dr_mat

Ok, how many miles on your suspension components? You might wanna consider checking the rear axle bushes and wheel bearings, plus checking out the front BJs and co then.

You might just need a replacement cable! The handbrake is completely rubbish though, it's true they don't produce much braking force, no matter how hard you apply it. The only thing I can't answer is how much it *should* produce on an average, fully functional Corrado.

Ball joints can flop around all over the place and cause weaving, but usually all they do is accentuate the effect of the forces applied to the wheel - i.e. they make camber following and bump-steer much worse. IMHO. The description says "weaving", not "pulling to one side" - we need more clarification from the man with the problem! :)

I doubt the calipers are working unevenly if it's weaving. It would pull to one side consistently if that were the case. Weaving is most likely camber following, they all do that to some extent, but this will get noticeably worse if there's ANY play in any suspension joints at all, or if the tracking is out. So you want to be thinking about ball joints, wishbone bushes, track rods, top mounts and so on.

I finally understand what the nomenclature means now... Never knew that. :)

You mean it has a hole in it!? :) I'd imagine that will be easily rectified by replacing it with a new one!

I do not speak from experience... Tho I do wear contacts... ;)

Some people *really* love their cars....

Could be a mouse with a really bad cold living in the glove box.

We don't have a clue!! It's earthing, or supply, or every single sensor has gone bonkers! I'd suggest you start at the battery and work both ways from there with a voltmeter on various circuits till you find something weird!!! (Do the basics first - what's the accross-the-battery voltage when the engine's running and not running etc.)

When the rear mount dies, I'll do something about it. I wouldn't be *that* surprised, but there's not too much movement at the mo, so I'll live with it.. :) As an aside, the Leon Cupra R in Stealth on the rollers last saturday (1.8T - yawn!) - it's engine was bucking like an Agent Provocateur underwear advert under load, so it's not unusual to see a bit of movement.....

It was your passenger trying to slow you down.. Didn't you notice?? ;)

Well my gearbox mount had gone a while back anyway, so that one was new. I've not replaced the main rear engine mount yet, but as it's only under compression when the engine is loaded I don't think it's so vital. The front mount is critical, cos it carries all the force of the engine when it's pulling the car forwards.

It seems to me that most ICE is about SPL and not THD ...

Constant Velocity .. Normal "Universal Joints" don't transmit the rotation smoothly through a bend. A CV joint (as it's name suggests) transmits the rotation on a 1:1 basis from the input to the output, no matter what angle the joint is at. A UJ transmits the rotation with a massive variation in speed through a full revolution - depending on the angle of the joint, it can be very significant.

As for my (one and only) VT mount kev, yeah I took some persuasion. But the main reason I did it was because I was going to replace the mount *anyway*, due to it being original and me whacking a big torque booster on the car, and the Schrick being close to the underside of the bonnet yada yada.. Primary concern was really keeping the Schrick under control, but the handling and gear change does benefit too (not all of the perceived improvement can be put down to the clutch change I did at the same time I'm sure).

And VT too... (And as for my wallet, the moths had moved out because they couldn't stand the isolation!!)

How did you put the original wipers on the Lupo arms?

You'll probably have to lie them all out side by side and see what's different. Best bet is to take an engine+loom+ecu as a single unit if you're doing this stuff, IMHO. (Not that I'm an expert...)

OBD2 has an electronic throttle body for a start, OBD1 doesn't. Forget it, not worth it.

Bargain! I'm surprised it's only £550 from VW. Peugeot wanted £650+VAT for a new 206 ECU (only the 1.4 engine too!). Which ECU reconditioning companies have you tried? I've spoken to a couple, can't find the numbers right now...

But note that they wear out really quick.. You'll be back to smeary juddery windows in 6 months, even if you hardly ever use them. :(

"Extreme Ironing"? http://www.extremeironing.com/ LOL

Right, that's fine of course. Most power convertors I've seen run from the ciggie lighter, which is of course subject to the vagueries of the car's wiring loom and the fuse associated in the fuse board... Would also be handy if you suddenly need to do some ironing..! :)

Hmm. I hope whoever did your last cambelt replaced the tensioner pulley too... I don't know the 16v engine very well, so I don't know exactly how much play to expect, but this doesn't really sound right to me..