ProdigalSon

That's a beautiful paint job Chris! :wink: Glad to have helped fund it too :lol: Quite pleased with how well your old sunroof has matched up now it is silver, you wouldn't know it wasn't the original :grin: South coast meet sounds like a plan :clap:

That's my understanding too - the ECU opens the valve, and any pressure differential across it causes air to flow in either direction. Hence it does double duty as idle stabiliser (air from recirculation hose pulled into inlet manifold due to relative vacuum there at idle) and as boost regulator (air pushed into recirc hose from inlet manifold as higher pressure there) on G60 engines. :salute:

Name's Prodigal, picture-taker and lawn-mower extraordinaire :wink: 8) :lol: :cuckoo:

^^^^ :lol: Good work, keep it up :salute: then you'll be able to help me with my subframe refurb later... :wink:

Well, at least I got the East Coast bit right... Hope you didn't mind me suggesting you were a Canuck! :cuckoo: :roll:

Slightly off-topic, but whereabouts are you located? :scratch: My guess is North America (not too hard), and possibly East coast? :shrug: If I'm going out on a limb I'd say Canada? Apologies if I'm wrong and cause offence! :ignore: :oops: :lol:

:lol:

Great pics, thanks, this is going to look great judging by the time and effort you are putting into making it right :nuts: And do I detect a little bit of perfectionism? :salute: :wink: It's always good to see another C getting a new lease of life :clap: :lol:

Good to hear that progress is still being made despite unusual setbacks :wink: Hope the emergency got sorted :salute: Got any pics of newly-improved interior or bodywork? :nuts: Keep up the good work :D

Hey bro, good news. I haven't tried putting the Toad's BBQ pics up yet, but will do soon. Just checking out teh Forumz :wink:

Hi Most grateful to you. What frequency are the pulses ? No idea, sorry, didn't do a frequency reading on it... Would guess it to be several hundred Hertz/times per second, but that's judging by feel alone :cuckoo: If they do match it is probably entirely coincidental - the pulsing of the fuel injectors is linked to the rpm I think (they fire twice every revolution IIRC), but the ISV frequency is pretty steady... Both ISV and injectors vary their 'open' duration to allow a carefully measured amount of air or fuel (respectively) to be delivered to the inlet, so there is a relationship there it just isn't necessarily one of pulse frequency/regularity.

Oh, and welcome too! :oops: Lovely looking C you have got yourself :nuts:

Your best bet is getting the Haynes book for the Golf/Jetta 1.8 16V (KR engine code), for checking what the timing is supposed to be. Haynes (and for that matter VW) didn't publish a Corrado 16V service book :shrug: If you are still stuck, do a set of searches, then if you can't find the info, post some questions in the Engine Bay area :wink:

The ECU pulses the 12V line to the ISV, which is why it buzzes when ignition is switched on. No, unless it is really bizarrely broken :lol: As long as it opens and closes quickly when you apply/remove the 12V, then it is probably fine (look in the side when you do it to see the movement)... Proper broken ISVs don't move much/at all when the 12V is pulsed. HTH :wink:

Pulled off the front N/S wheel and cleaned/regreased the caliper and brake pad backs and disk 'face' (bit that touches the inside of the wheel, not the shiny outside bit :lol: ) Sorted out the squeak, job done :D PS. does no-one else work on their C at this time of year? :scratch: :shrug:

As it is such a lovely day I had both windows down and was cruising along, and guess what... yes, the passenger front wheel was squeaking :roll: *sigh* Popped that side up on an axle stand when I got home, removed the wheel, undid the lower caliper bolt with a 13mm and 15mm spanner and flipped the caliper up out of the way, brushed the old copper grease/brake dust goo off the back of the pads and caliper runners, then re-greased them with new copper slip. Caliper back together and wheel back on, and the squeak is gone :grin: From clean hands to clean hands, about 40 minutes.

Bedding in is very important to remove any glaze from the pad surface when new, and to ensure optimal friction - this can also be done at any time when the pad surface becomes glassy or squeaky. Give it a go :wink:

On the gearing front, I am looking out for a direct replacement 'box from a Mk2 Golf or Passat 1.9l Diesel. The type of box is still 02A, so it is a straight swap with the same mounting points etc, but the gearing is much longer/taller for the torquey (but rev-limited) diesel engine: CTN gearspeeds.jpg[/attachment:18xv0op0] Much easier and cheaper than pulling the G60 apart to swap cogs etc., and it deals with the generally short nature of the G60 gear design (esp. 1st, 2nd, and 5th) in one go :D The code on that gearbox is 'CTN'. Edit: search through the Drivetrain area as I'm sure there are a few threads dealing with gearing options, and several people who have done different things and reported back.

You could just pop the surround off, and put the gear lever into 2nd or 4th to get it (and the flapping surround) out of the way a bit. You'd be able to see the connector near where 1st gear would be :wink:

G60s don't have VAGCOM ports for the engine ECU, only a diagnostic port for the ABS ECU (where fitted!) :( Most of the engine diagnostics can be done with a multimeter (reading voltage or resistance) and knowledge of where to connect it (eg. Bentley factory repair guide). If his car did have VAGCOM, the connector would be under the gearstick gaiter - unscrew the gearknob and pull the plastic surround up and off the gearstick - the connector(s) would be found inside, close to the dash. What's the problem he's trying to diagnose? Probably need to post in the appropriate area, on second thoughts :)

[offtopic] Looks like your friend had a bonnet release mishap at speed, judging by the windscreen and concave bonnet (I had the same happen in December) :shock: Shame to have left it in a garden for 2 years though :cry: [/offtopic] Good luck with the project :thumbleft:

Could be the brake pad occasionally moving against the caliper/carrier - typical 'brake squeak' suspect. If you put some copper grease on the BACK of the pads (please not the friction side! :shock: ), it will stop random or periodic movement of the pads causing that incredibly annoying 'cheep cheep' noise :wink: Otherwise, it may be that the heat/gungeshield behind the disk is slightly bent outwards and touching the disk occassionally, although that would make more of a 'shink shink' noise. Technical eh? :lol: I've had both, but both are dead easy to sort out (although the heatshield can be straightened with your bare hands, no tools required!) Did you bed in the brake pads yet? IIRC, you should brake gently from about 40mph to standstill, then brake hard from 50, 60, then 70mph to take the glaze off the pads and get them 'worn in'. :salute:

Good tip :salute:

Ordered some clear side repeaters and smoked/red 'M3-style' tail lights, which arrived today... :clap: Unfortunately they sent me the clear/red tails :( which are just a bit too bling for my liking :gag: Will have to wait til late next week to get the replacements on, as I'm off to Dubai at the weekend :roll:

Found this info on car and driver: http://www.vw-cup.co.uk/archive08/drive ... i_alex.htm Love the quote "Adopted a swift but troublesome Corrado..." - deja vu! :lol: Perhaps not a turbo? :shrug: