dr_mat

But VW use ZF and TRW and Lucas steering components, just like all the other car companies. Or do VW specify different components specifically for their cars? And why do they do that?

Whoa dude, bizarre aspect ratio on that first piccie!! :)

Or fuel pump.. Did we rule out the fuel supply? Or the fuel pump fuse..? I'll catch up with this thread one day...

I'd be surprised if a 306 Rallye had learned engine adaptation too.. The 306 engines weren't that advanced... And then there's the point that ECU reset is something that you should only do if you've signficantly modified your engine's characteristics, and you'd like it to learn the new ones QUICKLY, rather than over time. Just resetting the ECU for no apparent reason will generally result in the car running slightly rich for a short while. No other real benefit, it'll still keep learning the same adaptation values. Mine gets done once a year. But that's only because the battery goes flat each time I go on hols... ;)

You would have? And did you in the end?

Right then, that makes sense!! :) And then the next question would be why the hell would someone use ATF instead of PAS fluid?! You don't catch people using chip fat instead of engine oil...

Do it with some urgency - the red stuff (ATF) will damage the seals in your steering pump & steering rack. :shock: I hear this a lot, and I wonder why? Can anyone explain why a PAS fluid (designed for the purpose) might damage the seals on perfectly standard TRW or ZF steering racks, which are fitted to huge numbers of cars from lots of different manufacturers?

Definitely worth replacing your brake fluid - and make sure they bleed through the clutch too. It makes a big difference to the pedal feel. Steering trouble sound awfully like play in the steering rack.. Make sure it's not anything else first though - top mounts, ball joints, track rods/ends etc etc.

Overtaking on a junction is likely to result in the insurance company going 50/50 though, unfortunately for your no claims.. :(

Jedi - when my Schrick was first fitting I was reading 195lbft, but after the ECU leaned off the mixture and "adapted" ( :roll: ) it started pinking and it really dropped right off. Hopefully it'll stay as it is now that the chip is compensating for the standard map's shortcomings...

Every detailed VR6 plot I've seen looks like mine does above. (Certainly the bit above 4krpm where the Schrick isn't really doing any tricks.) The pinking was killing off the whole midrange on mine beforehand. It would pink really badly between 2800 and about 3500, then because the ECU had noticed all the pinking and really really backed off the timing, I wasn't getting the normal 4krpm surge either. Hence the 185lbft! With the pinking dealt with by some judicious fuelling and a bit of additional ignition retard, it's pulling like a train, and you can really feel the shape of that torque curve when you let it pull through in-gear, as I'm sure you can on your car too. I'm pretty pleased with 199lbft on a 122k miler VR6, and I don't really give a monkeys that it reads "only" 199.6 bhp, cos I never go above 5k rpm anyway.. (And anyway, that 199.6 is moot, given that it's a dodgily predicted @crank figure based on approximated transmission losses...)

It's the curse of the 'rado.. How long has it been on the road since the last disaster? :(

Scaling issues... Your plot looks about the same, just less obvious due to the scale... The two torque curves on there are before/after the unichip was fitted. "power so low"? watcha talkin about mate?

Interesting. Maybe that's what AMD's "uprated VSR controlbox" did? Can't say I've noticed a poor response at very low revs since fitting the Schrick, if anything I've always felt it to be at least as good as before. Maybe it was masked by the yawning chasm of torque-free living between there and 3700rpm all the time?

(And your headlight switch will be in 8 pieces in your hand..)

Now now kids... Shall we start again? Mods pull the majority of this thread, thanks. trebor post a figure when you actually know it - i.e. inclusive of import duty which you will most likely have to pay (around 10% then plus VAT on top, IIRC), shipping and your markup (which is what you're talking about, make no mistake here you're representing yourself as a trader in this). It's no use comparing any price with any other price if you don't even know what the prices ARE, is it, regardless of what those prices include...

But not new ones.

Not bad. £950 ish. Import duty? "finders fees"? Presumably you're working for a company and can therefore buy direct, unlike most mere mortals!

You're lucky if £90 represents 20% of your premium..! :roll:

You wanna borrow my .sig?

How much... Kinda need a price! :)

I realise this, but I'll bet the car wasn't MOTd without the cat in place... Has anyone done a proper emissions test on a VW VR6 without the cat? I'd be surprised if a big V6 could manage to get under the emissions regs easily.

Was just about to say.. Top mounts seized can cause this.

Meanwhile, quoting the ad: "A full Magnetex ehhaust system wth cat bypass has been fitted.I still have the old cat." D'you think it'd be churlish to point out to the poor geezer that the car isn't road-worthy cos it'd fail it's MOT without the catalyst...? ;) I'll ignore the spelling of Magnex tho.. :)

Buying anything worth more than £2k and not getting it HPid is a bit stoopid, given the complete lack of comeback if the car turns out to be stolen or cat A/B write off.