G60_edge

Ok, I'll take it please. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rear boot lid damper still available ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, I'll take the clocks please. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the clocks all in working order. Did the spoiler work with them? Do you know the mileage on them? Thanks Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I already have a bonnet in the wrong colour. Was after a quick and cheap option before sorting with a re-spray. Might be wishful thinking though! Thanks anyway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone got one, dent free Cheers Al Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the clocks still available? Do you know if they are the same as G60 clocks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good call. I'll look into that and let you know. Thanks Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

Evening all, Anybody found a replacement to the G60 check valve that comes off the brake servo that also has the boost gauge connection to it. I managed to melt mine when I put my 20vT engine back in and run it for the first time without a heat shield on the exhaust manifold. So looking for a replacement that I can buy and attach to the pipe from the brake servo cutback to a more convenient position for the conversion. However, the pipe looks pretty awkward to work with and not a conventional size for off the shelf check valves. Anybody done anything similar. Just asked VW for price on a new one, but anticipating it being expensive and also doesn't really position it where I want (as it comes with the pipe attached). Thanks in advance Alex

Could I get a kit B? Thanks Alex

Hi, I'm after a K04 exhaust/turbine housing as mine has cracked. Anybody got a good one lying about they don't want. Preferably a 023, but not too bothered. Thanks Alex

I've got 2 bases as well, in oxfordshire though.

Sounds good then, I'll take this please. Will drop you a pm

I've got early interior. Do you know the difference? Thanks Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Cable has snapped in mine so I need a replacement. Think I need the entire mechanism and motor. Let me know what you've got. Thanks Alex Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Well done for spotting that and trying. Did you try pin 81 as well?

no worries, That's interestign about the lambda working after the fault codes going. I wasn't going to bother with the remaining fault codes I had and get them coded out when remappped. I'll check my lambda in more detail as I might have to change my plan. Good info, cheers. Good fun driving with the new engine though!

Answered my own question The green wire is the in cabin connection from fuse box to clock for the tach. I was getting confused with a spare green wire I had in the engine bay. For my G60 ECU it looks like the green wire to pin 16 is something to do with the A/C.

Thats what I've done and it doesn't work for me, g1/12 is green/yellow though (in the bay). My rev counter moves but the scaling and sensitivity are wrong. I'm 92 G60 though so think late clocks. What defines early/late clocks is it the digital odometer? I thought I was going to get away without an adpator on late clocks. I'm intrigued about this green wire on U1/6 what does it actually do?

Yes, 3 wires on alternator. Battery, clocks and ECU. Interesting about the N249, when connected and plumbed in it limits boost in standard form from what I remember when looking. I could try a resistor across it and see if it runs different. Have you tried disconnecting yours to see if the fault code limits boost? Connect up the alternator and see if that fixes you ECU relay code, otherwise we can compare wiring of the ECU power. The G60 is different to the TT as you have the fuel pump and ECU relay whereas the TT just had the fuel pump relay from what I can remember from the wiring diagram. So there are options on which you use. Can't see it mattering but you never know. Does your throttle body whine with the ignition on? Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

No, I've not got N112 connected or a resistor. I have 6 error codes that won't clear all of which are expected, see below. I've got constant 12v to pin 62, straight from the battery. I've got switched live (line 15, Corrado G1/4) connected to APX ECU pin 3 (black) I haven't updated my wiring document to what I did with the alternator wiring so will have to check on the car. I've definitely got pin W connected. I'll check my wiring and let you know. I still haven't got my tach working though. 18084 - EPC Warning Lamp (K132) Circuit P1676 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction 17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) P1433 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) P1432 - 35-00 - Open Circuit 17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller P1523 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal 18057 - Powertrain Data Bus P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent 17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit ---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 PM ---------- looking back through the wiring diagrams I'm prrety sure I would have connected pin W up to the ECU. Not sure what it did but seemed like a good idea at the time. The other wire off the alternator is conencted up to the dash. I'll double check on the car though tomorrow.

I've put a resistor in for N80. I was told that this is one of the sensors you need as without, the ECU adaption isn't saved between starts. The resistor works as I don't have an error code for it. If you have the sensor you can obviously plug it in without plumbing it in. I'll have to check out those measuring blocks, not too sure what I'm looking for though! Plumbed in my boost gauge on Sat, peaks at around 1bar and then runs at about 0.8/0.9 bar on full throttle, this is on std map. What does your run? Also appear to have leaking oil from around the turbo somewhere, I fear my one of my oil seals may be shot, need to investigate.

my abs light was on before the conversion because of knackered rear abs sensor from when I rebuilt the rear end. I don't think the ECU should effect anything though, make sure all you sensors are plugged in and reading right. I've got a jetex on with no cat. The exhaust is actaully pretty quiet which I like, it's the induction and dumping the boost that sounds evil! I reckon mines overfuelling, need to check lambda working right.

servo vacuum sorted now, now taken off manifold. Bit of a better drive today, it sounds evil!

Looking good, I moved my battery over to the other side of the bay. Made a new tray up today. I'll post up some pics of mine to compare. Another question for you. Where and how are you running the vacuum for brake servo. I'm taking mine out of the inlet but my brake seemed dreadful on first drive today.