monzablau16v

Hi, looking for a decent iphone mount. Something which would fix to the right side of the windscreen/steering wheel (i dont like mounting stuff in the middle of the screen). It could attach to either the screen or the airvent. Just needs to look classy and not like it was made in a school project! what have you guys got, pics would be lovely! cheers

you guys are awesome! thanks

cheers for that, ill see if i can get my head around the wedges thing! but i think its the little corner "plugs" which is what i need as the bumper is not aligned correctly where it meets the rear wheel arch. I just thought there was something that is fixed to the body, which those "plugs" fit into? ta H

having this same issue - trying to get the rear bumper aligned and need to get the plastic supports that fit to the body. Anyone know the part numbers for these items? Cant find them myself in ETKA. car not with me at the moment, so if anyone has a pic of their C with the rear bumper off and how it fixes to the body then that would be awesome! cheers

got the car back together after installing my SP263 cams .... was so nervous "priming" the car with the crank sensor disconnected. I obviously followed the guides and advice on the forums / wiki and made sure I turned the engine by hand first (probably 20 times!) to make sure there was no metal to metal contact! But even so i was still nervous as this was the first time id done any major work to the VR engine... So i fired her up and it sounded fine (WHAT A RELIEF!). Took it for a quick 5 minute spin and all seemed fine, no oil light and no knocking or banging from the chain side. Felt very happy, until i parked back home, had some dinner and then went back to see a puddle under the car and dripping from the lowest point near the bell housing to block plate :gag: spent the next hour convinced it was oil leaking from where the upper cam cover bolts to the block. Must have removed/instaled the blimmin coilpack ten times trying to find the source. Asked my mate and it turns our that is it gearbox oil... Looks like the box is leaking oil and it is a gearbox off job :( The box was rebuilt less than 5000 miles ago and had the seals replaced when i got a peloquin diff and a 3.68 drive installed as well as having the timing chains done. Its at times like this a person starts to loose faith :shrug:

hi mate, take a look at my thread. I am upgrading my car audio at the moment and i modified the tweeter housings to take my new tweeters. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=92634 hope it helps...

anyone know if Sikaflex 255 adhesive is suitable for this purpose?

Lovely, cheers so did my previous post make sense about my next steps and the order to remove the existing cams? Ta

a bit more confused... Kev, you mentioned the rear cam (the longer of the two) has the trigger wheel. Just wondering why it does not show up on ETKA? Is it becuase that photo is for a dizzy engine which has a different setup? is it just ETKA that is missing the correct picture or am i losing my marbles? thanks!!!

ok thanks for the clarificiation... can you clear up something for me. I have got to the stage where the cam cover is off, the cams are exposed, i got TDC on number 1 and the cams are "locked" in place with my self made metal cam alignment tool. So, i believe my next steps are: 1) undo chain tensioner bolt 2) undo bearing caps (using sequence from bently manual) 3) remove old cams (i should be able to do this without removing the sprocket bolts right?) 4) on the new cams going in, remove sprocket nut and then sprocket on the rear cam (the one without the cam trigger wheel). My 263 cams can be seen here (http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=94100&p=1083386#p1083386) 4) re-insert new cams taking note of the orientation and making sure the slots are alighned with the head as the old cams were before they came out 5) replace bearing caps 6) fit sprocket back onto exhaust cam whilst jiggling it so it sits into the chain this is the step which i am most unsure of at the moment... i got a full write up with photos which ill put up in my post in the membors gallery, once everything is done and my car is running properly (hopefully!!!) cheers!

invest in a nice warm sleeping bag chop off a few limbs so you (and your kitchen appliances, and rifle) can fit into the boot of the car. await aforementioed toerag to attempt theft "here's johnny"... hide body in bushes, or get some of them pigs/hogs that can munch through flesh and bone (like in the film Hannibal) the end, everyone lives happily ever after, god bless the Corrado

Cam Change So i got my mitts on some Schimmel 263 cams :clap: I was surprised that the cams didnt have anything showing they were SP263 cams :confused4: nothing on the slotted ends of the cams there may have been something behind the sprockets, but i got the cams with the sprockets already attached so ill have to take one off to see if there is anything under there! Think i need to do this anyway to aid in the install of the cams, so eitherway one of the sprockets has to come off... all i could see was a little egg shaped logo and some letters, BH , V and Z bonus, the cam position sensor /wheel installed already

Headlining and interior retrim in Alcantara continued... OK, nearly finished putting it all back in now. I just need to sort out the rear plastic headlining trim (once i get around to recovering that in alcantara too). Still trying to sort out the white sunroof / interior light switch...but that can be done as and when time permits. Finally, the interior rubber/cloth trim between the headlining and the interior sunroof panel still needs to be colour coded and replaced (hence why there is a gap in the headlining around the sunroof aperture).

Headlining and interior retrim in Alcantara continued... OK, so its been a while since i posted some updates! Firstly, the b4stard C-pillar trims. Took me aaaages doing these as they are so fiddly. Very pleased with the end results though... one big happy family, although some bits are missing.... So onto the B-pillar's. I figured that I couldn't do a good job by trying to strech the Alcantara as the curve was just too big. Therefore I enlisted the services of Andy at AJ trimmers in Bourne End. I think the results speak for themself...I was over the (blue) moon when i picked them up Got him to make a little window for the seatbelt adjuster. He could have had the material tucked over into the aperture, but that would have meant trying to crack open the plastic welding over the other side to take the sliding mechanism and the runners out. I thought about it and decided against it seeing as Corrado plastic is so brittle, it was bound to crack! I think this option looks just as good and i like the stitching around the hole too Next were the pesky sunvisors. Again, i got Andy to tackle these because the last thing i stitched was in school, and that's going on twenty years ago now! May leave the grey trim as it is .. or may paint it. Will decide once i have all the trim in the car and i can see it all together. If it looks cack and out of place then i can just whip off the visors and spray them little bits up. And last but not least.... it's the little things in life [edit 28AUG11 : Got some the last two bits in from Andy...now I can start putting it all back in the car!] Inner sunroof panel trimmed, and as you can see I also bought a new genuine leather VW gearknob Gaiter turned out great I had a go at covering the seatbelt covers and i think they turned out quite good

Headlining and interior retrim in Alcantara continued... then it was a case of sorting out the sunroof panel and the switch surround... then the panel that clips into the sunroof panel

Headlining and interior retrim in Alcantara So i decided that i didnt want to put the original cream/grey headlining back into the car and I also wanted to sort out the A,B and C pillars are they were showing their age. I bought some genuine black alcantara, and to give it that subtle difference i opted for the perforated style. Also got some Evostick impact adhesive (crazy sticky stuff!) and some high temp spray adhesive (called fast-fix spray adhesive - rated upto 120 degrees celcius). Evostick was used to wrap and secure the alcantara over the edges and the fast-fix was used for the flat surfaces. Dont think the material will be going anywhere in a hurry! This stuff dont come cheap! But it looks and feels soooo nice Buy the larger size tin - you will need it! (i ended up buying two of these size tins as my first ran out.. doh) I bought this on eBay from a seller called as-trim Photos really dont do them justice.... they look so different in "real life".. The first a-pillars took me around 5 hours to do and the second probably like 2 hours. I'm sure a pro does them in like 30 minutes, but this was the first time i had ever attempted anything like this...so there was a learning curve. anyway, onto the headlining This bit took the longest time getting it to sit right. The curves and uneven heights meant a lot of messing around trying to get the fabric to sit right without creases or wrinkles. Luckily alcantara is slightly stretchy so you can kind of pull it taught. Think i spent about two hours on this bit alone! The finished article. Took me about 10 hours to complete the headlining. To say im happy with the end result is an understatement Holes for the sunvisor mounting points (i know i know... the sunvisors need to *somehow* turn black too - not sure how im going to do them yet)

RESERVED FOR UPDATES

,,,

Went along each edge of the doorcard and bonded the leather back to the card panel using evostick impact adhesive (evil stuff!). This took friggin ages (probably 4 hours on each card as i had to wait for things to dry before moving on). Doorcards look like new now and I am very happy to put them back in the car!

The doorcards were in a pretty sad state and apart from the general grubby appearance, all the edges were peeling away from the backing.

Some more photos of the filler / sanding prep Gotta apologise but i didnt get the chance to take photos of the dyeing stages! But the only thing i would advise to anyone else trying this is to NOT get the little compressor spray cans from the kit. Save your money and hire a compressor or buy one. I tried at first with the cans (as i was being lazy and coulndt be bothered to get it setup with my huge compressor in the garage). You just get a lot of splattering and waste a lot of dye/satin gloss. Once i pulled my finger out, i got it on the compressor and it was a doddle! Excuse the white dots, it was drizzling when i took these photos I ordered a new tilt handle and surround as well. Cant find the part number off hand but it wasnt that expensive and neatens everything up Happy with the results. Not 100%, but definitely a lot better than before and worth the time! Just need to wait for the weather to sort itself out and then I can get onto the driver side. I managed to buy a genuinue bolster which will be fitted as the current one is well and truely battered.

Cable tie is used to secure the wire for the heating element that goes into the backrest. Little grey bobin has a scew which needs undoing. Just prised off the metal cover from the pivot Backrest separated from base. Only thing connecting the two now is the wire for the heating element. Gotta be very careful not to damage that whilst refurbishing the seat! More filth! Heating element cable and even more dirt Those clips that need bending to release the leather covers Front of the base free now Leather covering off. Well i found a few pennies, sweetie wrappers, a straw and other random things preserved in the seats! Back of the base foam and leather covering. The silver clips pull the covering taught over the foam base. Closeup of the bolsters Started to prep the leather. Full instructions come with the kit, just took my time and followed them to the letter. Here i had applied the filler to get rid of the creasing and cracking in the leather. Be careful as not all the base is leather, the side "flaps" are vinyl and no amount of leather prep is going to work on them :) (Although i did clean them anyway ready for the dye/spraying later on) Top backrest bolsters fillered as well. It took me a whole weekend to get to this stage as the filler needed time to dry before being worked with the fine grit sandpaper. I removed the headrests to make it easier to handle the seats (they were also refurbished - again the front and back are leather, the sides are vinyl)

So the seats after over 140K were started to look a little battered. In fairness the passenger side wasn't really that bad, most the damage was on the driver's side. Nonetheless I decided to refurb the seats. I bought the kit from the furniture clinic and decided to give it a go. Started with the passenger seat (so I could still drive the car whilst i took my time getting the seat done..) So quite a lot of creasing and wear on the bolsters. Doorcards looked very dull and in need of a revamp too (but ill get to them another time...) Passenger Seat removed from car Odd sticky marks which looked like ground on bubblegum. Seats didnt look like they had ever had a leather cleanse or conditioning in their lives. So I started dismantling the seats. These little plastic plugs need pushing out. I think there are three if i remember right... Luckily all the plastic lugs were intact so i didnt need to get another one of these. Cant imagine they are cheap (if you can still even get them) This little metal circlip retainer needs removing to unhinge the backrest from the base The cable connected to the tilt handle needs uncliping as well. There was an insane amount of grit, grime and hairs in the crevices. It all got cleaned and new grease applied once everything was apart. Part number on seat base (metal frame) The little bronze clips need bending to allow them to release the metal retaining bar. This is how the leather is "stretched" over the foam padding and secured to the metal seat frame. The plug from the heated wiring loom. Glad to say i didnt have any issues here, both seats heated fine.

Rear Hatch Random side shot Front bumper iron was blasted and powdercoated to keep it all fresh (I hate putting rusty things back onto a car!) Got the car back home and waited a few weeks and then gave her a wash and a little TLC in the form of dodo juice purple haze (the wax is applied by hand and takes ages, but the results are immense!) Washing Gotta love that pearlescent paint Got a new gen VW foglight ready to go on to replace the cracked one... Looking much nicer without the big dents and scrapes! The results of a good clean, dodo juice lime cleanser, a light buff and then wax with dodo juice purple haze. I was very happy with the results (excuse the splatter on the windscreen and wipers)

So I guess a man and his Corrado can only take so much damage before something needs to be done about it.... :) Car was booked into the bodyshop and i decided to get the whole car resprayed. Not all the intermediate photos are shown as i couldnt get to the bodyshop at each stage...but most of the story is told by these pics. Front screen out and recess rust treated and primered Front end off Passenger side primered Rear Bumper all new and shiney Front Bumper Rear Spoiler Rear Hatch plinth mmm fresh mystic blue paint Rear quarter windows taken out to get the job done properly front end taking shape Filler Cap Masking taped wheels help drive in the snow, honestly... Driver Side Driver Side rear quarter sunroof, wing mirrors and bonnet were also removed to be resprayed. I sourced another driver door to replace the one that was mashed by the hit and run driver. Most of the rubber seals and moulding were removed and replaced (and didnt my wallet know it!). I'll post in another update pics of the new roof plastic runners, door rubbers/seals and other misc items which have the Corrado tax applied to them!