dr_mat

We learn something new every day. The sad thing about that is that you now won't learn anything else until tomorrow!! Based on that you may as well go to bed now - the day is written off anyway... ;)

I can't see why you'd want to go through the pain and anguish of adding another hugely expensive, complicated control system to a car filled with little idiosyncrasies anyway.. The benefits of ABS are questionable - truly skilled drivers don't need it (it's not as good as they are), and for the rest of us it's only very rarely beneficial too. But to actually answer your question - you would probably have to source and mount the ABS controller (inside, in the dry), plus the ABS pump/valve block, aswell as redoing all the brake lines that are on the car, and then adding the cable routing and sensor mounting components to the rest of the car and the hubs. I think G60s have ABS, yeah. Dunno if anyone else has actually done this tho - I'm sure I will have missed something... :?:

You would think that, and that's what I thought too, but that is exactly what several people have done to my BJs and not one of them spotted any movement at all... Yet there's noticeably less clunking and wavering under load since changing them...

I should qualify the above statement - I mean that after nearly 120k miles on the car the BJs showed no obvious signs of being loose or damaged, yet they clearly *were*..

Well I can tell you that no-one ever told me my BJs were gone, but it's definitely improved matters by having them replaced...

LOL :)

Top mounts rarely go.. Sure it's not the ball joints?

I have to say the rear shocks made a much bigger difference to the handling of my VR than the fronts. Don't think there was much wrong with the fronts, but there was a huge amount of movement at the rear that's all but gone now having replaced the shocks and bump stops..

We do NOT wanna know about that!!!!!!!!! :shock: ;)

Henny is that the official VAG-supplied "inlet manifold protective gasket" tool on the right of the photo? AKA a "used marigold"?

If the earth strap was duff you wouldn't get power from the battery either tho, surely? Dunno... Still worth checking, but it sounds more like there's something shorting to earth somewhere, probably intermittently. Which is a pain in the butt to track down... :(

That's nothing like me! Ridiculous... :) But I did always admire Waldorf and Stadtler's sense of humour.... ;)

Going back to the problem in hand - if you've replaced the cable, does the new cable actually pull the caliper's spring loaded arm at all when you pull the handle? If the sprung arm is "fully sprung" and refusing to move back to it's rest position then chances are you've got the dead caliper syndrome.. Try forcibly moving the arm on the rear of the caliper. If it moves freely there's something more weird going on...

The "fat" pumps are usually Lead Replacement Petrol - designed to not fit down the filler necks of cars that require UL. Maybe they're reusing some LRP pumps for Ultimate?

Yep, of course. Just take the "flywheel" figure with a large pinch of salt and use the "wheel" figure as the basis for your discussions.

We felt that traction issues were even further OT than discussions about power, torque, gearing and wind resistance... ;)

That's what I wanted to hear.. :)

We would have got there eventually.... :)

That's not the point - the car manufacturer should have made sure that the speedo was accurate (a requirement for UK type approval). If any modifications have been made to the car that alter it's gearing it's the responsibility of whoever does that to make sure that the speedo is recalibrated afterwards.. Of course if you buy the car and it's been fiddled with but you don't know about it, then you probably will never know, and they'll probably never check. But if you get pulled and try to be arsy they can do you for it just as much as if you "didn't know" you had a dead brake light.

Ok, perhaps I should have clarified my point: "But at the end of the day, the torque curve is the one you're interested in, power is secondary." this applies for acceleration performance at speeds well below the point when wind resistance becomes significant. Top speed is more or less purely dependant on power output set against coefficient of drag (i.e. wind resistance). (Assuming logical choices have been made in terms of gearing and so on of course.) (Being pedantic: torque is of course the Force applied, or at least the potential force, not the work itself. Force*distance is work.) For most people with Corrados on British roads, the wind resistance factor doesn't become significant most of the time I'll bet. (130mph+ day to day? You must be insane!) So in other words, I'm not disagreeing with you Kev, and you're not disagreeing with me. (Just for those that claim we always argue..) ;)

No they don't, but if they were to test it and find it's wrong they can consider the car unroadworthy. Basically all I'm saying is if you try to mess with them they can call up all this kind of rubbish to mess right back at ya!

... and this will mean you're driving a car without MOT and insurance, if they *really* want to nit-pick...

(Oh and btw if your speedo is signficantly under-reading they will claim it's not roadworthy and impound it...)

The police will do it every day on traffic cars, just using a known parameter, but doing it more technically you buy a .. calibrated speedo.. ;) Use a GPS or even better a laser speed sensor to calibrate the specialist speedo. (You don't usually alter the car's own speedo, just add another one that can be calibrated.)

GSF do sell 'em and the price is much more reasonable, IIRC. They're still pricier than the fronts tho.