ProdigalSon

Post the pics anyway - we may be able to deduce what they are, then find a partcode :D

yeah.. i love my g i like the way she whines and then begs me to spank her. :ignore: coats on. :D What perfect timing - the missus just walked up behind me and read that over my shoulder - now she's got c o m p l e t e l y the wrong idea about my relationship with my C! :norty: Certainly raised an eyebrow :lol:

Cheers :D Just took her for a spin around the proverbial ring road - and she was excellent. Nice cool evening air and the hum of the charger, good to blow the cobwebs out, eh? :nuts: :luvlove:

Cheers for the use of your Autoglym goodies - will drop them back in 10 mins :salute: Used half a bottle of Wonder Wheels getting the alloys silver, and a fair bit of boot polish on the splitter, headlight surround and grille, side strips, roof strips, door handles, wing mirror surrounds and aerial base 8) (Also now have a hose long enough to reach the front of the house bro, for automotive lavage :wink: )

Thanks :nuts: The only problem with the respray is that it throws all the non-resprayed bits into stark contrast :( Both bumpers and the rear end look scuffed, chipped and dirty compared to the front... Thankfully you can't see any of that in the pics - I chose my close-ups well :norty: :lol:

I'm all for that! :clap: :salute: :lol:

Sorry for the delay, been out of the country, and then in bed with a chest infection, but finally summoned strength to give the C a wash and wax, and clean the alloys :clap: Took a few pics in front of the local park before the light faded (no, those aren't the gates to my mansion :lol: ): Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdf_DSC8550.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] Book1.pdf_DSC8553.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf_DSC8554.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] ETKA Corrado.pdf_DSC8557.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf_DSC8559.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] Corrado92.pdf_DSC8561.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf_DSC8562.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf_DSC8564.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf_DSC8567.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] _DSC8568.jpg[/attachment:2oajtgkx] Next up will be a bit of an engine investigation - want to check big end bearings etc. as it's done 174k now... Will sort out phenolic inlet gasket and possible exhaust wrap/insulation when the engine's out, later in the summer :) Funds permitting, I may even lose the agricultural ride height :roll: :lol: And a set of 16" replica LMs would also be on the wish list :clap:

blackcorrado and Dec - you have PM! :clap: One hose already ordered for bc as he's in a hurry - will arrive tomorrow morning :salute: Can order the other for Dec whenever. All costs and instructions in the PM :wink:

The stand-alone oil temp increasing seems to be mainly from the block heating the charger bracket, which heats the charger itself :brickwall: Of course, if you are running one bar of boost you are doubling the temperature of the air in the charger as it is compressed, so that will also have an effect, but the oil needs to have a little warmth (depending on the grade used) to give its best lubrication, so a Mocal would probably be overkill on the stand-alone (although probably very welcome on the engine supply) :) Deleting the boost recirculation would help with keeping the air in the charger cooler (and hence the oil), but the biggest culprit, and hardest to isolate, is the conduction from the block :roll: I suppose a phenolic or ceramic replacement bracket would work, but it would need to be able to take the strain from the pulley and weight of the charger... :scratch: Because the sump and braided lines are away from the block and a nice silver colour, they don't seem to suffer from heat radiation/convection in the engine bay in general. :wink:

Hi there :wave: Can you give us a few more bits of detail please? Like where is the coolant level in the reservoir when the engine is hot (or cold)? Are you losing coolant only from the reservoir cap, or from the coolant hoses/junctions? What is your coolant temp gauge reading, and do you ever get steam coming out of the engine bay? That should help diagnose the problem, but don't worry too much, the filler cap on the reservoir is designed to 'pop' if the internal pressure gets too high, so that hot air/coolant can escape and relieve the pressure, avoiding more expensive burst hoses etc. :wink:

Hmmm, read a whole bunch of stuff about the CTN box today, and it looks like a winner :D I like the idea of having a box that will deal with the torquey G60 better - not that wheelspin is a big issue for me, but I find the gears are too short and I am always changing through them, and motorway cruising is a bit high in rpm... Apart from the pain of getting the existing box off and a new one on, think this would be a no-brainer. Is anyone on here running a CNC head with their G60? Got any before/after dyno plots or opinions? With my recent inlet (cold air feed) and exhaust (Miltek) upgrades, I figure the head is the obvious next step.

Pics as requested (can also be found on my Member's Gallery page - apologies for the thread hijack!): passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfStand-alone sump.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfStand-alone filter.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfStand-alone pump.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] Stand-alone return.jpg[/attachment:23ny6j2x] This was all fitted by Steve at Pitstop Developments. Apparently I have 0W30 oil in there at the moment, according to the notes I made when the stand-alone system was fitted. Total cost was in the region of £270 I think, although a fair bit of that was labour in fabricating the bracket etc. It wasn't hard to do, although you have to make sure that you have the right junctions to go into the charger's oil inlet and outlet, plenty of braided hose, and the right tools to make up the hoses to length. It has made a big difference in dropping the temp of the charger :clap: and to my general peace of mind that it is still getting adequate and reliable lubrication, especially as I am now on a 68mm pulley.

No probs dude :wink: Perhaps I should open up a shop in the Suppliers Forum :grin: :lol: :nuts: Will PM with final costs and Paypal details for your approval :salute:

Ah, dinkus got there ahead of me :oops:

VAGCAT has the following (not sure which year your VR6 is, so could be variations): Flat retainer clip 4D0611715B (#14 in pic), Retaining bracket 357611797 (#17 in pic) Rear brake lines.jpg[/attachment:32i2gd95] Any use?

My bro and I stripped a full ABS system (minus the ECU) off a Corrado we broke earlier this year. Did have my eye on the parts as spares for mine, but sounds like your need is greater! He's in Germany tomorrow, collecting some Lambo parts for the race team he works for, but I will try to get a look at the parts and see if they are the same codes as yours...

I've got regular engine oil in my stand-alone, 10W/40 I think. If you are concerned you could use a thinner grade, given that it won't be heated directly by the engine, so will tend to be cooler and thicker than 'normal'. Reckon the stand-alone sump gets no hotter than 60C most of the time, indirectly heated by the charger compressing the air and the conducted heat to the charger from the block. IMHO, the major advantages of a stand-alone feed are constant oil pressure to the charger (no longer varies with rpm) and clean oil with no silt or cr@p in it! After about 9 months, my stand-alone oil still looks brand new 8) Not sure that you need any special grade of oil for it, tbh. Hope that helps :wink:

:lol: Yes, of course, that's fine Dec I'll need your address and will let you know postage before I order the hose :wink: I have Paypal, which should be fine for the payment side of things. Dave reckons on a 2 day turnaround for that part unless it is more urgent, when they can often do next-day if ordered before 1pm...

Yeah, it's definitely driveable. More of a niggle than a problem. Just noticed that the ABS barely kicked in on a piece of emergency braking coming up a sliproad when someone stalled ahead of me :roll: Figured that my brake friction might be down a bit... We have a very good VW nearby, so that may be the simplest solution! Cheers.

OK, price would be £32.25 inc. VAT and discount, but the postage to you would be additional. My bro does lots of business on ebay, so will check with him on the best way to post it. Whereabouts are you?

I'll give Dave a call... (He's the really helpful guy at VW Kidlington) :clap: Just need to know your VIN ideally, or your model year and engine at least, just in case there is any variation in part codes (although VAGCAT indicates it is the same part - 357721465A - for all years and models of Corrado).

Good news bro :D Will be nice to see what's happening with your fuelling etc. Would like to see Toad's subframe when you have it. Will probs use your Glymage today to get the Silver Lady back in foxy condition. (Er, and I think you meant MFA, no? :wink: )

Are you miles away from a dealer, or are they very unhelpful? If so, I would be willing to order you one from my local, and post it to you. You'd get my usual discount minus postage costs. Let me know.

Not so much a 'drain down' in my case, but we had to replace one rear and one front caliper, so the brake lines were open to the air for a short time... We bled new fluid through continuously, about 4l I think, but realised that some bubbles could've risen up to the ABS unit in the meantime :( Have some spare fluid in the boot, so may just have a quick bleed of the ABS and master cyl again.

I would be wary of one of these off a breaker - the rubber is perishable and all second-hand parts will be roughly the same age (>12 years), so you shouldn't really expect much additional life from a second-hand part... Seems as though several of these have failed recently from the rubber becoming weakened/porous (including my old hose). Will try to find the receipt from the VAG replacement I got back in Feb, to give an idea of current dealer price - VAGCAT is showing 32 Euros (24 quid?).