motor draws lots of current and blows the fuse. I would try separating the motor and mechanism (should be some gold coloured torx bolts if its like my passat), operate the motor so that its in the "up" position. Install the mech and the glass (without motor) in the car and mark the position of the two arms in relation to each other when the window is closed. Then remove the mech, make sure its in the right position as it was in the car then bolt the motor back on. It should now be indexed properly. However, there might be a damaged tooth in the mech which cuased it to slip, did it go back up smoothly or did it make a clicky noise?

they do those pop out sockets on vagparts.com, £20 though so probly better off getting it from a breakers. If you want it to be ignition switched then the 12v feed to the heater controls is probably a good choice, meant to carry lots of current for the heater motor. Id add another inline fuse to the added in wire though.

Big thanks to Andy Brookes- very helpful getting pics and the parcel arrived 2 days after I sent the money over! very good service considereing the number of people asking for bits off the VR6. :D Also had good dealings with JayGT a while back, really nice guy and very good communications. Cheers :)

how do the rear ARB's mount on to the axle? is it a case of drilling extra holes and just bolting it to the side of the axle? just trying to work it out in my head . . . has anyone got any pics of one fitted?

sounds like it might be the switch- they have a copper PCB inside which oxidises over time and the contacts stop conducting properly. You have to either get another switch (which might be just as corroded by now), or carefully unclip the casing of the switch and take the pcb out. You have to take the doorcard off to get at it tho. Theres some really tiny ball bearings held in place with some equally tiny springs which make up the "joystick" mechanism so you have to be careful you dont lose those and remember where they came out of . . . once youve got the printed circuit board out clean it up with some 1500 grit wet+dry paper and clean off all the green corrosion from the copper tracks, then reassemble carefully and it should all work properly. other things to check are the wires going throught the rubber boot into the door, they can fracture too.

as its over 15 years old you should be able to put the rado on a classic car policy (assuming your over 21, limited milage and you dont build up no claims) but theyre really cheap. and if youve got a daily youll be getting the no claims off that on a normal fully comp policy. HIC quoted me a LOT less than im currently paying (no mods) with direct line to put the passat on a classic car policy and with all the mods i want to do on it declared, but being a daily it wasnt really practical. Not sure of the service side of things with HIC either but just using it as an example.

dont do it! if something goes wrong youll get no end of hassle, and being a VW something will go wrong but to us guys with the interest in them its all part of it and fixing it is part of the fun of ownership, if hes got no interest and has to take it to a garage every time something breaks youll get grief off him. if it was a car id loved id only sell it to someone far enough away that i wouldnt see it every day to remind me of it . . .

200000 miles is only 2500 miles per year, pretty low really . . . cool story though :)

i was replacing the rotor arm on the passat, it wouldnt come off as it was glued on (worryingly the car had done 170k on what i assume was the orignial rotor arm :S) so i split it off with a pair of mole grips. go to put the new one on to discover VW had given me totally the wrong one :( had to cycle 20 miles in the pouring rain to get it swapped for the right one as the car was immovable. wasnt happy. To be fair the part number on the box was right but it had the wrong part inside! Changed the rear discs and wheel bearings, which went suprizingly well after id resigned myself to hacksawing the ends off the carrier bolts, left the car in the garage all night with the radio on by mistake, by the time i went to move it the following evening the sodding thing wouldnt turn over. oops.

As requested in the other thread, heres the basic wiring diagram i used to uprate the headlihgt wiring. I used 30amp flexible wire all round, 20amp fuses, 30amp relays and soldered conections wherever possible. The fuses should be as close to the battery terminals as possible in case theres a short to the car bodyshell. This plan gives separate relays and fuse for each dip beam and a shared one for the main beams to cut down on parts but retain reliability. You dont want both your dip beams failing due to one fuse blowing! To make it work you have to unplug the dim-dip resistor which is a cylinder tucked under one of the wings about the size of a pack of polo mints, just unplug the yellow wire going to it and your sorted. Most guides forget to mention that you need to put a jumper wire in between the existing loom and the sidelight! The wire colours at the top going to the plugs are the wires in the existing loom, ive taken these colours from my passat so it might be a good idea if someone checks these are right for the 'rado. The wires you need are: drivers side: yellow/black= dip beam green/black= sidelight. passenger side: yellow= dip beam white= main beam green/red= sidelight I left the existing plugs in place and used some plugs from a scrapper to connect in my loom but spade terminals fit straight into the existing plugs if you dont want to cut them off. I put in separate earths for each bulb back to the battery - terminal rather than rely on any existing chassis earths as youre trying to minimise resistance. sorry it looks a bit complicated, its simple really. the 3 circuits are essentially the same.

i did have, was a back of an envelope jobbie though. Ill draw one up tonight and work out the wire colours too and post it up, no probs 8)