monzablau16v

Was on the way to work this beautiful sunny morning, couple of ladies pulled up next to me at the lights. Didn't notice them till i heard one of them shout "that's a beautiful car, don't see many around" followed by some strange gesticulations. I said thanks and drove off with a little smile... ahhh happy days I :luvlove: my Corrado lol

looks like it is the right part if this website is correct: http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9103_E-code-Headlight-Bezel-Clip---VW-Corrado.html

awesome, very much appreciate you taking the time to do that! Let me know what tyre size are on the wheels too as that is my next decision! So as previously suggested by bristolbaron (cheers) i could run : 205/40 FRONT 215/40 REAR Was looking to get: FRONT: 205/45 R16 Googyear eagle F1 GS-D3 (used to have these on my old BBS RMs on my Mk2 golf and loved them - bit soft but immense grip). Can't seem to find decent 205/40 tyres??? REAR: 215/40 R16 Hankook Vento V12 Evo(I heard very good things about them and they are like £63 each which i think is quite cheap) think it will be ok to mix n match 45 profile front and 40's rear? ta

hope you didn't leave any stains! :nuts:

lovely, just managed to bag a bargain (or from looking at H&R prices it seems like it is!) I got a full set (front and back axle) of H&R 30mm adapters. Apparently only done 5K and are in good condition (have to wait till i get them to see for myself - although photos look good). also included are: 20 Adapter to hub bolts 20 Wheel nuts (the adapters are the ones with the studs - Brucie bonus as that is exactly what i wanted) 4 genuine Porsche locking nuts - apparently over £40 on their own... I think that's pretty good for just over £150...

Still not working for me. Have you tried the russian ETKA thing? http://www.ergonauto.ru/catalog_in/cat.php?idmodel=15129&idmark=134&atype=8 Google translate is your friend (err unless you know your Russian!)

if you go R32 sump route then u will need the stubbier R32 oil pump too then from what i have read (it has a shorter "spout")

Mulberry (i think cos it was dark) with registration M*** URE down the Bath road on Slough, think you were getting a kebab from the van near the Bingo hall lol :norty: car looked nice - very standard and straight!

just looked at your photos - fark me.... if i dropped my car as low as yours i would get beached on the first speed bump down my road! :grin: Gonna keep it a sensible height so i can acutally drive the damn thing...just need to confirm the inner clearance on the rears by someone running 8x16" ET 52.3's...so i can confirm the adaptor thickness. Think the fronts are sorted: 35mm, i like the look of Leon263's front end (ohhh errr :camp: ) cheers

thanks for the photos buddy - really useful. Can I ask you how much clearance you get on the rears between the tyre and the suspension strut? Are you running on coilovers or Shocks'n'Springs? also what adaptors did you get? H&R? ta!

cheers mate... So i guess i want it to look phat/wide...but not so much so that it compromises handling (heard that running too wide causes tramlining???). I use my car as an everyday driver so these wheels are stricktly summer wheels, but again to be used daily. If i get 30mm on the back will that be ok - are my calculations correct? It just seems a bit odd that the wheels would be +40mm from standard? Just need to know from someone who has got the same combination of wheel on their car as i know it can be a knightmare trying to get the right adaptor/wheel/tyre combination! Also i dont mind a teeny weenie tyre stretch, but nothing drastic - roads round here are getting worse and worse! So what tyres would i use for fronts and what about the wider rears - do i need to maintain "rolling radius" to keep my speedo semi-accurate? (not sure if i am chatting out my butthole on that last comment!) :gag: ta!

Hi guys, Can someone please check over the following for me please? Info: My car is a late VR6 currently running the original 15" BBS Solitudes. Theses are 15"x 6.5" ET43 My arches have been "rolled" by which i mean that the lip is not there to catch the tyres, however they are the standard size (i.e not flared out) - hope that makes sense! I am currently running a fairly sensible drop on KONI coilovers (id say about -25mm from standard ride height) I am soon to be picking up some Porche 928 wheels : Fronts: 7x16 ET 65 Rears: 8x16 ET 52.3 I have plugged the info into those offset calculators online and this is what it spits out: FRONT: "The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 28mm LESS The outside edge of the wheel will RETRACT in towards the body by 16mm" REAR: "The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 28mm LESS The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 10mm" SO: Can anyone confirm that I need to get the following thickness 5x130 > 5x100 adaptors: FRONTS: 20mm does this effectively means that inner clearance would be -8mm from standard and outer clearance would be +4mm I assume i could get away with the -8mm and it wont foul on the suspension strut? REARS: 30mm does this effectively means that inner clearance would be +2mm from standard and outer clearance would be +40mm +40mm sounds a lot!?! But is this the compromise with 8" ET53.2 wheels? Any reccomendations on which adaptors to get (alloy, s.steel, hubcentric, bolts + studs...)? I read that it is worthwile getting ones with pre-inserted studs for the Porche wheels to fit over - makes installation a lot easier than using just normal wheel bolts?? Any thoughts / concerns about this guy selling adapters on eBay? He does them in Steel + Zinc Plating OR Stainless Steel.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hub-centric-Wheel-Adaptors-VW-Porsche-Custom-Made-/250630206071?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5ab97277 finally - what size tyres should I be getting? thanks for your assistance! :notworthy:

Early Silver Carrado down the Bath road in Slough this morning...anyone off these forums?

Yeah that drives me potty also. On the odd occasion I clean my car, I don't want to be running round it with a chamois every 10 minutes mopping up said water traps dribbling down the car! That's easy to rectify, it just takes a long time to trace and damp the offending parts with foam / felt. More hates:- If you lower the car more than inch, you can't get a decent sized workshop jack onto the proper strengthened front box section, so you have to use the scissor jack to jack it up onto the workshop jack! Too much damper droop, meaning you have to bend the body in half to get the front wheel high enough to clear the deck! Doors close back onto your shins if not open far enough, which leads me nicely onto getting into /out of the car when some tool parks very close to you due to the doors being heavy and 4 miles long. Front seats back rests don't stay tilted if the bum bit is set too low Adjustable column is either too high or too low, there isn't enough adjustment range (for me at least) Windows rattle over bumps when fully open or slightly ajar But we love them really :D[/quote:2u4ttic3] Just spent the last twenty minutes using the search to find someone who has this same hate! It drives me mental trying to get out my car when someone has parked too close. The door mechanism doesn't keep the door open unless you open the door like 2 feet! I swear it would be easier to get out the frikkin sunroof sometimes the way people park so damn close! (getting back into the car is hilarious - almost like some circus act!) Anyone got any good ideas of adjusting the linkage or adding some sort of mechanism to allow the door to stay open closer to the body, but giving enough room to just get out? Id pay good money for that mod! :help: p.s i kinda like the three staged "roller pin system" that newer VW's use which would be the ideal solution to this issue we have!

has anyone got photos of how they have applied sound deadening material to their door skins? so far i have done this using roofing flash tape ... just need to know how far to go and if i need any more? I also just found a roll of brownbread material (obviously would have used this instead of the flash tape had i found it sooner) but i wondered if it was worthwhile adding over the top of the already applied flashtape? any ideas? taa

ok, so if i have this right, all i need to do is unbolt the two bolts which hold the glass to the regulator and then drop it down. From what i can see it will just let it slide down a few cm... is that right? I guess i just wind down the window till i can get to the bolts from the holes (marked by the red boxes in this photo)

Hi, i had my Golf written off (twice - no $hit!). They wanted to right it off, which they did but as a CATD so i purchased it back and had it repaired. I think that as long as it is not CAT A or B then you should have the opportunity to purchase the vehicle back from the insurance company and put it back on the road (subject to further testing / passing MOT etc). Obviously the hard thing is agreeing the vaule of the car with the insurance company. I had an independant VW specialists send me a cover letter stating that my car was rare and a collectors car (which it kinda was being a Monza Blue 16v)... sent it to them with some other autotrader ads and they eventually paid out what i considered was a fair price. Good luck fella, trust me i am still gutted about my car which lives in scrapyard heaven after it got written off the second time by a taxi driver who didnt realise the middle pedal is used to brake :cry:

Hello folks! looking to FINALLY sort out the ICE in my car, after two years of driving around with my Sony minidisc player listening to the same ones over and over again :D So i am not looking to go all out on the install and would like to make it looking as stealth as possible. Here are my thoughts: 1) Head Unit (max budget £250) Gotta be Alpine as I have an alpine MP3 CD changer (AiNET) already so want to utilise that Need to be able to connect to my iPhone and other USB devices Quick search came up with this: Alpine iDA-X305S and its bang on £250... Anyone got any experience of this model? I have had a few Alpines in the past and they have been rock solid. 2) Front component Speakers (max budget £250) Looking at keeping the factory 5 1/4" (13cm) size just so i dont need to change doorpods and to keep it looking stealth. Selection from the following: > Rainbow RAINBOW-SLC230 (£230) > Focal 130VRS (£230) > Boston Acoustics Pro50se (£280 - just outside of budget but will consider if worth the extra...) slightly cheaper options (will consider if it is not worth paying extra for any of the above..) : > Rainbow Dream Line SAX230.20 (£170) > Focal 130VR (£199) 3) AMP so right now i got a few amps from previous builds: Phoenix Gold Titanium 600.2 (2 channel rated at 600W RMS) Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 (4 channel with PG cert showing it is rated at 582W RMS!) Alpine MRV-1005 (2 channel rated at 100w) Alpine MRV-F307 (4/3/2 channel: 30W per channel into 4ohms / 80W bridged into 4ohms) Need to have them hidden away. So would love to get whatever i choose mounted in passenger footwell (covered and hidden - need to think about airflow / cooling) OR maybe in the rear quarter behind the doorcard - i did this with the PG 600.2 on my old MK2 golf and it worked perfectly 4) SUB Again, got these two lying about so would like to just use one of them... 10" Mac Audio OR 12" Kicker Solobaric S12L7 (2ohm version) Ideally would like a moulded enclosure in the boot to take up minimum room and retain use of boot. So the dillemma is trying to figure out what combination of amp and speakers to go for that doesnt mean i have gone OTT on the ICE. Id love to use the kicker but then i guess id have to have a bigger enclosure for the sub and that means more space. Plus i think id have to use two amps, one for the components and one for the sub??? OR could i run the components off the headunit and just amp the sub. Any suggestions from people? Basically i am looking for quality sounds, dont really need really loud sounds that knock fillings out of teeth, just crisp punchy bass and clarity! thanks

Brake Pedal Position Sensor - VW Part 357 927 810.jpg[/attachment:3mkwarcd] Fits all Corrados from chassis 50MK014975 onwards if RHD and fitted with ABS. ----------- Part in the photos looks like the ones I have as spares. . top man, cheers!

cheers, just wanted to check something, when you say unblot the window --> as far as i can tell my window is bonded to the electric window mech...see my other post here with photos http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=89914#p1063666 so i was going to get a local windscreen repair guy to rebond the runner to the window last week, but then thought that if for some reason i have to remove the glass completly to fit this outter window guide i am buggere, so i have not yet had it rebonded. So are you saying: 1) i need to take off the bond on the other runner as well now 2) then remove the glass completely 3) and then fit this guide seal 4) and then put the glass back in 5) get it rebonded onto both guides can you clarify please? thanks again.

just about to tackle this myself as part of my door rattle refurb! It would be great to get some full instructions from someone who has done these tasks (maybe with photos?) In addition i am going to be replacing the window guide (see here : http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=92594 ) I be happy to take photos when i attempt mine once i have all the info in advance to trying to tackle this task. Thanks!

Anyone got any tips on how to do this? I really just need to know if this can be done without removing the door glass? It is the outter seal which the door glass slides up and down in (the channel) and has the little felt insert. Dont wanna fcuk this up as it cost me over 100 notes!!! cheers! Part in question is #28 on this diagram

Was thinking the same thing! Tell him your name is [strike:29d5qpl5]Gordon Brown[/strike:29d5qpl5] David-Nick CameronClegg :norty: 10 Downing St London xxx xxx Bank Details. Bank of England Threadneedle St London EC2R and say the payment must arrive before 6th may as you may be away after that

can someone list all the other possible vehicles that this part was used on please? Just want to keep an eye out at the breakers next time i am there... Would also be interested in any alternative supplier route you can find Vince... cheers H

i have done this on my car. It can be fiddly and you will get petrol on your hands unless the tank is really drained. In all honesty though, as long as you can get the plastic black cap off (go gently with the hammer and screwdriver) then you just need to take off the hose clips and remember where everything went. The pump itself "screws" to the bottom of the tank which can also be a little hard removing and then replacing... Take some photos as you remove pipes and clips so you know their orientation when putting everything back together. Mine took me just over an hour to sort out from start to finish. good luck!