dr_mat

118 at those speeds is perfectly fine. Or at least "normal". It's up to you if you think it's worthwhile adding an oil cooler. (Note that VR6s run fine in much hotter countries than ours without additional oil coolers...)

And phenomenally low if it's PMPO! :) The amp will work, but if you clip a weak amp you're more likely to destroy the speakers than by overdriving them with a more powerful amp.

Can't say I've had any direct experience of this, but anecdotally I always hear that electrical gremlins follow very closely behind engine bay washes. You'd have to be insanely careful about sealing over every electrical contact and so on. Engine cleaning is safest done with elbow grease, not sprays.

Can't you re-use the old one? Rocker cover gasket isn't usually under much pressure..

Bushes/suspension should be fine at 100k with motorway use. If it was belting down country lanes all day, yes, I'd expect it to need some work.. But you'd be able to tell that sort of stuff pretty quickly just by how tight the car feels.

What do Golf VR6s run at at constant 80 mph cruises then, out of interest? What we're saying mostly though, is that 118 is "normal for an unmodified Corrado VR6". Whether it's a design flaw is another matter.

I agree, but: my VR rarely gets above 114 degrees on the oil. I agree it's nothing to worry about, 118 is well within the acceptable range, but it's *slightly* more than I'd expect to see at a constant 80mph. ** edit - But then, I note that the original poster said "114-118" and didn't say how fast he was cruising, so I'd actually say that's "perfectly normal" then..

From what I hear, the thermostat and housings tend to be all getting leaky/weak at around this sort of age, so it's worth swapping them. 118 degrees on the oil is a little high at 80 mph, and it *could* indeed be related to the thermostat, but you're more likely to see weird behaviour on the water temp first - that will be your biggest clue to thermostat problems.

who was that addressed to, potatonet? The radiator on my VR was replaced before I got it. Obviously the water temp will increase if you're stuck in traffic, but the oil temp should drop steadily until it *matches* the water temp (oil temp on a running VR tends to be greater than 100 degrees). When the fans kick in, it should be able to maintain 95-100 degrees even in totally still air, but you need a LOT of cooling to get it to drop, these engines produce SO much heat. (140kw gets to the wheels, so around another 200kw has to be dissipated as heat at full power output...)

Not enough tick-boxes on the forms they fill in, that's all. Look at it this way, if you have the minimum cat 2 immob, chances are that the only damage if anything happens will be door locks and/or ignition lock. Pretty trivial compared to replacing the car. A cat 1 alarm/immob makes little or no difference to the thief... He still doesn't get away with the car, but can just as easily punch the locks in and test if your flashing red light is real or not..

I find it interesting that even at the massively cheap $19,999 US price for the Corrado VR6 it sold only a handful of cars.. It just didn't have mass appeal. It's too "normal" looking for the boy racers, and it's too impractical for everyone else. The Audi TT has sold like hot cakes cos it looks the part... The mini sold like hot cakes cos of it's history and it happens to be ok.. The Golf sold like hot cakes cos it's practical and reasonably cheap. The Corrado was always going to be a niche market... All that said, if VW were building it's successor now, and charging R32+10% prices for it, and it was as well respected by the motoring press as a driver's car as the original one was, and it had similar subtle styling, then maybe, just maybe, I'd reckon it was worth it. But more likely I'd buy a 12 month old car than a brand new one...

Only if you made one part of the belt more stretched than another part.....

I don't think they can repair *cracks*. Point is, if it's a crack they can't get the resin in between the glass surfaces. Stone chips can be repaired because the surface is open to the air. I picked up a stone chip a few weeks back that IMMEDIATELY generated a 12 inch crack. The MOT regs state that: A chip/crack in the driver's field of view must be contained within a 10mm diameter circle (the 20p piece above is near enough) A chip/crack within the "swept area" of the windscreen wipers, but NOT within the driver's field of view must be contained within a 40mm diameter circle. AFAIK there's only "structural safety" considered outside those areas. If you have a crack through all the laminate layers then the screen MUST be replaced, as it's no longer safe.

Yes, I believe there's bleed nipples on the ABS pump. I'm sure I read that somewhere....

My VR runs slightly lower water temps than that. But then it has a new rad, thermostat, top hose and aux water pump. In this cooler winter weather the water temp will sit at 80-85 on a continuous drive. (No the fan is not stuck on!) But I don't think 90 is anything to worry about.

It simply does the maths: "Fuel used" / "Distance travelled" (averaged over about the last 30 minutes) As has been said above, distance travelled in last 30 minutes does not increase if you're standing still, while "Fuel used" does, even if not by much. Using the "SECRET CODES IN YOUR DASHBOARD" (sic) you can get an instantaneous fuel economy reading. Prepare to be terrified by figures of 11mpg, 9mpg and even 6mpg at full throttle and 5000rpm in 2nd gear... And, of course, ZERO mpg if you are stationary in traffic.

Why do all garages claim there's nothing they can do but replace calipers in these circumstances then?? Makes me sooo mad!!

My work here is done ... :)

I've heard good things about Pristine in the past, but they're not the cheapest of the bunch. I got a quote for my old speedlines some time back and found that buying some good condition but used ones was cheaper by quite a long way, even factoring in paying someone to refit all my tyres and such.

Yes the light should come on then go off. MOT failure if it doesn't... All C VR6s left the factory with ABS. Pulse through the pedals will only be noticeable once you go above 10kph from switch-on.

Henny's yer man for a G60 problem, but I would assume that the timing is now wrong, regardless of the thing you measured your 6 degrees from. Don't dismiss the simplest thing first!

LOL "RARE" They'll buy any old crap, yeah, why not.. :)

Yeah, but garage rates darn sarf puts a two hour job at nearly £200 on it's own. Not worth changing the water pump if you're not convinced it's dead, is it?

We already told him that top heater matrix hose is suspect in the other thread, PARTICULARLY if it's got residue on it. Cheaper than a water pump, isn't it? Run the engine up to temp, then get out the car and let it idle for a short while. Water temp should climb to 100 degrees within a minute or two, and if you've got a leak you'll see/hear it.

For £120..