ProdigalSon

Hmm, that's a shame that the slave and pipe are both broken. :roll: I wouldn't risk putting a second-hand pipe on, just get a new one from VW - think they may have used the same part on much later cars, so not hard to get hold of, and not insanely expensive, if I remember well. Good luck with the swap-out, good news is that the bleed will take you longer than the fitment of the actual parts :)

Thanks Supercharged - just hoping that the slightly softer feel is not air in the ABS - sounds like a mission to sort that out :shock: Don't remember messing with the rear bias valve, although we did run about 1 litre of fluid through both rear lines until it was fresh, clear and gas-free. Maybe just took longer as the pressure wasn't all going to the rear lines? My Bentley has arrived so will have a look in there too :clap: Oh, and will check front brake pads too, just in case... :oops:

My wild stab in the dark would be that the coolant temp sensor is iffy (although I wouldn't know if the 9A engine has one or where it is located)... Reckon that if the engine is not taking into account its own (high) temperature, it may be fuelling incorrectly, so poor idling and stalling? :scratch:

Do you have to do anything in particular to bleed the ABS? Have been thinking that my brakes are a bit more spongey than they were before I did a full brake bleed, and wonder if I have to cycle any valves etc. in the ABS unit to release trapped air? A job for VAGCOM perhaps? :scratch:

OK, so willing to be corrected on this: 1) Plenum width/depth must be at least 1.5 times the runner width, and must extend a bit beyond the last runner to avoid mismatches in fuelling (eg. when the last runner has more fuel and the first runner has less because the mixture tends to be directed into the last cyl...) 2) The diameter of the runner(s) determines the max. horsepower, as it eventually becomes the limiting factor in the air/fuel delivery (will try to get some figures, but 50mm = 400bhp IIRC) 3) Long runners increase low end torque at the (slight) expense of less high end power, short runners flow better at high rpm but rob low/mid range torque 4) 4 different length runners will spread the torque curve between the 4 cylinders, as each will be tuned to a slightly different power/torque band For example, the stock G60 inlet: _DSC6141.jpg[/attachment:2iow3c3k] Will check the accuracy of that when I get a chance...

I would spill the beans, but I can't remember exactly, and like the monkey said, some of it goes against what you'd expect, so it just sounds wrong second-hand... Will have a think and see if I can recall it.

Get the metal+rubber pipe (the one with the spiral in it) from VW, but before that, try to loosen up the 'rusty' union with a wire brush and some lubricant (like Plusgas), as that may just save you a few quid.

Ditto boost monkey's recommendation - I read it at the weekend, and it was excellent stuff, really interesting to see how the VW engineers have dealt with a lot of that stuff (you can see reason behind what looks like random design decisions when you look at the 8V G60 inlet and think about the engine's rpm/power/torque curves).

If you bleed the master cyl and either no fluid or lots of bubbles continue to come out, your master is shot.

In addition to Dec's advice, run your hand along the rubber piece of clutch hydraulic line to check for weeping. The rubber can become porous, which means that it can allow air to enter the fluid, although not enough fluid will seep out to form drips, which is why you have to rub your hand on it and see if it is slightly moist... The other way to do it is to bleed the clutch slave, then master, and then slave again, and if you still have froth coming out, your rubber hose is shot (like mine was :( ) Good luck!

This is an awesome and inspiring thread :D It makes me want to go back to basics on mine too, sort out all the little niggles and rebuild it up again :clap: boost monkey is doing that with his 1.8 16V, and I still have (long-term) plans for my G60 - like an FMIC or chargecooler - which will probs start soon with an engine strip/inspection/rebuild :salute: as it has done 173k miles :wink: Loving the pics too, keep it up. Oh, and I was looking at these chargecoolers previously: http://www.advancedvehicletuning.co.uk/avtpwr.htm Pretty sure a few guys on here have used them... don't know if there is a US equivalent.

Some nice mods there Jon :thumbleft: Liking the Magnex, and the new steering wheel. Hmmm, so how much would you be asking? :nuts:

I think you mean volume of air (or maybe mass) rather than air pressure. Basically, Pressure=Mass/Volume :dorky: It's all related, no? Given that the maximum volume of the cylinder is fixed, you have to 'up' the pressure to get more air mass inside, so it's the increased pressure that stuffs more air into the cylinder, allowing more petrol to be burned for more power output... or am I wrong? :shrug: The point I'm trying to make is that it doesn't really matter, but for those interested, it is the increased pressure in F/I systems that forces more air mass inside, so the pressure is the cause and the increased air mass in the cylinder is the result. Until someone invents an 'air magnet' that attracts all available oxygen atoms together, we'll be stuck with physically pushing the blighters closer together by brute force. :roll:

Er, may have been a bit enthusiastic with that last post! :lol: My personal experience is that the ISV will dump excess boost to the return line at high rpm (making the characteristic 'whoosh' noise, a bit like a whistle on a stove-top kettle). It is meant to do so above about 5500rpm to ease the transition into rev limiting. It also does a more severe job of restricting boost when knock is detected, but fortunately I haven't noticed much of that. Because the throttle and bypass valve are mechanically linked, as soon as you drop the throttle to idle, the pent-up boost can escape down the return pipe to the low pressure side of the charger, which is why you have to work hard to get much of a whoosh out of the ISV. Unless you have a crazy small pulley and regularly have 1+ bar in the inlet! Didn't mean to suggest that the ISV was the equivalent of a BOV on a turbo :wink: It's much more low-key than that.

*shamed by brother's strict adherence to the principle of 'If I have no experience of something, I won't offer an opinion on it'* :oops: :oops: :lol: :wink:

JMC, have you thought of padding the thin space between inlet and exhaust manifolds with some heatshield to stop 'direct' transfer of heat, then perhaps doing the chimney thing? I was going to wrap my exhaust (even though it's the stock iron jobby) as my inlet gets too d*mn hot. However, I have a phenolic gasket for the inlet to isolate it from the cylinder head (prime suspect for heat transfer), which will get fitted in the summer, so the heatshield idea is a bit of a second thought. Still tempted to try out the duct idea though.

After a few more thoughts I've realised that you've got a good point, Dec, that most of the heat from the exhaust manifold is radiated unless you paint it black, when more heat will be convected away from the surface, and the chimney may become more effective. Any which way, it'll probably cost you about £20, so no great loss if it doesn't work that well! *thinks of making a quick trip to B&Q himself* :lol:

I did think of the heatshield, but because the VR6 is a crossflow design, it's not as though the inlet manifold is being heated up by close proximity (unlike my nice counterflow 8v! :roll:). The requirement seems to be keeping the engine bay cooler overall, not just shielding one hotspot, if I understood Critical_Mass. An oil cooler is a great idea to keep the engine temp down, but depending on placement, the air that passes through the cooler will end up in the engine bay anyway, so won't keep the bay temps down. Good thinking! 8) ......but I'd use the pipe the other way around. It's mainly going to be radiant heat from the manifold, so sucking air away from the area wont do a whole lot to reduce overall temperatures. But ducting cold air towards the manifold etc could be beneficial. Getting air into the bay isn't too hard, which is why the radiator is up front(!) Getting all that hot air out is more tricky, hence the position I suggested. If the Corrado had wing or bonnet vents as standard, this would be less of an issue. Doing both the 'blow' (direct cool air onto the exhaust manifold) and 'suck' (pulling hot air out and under the car) chimneys might just be the perfect solution :wink:

One alternative would be to rig a 'chimney' for the hot air, a la Subaru. Basically a pipe that has one open end in the upper part of the engine bay near the exhaust manifold, and the other end down near the exhaust tunnel in the chassis at the rear of the bay. The science is simple - at even reasonable speeds, the air passing over the mouth of the pipe underneath the car causes a low pressure zone, effectively sucking on the end of the pipe, so that at the other end, the hot air around the exhaust is 'hoovered' up and dumped under the car. If you have flared ends to the pipe then so much the better, but just to check it works, get some flexi metallised ventilation ducting from a hardware store, rig it and put a regular desktop fan blowing across the lower opening under the car (to simulate the car moving forward) - sticking your hand at the end of the duct by the exhaust, you should feel the air being drawn down, like an upside-down chimney. It won't do much at low speeds, but may just help in ventilating the bay that much better, and for ridiculously little cost! That would save you having to shell out on expensive ceramic coating, or lagging your SS manifold and risking damage...

Works both ways - the more total volume of all the pipework and intercooler between the compressor (super- or turbo-charger) and the inlet manifold, the longer it takes for pressure to build in the system and the more pressure to dissipate when it's not wanted. With a supercharger, there's little instant step-change in pressure because it's always spinning, so there is a 'smooth' build up and fall off of pressure. With some turbos, there is a definite spool point where suddenly there's way more pressure than before - this can cause the pressure wave 'bounce' that Dec mentioned, if I understood correctly... In a G60, the Idle Stabilisation Valve acts as a BOV, quickly dumping overpressure from the system during high-rev WOT gear changes, for example. When the pressure is not excessive, the sudden closure of the throttle just causes the charger to have to 'push harder' against the slug of high pressure air ahead, but only very briefly until the now-open bypass valve dumps the excess pressure to the inlet side of the charger, helping it to deal with the sudden increase in backpressure (and minimising the mechanical shock, I would imagine).

:scratch: I thought that the boost generated by the G-Lader was proportional to rpm, roughly 2psi per 1000rpm (ignoring losses due to leaks etc.) in a stock arrangement, and more with a smaller charger pulley... dirtytorque is right that the great majority of that boost gets recirculated unless you are on the throttle, but it is a progressive changeover from bypass to full boost, so you might just find that the shorty gives sucky low-end torque when you are on Here's a few pics of the bypass valve, and you can see the position of the throttle (albeit the underside) and the bypass valve: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf_DSC6150.jpg[/attachment:2hmebyvw] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf_DSC6151.jpg[/attachment:2hmebyvw] _DSC6152.jpg[/attachment:2hmebyvw] Or am I going :cuckoo: ? :lol:

Welcome!!!! (next post has to have 5 exclamation marks :wink: ) Like Toad said, no-one will be bored by hearing about your awesome R32 upgrade - list away my good man :lol: And get lots of pics up :D *salivates wildly*

IIRC from a similar conversation I had with Darren at G-Werks, if it's a stainless steel (tubular) manifold then ceramic coating would be safer because fabric can restrict the natural expansion of the metal as it gets hot, and as steel is more stiff/brittle than iron it is more likely to fatigue and crack... Also, the ceramic coating will be on the inside, so the steel will not really get hot at all :D You can see YouTube vids of F1 engines with this treatment, and the engineer putting his hand on the exhaust manifold while blue flame is coming out the back! :shock: If you have an iron (cast) manifold, then fabric wrap will be OK, because the iron is more malleable and less likely to fracture. I'm pretty sure I remembered that right - but willing to be corrected :wink:

Welcome on board! :D Now get some pics up :wink:

^^^^ I think you can change the con rods to adjust the compression - shorter rods, lower compression, turbo ready(ish)!