dr_mat

MAF voltage output should be dependant on the air flow rate (obviously).. It should peak at less than 5v on a standard VR, and that at full throttle and 6000rpm, so at idle it'll be MUCH lower. BUT the stalling-at-juntions can be caused by so many different things that jumping in and assuming it's the MAF is not the right thing to do. Check the search, but this has been discussed lots of times before. Usually with a different outcome ..

Don't think you can fit a dump valve to a G60 ...?

Do you have any evidence that the car is running lean on one cylinder? Do you get uncontrollable pinking on one cylinder? Do you have VAG-COM throwing up "lean on bank N" or "unable to adapt fuel/air ratio" errors? Do you have lack of power? Do you have problems with rough running? Does it struggle to start in the morning? If you can't say "YES!" to any of the above, I think you're worrying about nothing. Injectors just tick!

Ultimate is 97 RON. Optimax is "unstated", but ~98. I think the reason they did it this way was because they were looking to find out if there WAS a difference, not setting out to find out HOW BIG the difference was. Testing the marketing hype from shell/bp, more than anything else. And the result of the whole thing really just shows that a car that's tuned for 98 produces more power on 98 (um, yeah, obviously!). If they'd had the technology to retune the clio with a bit more ignition advance to take advantage of the 98 octane, it too would have produced a fraction more power. But it wasn't, it was factory tuned for 95 octane, so it got no benefit. The scooby was obviously going to benefit.. let's face it in japan they run them on 101 octane fuel ... Interesting (but unsurprising) comments on the new TT and the Astra VXR though .. (yawn)

I have heard this before - some VRs (early ones?) don't run the aux pump at 100%, but late ones definitely do.

"You are worrying about nothing." Happy now? ;)

Vince told me he gets all the internal engine bits straight from VW, apart from the tappets. VW parts have a 2 year warranty for stuff like that.

Yeah, "no water problems", but note the first post: "flashing oil temperature light" Given that you don't know for sure since you don't have a manual, this is just as likely to be the water level warning light as the oil level warning light. Water level warning light can come on due to faulty sensor in the filler bottle. But if it's oil level warnings, first thing you need to do (which you haven't mentioned so far!) is CHECK THE OIL!!

Felt tips?

WHAT ENGINE U GOT B DUB? Might help for the diagnosis .. ;)

Chains don't change their noise based on throttle position, so I doubt it's that. It could be some sort of resonance rattling some other part of the car, but IMHO it could be pinking or even piston slap or worn crank/rod bearings..

Did you actually change the crank sensor then? If it's showing up as "intermittent" then chances are it's marginal. They usually get worse with higher engine temperatures. I had the exact same driving-along-sudden-loss-of-power that you're talking about above and though it wasn't the engine speed sensor, it WAS the signal from the engine speed sensor (my unichip was faulty, and it remaps the engine speed signal). These two factors tend to suggest a genuine engine speed sensor fault. As for the fuelling problems, that could really be down to lots of things.. You've already swapped the MAF and lambda - the primary culprits. What about this temp senor - is it genuinely faulty? You can see the values it's returning live on vagcom. These are very cheap and if there's any doubt at all you should definitely start here .. The coolant loss being pretty major can mean you've got head gasket issues (had a compression check?), but it can also blow out if the coolant is overheating - there's a pressure release valve. I would expect you to see >110 on the dash before you start losing it from the pressure cap though.. You've got some complicated set of problems there ... ! :(

The only reliable way to know what caused the light to come on is to ask the ABS control unit, via VAGCOM or your favourite error code reader software ..

Yes. Mk2 Golf uses the same parts, iirc.

It's my inherent dislike of smileys. I'm not a nasty person, honest .. Anyway, I like to think of my posts as short and to the point, rather than antagonistic, per se ...

Yes, but bear in mind the "second chance offer" you received minutes after losing the auction was probably not even from the same guy ... Look for these tell-tale signs that it's someone else trying to scam you: - he requests you reply to the mailto:[email protected] email address instead of via ebay's official email system - requests payment via western union money transfer - offers you some mad lower price - sends you an email with subject line "you are a sucker" ...

They don't... But due to genuine (albeit engineered) rarity, they fetch more money for the collectors market. But that's not "most people on here", is it?

It's called "shill bidding" if you want to report it to ebay. Though I have to say mr draco2700 does put a lot of stock on ebay, and if memory serves me correctly, one of the people who has benefitted from his sales is mr kev haywire himself ..

It doesn't say VW will call it the scirocco .. it's just *this* magazine's interpretation of what it'll be called ..

I have to say I've never heard the fuel pump prime in my VR ..

Ooops .. the driver never mentioned faulty brakes in his statement then. Though the report says that the fault would have had no bearing on the accident..

output shaft ...?

Looks like he's edited the ad .. "1993 VOLKSWAGEN Corrado VR6, L reg. -1 miles, metallic charcoal, e/windows abs, e/sunroof, c/coded, 3dr, alloys, c/locking, immoibliser, pas, very good condition, t&t, Average mileage for year eyecatching collectors car. £3,600."

Probably was a dyslexic Toyota owner then. Probably thought he could pick up some tips on cardigans from fellow owners..

You need to breach 100 degrees on the oil to boil out all the dissolved condensation and clear the "mayo".