ProdigalSon

Hi Are you saying that the fuel pump should buzz away for ten minutes after turning the ignition off ??? The fuel pump doesn't have to run that long normally - usually just 10 seconds or so to re-pressurize the fuel rail, but you will hear it cut out and come on intermittently during that 10 minute period, while it ensures that the fuel rail is reasonably pressurized - the fuel pressure switch controls this process, and I think it activates the overrun when the pressure in the rail drops below 1.2 bars IIRC.

Glad to help :wink: Don't think the fuel pump overrun relay does anything else. The pressure in the inlet manifold will modulate the pressure in the fuel rail though. Under boost conditions, the excess pressure in the manifold causes the FPR to increase from 2.0 bar to 2.5 bar to provide fuel enrichment (alongside the electronic fuelling map in the ECU, which controls how long the injectors stay open). The FPR is purely a mechanical process, and requires that the couple of inches of thin 'vacuum' hose from the inlet manifold to the top of the FPR is in good condition. On a related topic, if you are losing pressure from the rail and find that you do actually have a fuel pump overrun relay fitted, then it points to a broken fuel pressure switch - this is mounted on the right side of the manifold and fed from a rubber fuel hose from the right-hand end of the fuel rail. HTH.

FYI: The fuel pump overrun ensures that the pressure in the fuel rail exceeds 2 bars for at least 10 min after the engine is turned off, to aid quick starting during that period.

The fuel pump overrun relay may have popped out of its clip and fallen down to the rear of the relay/fuse panel - the upper two rows of relays do not plug into a panel, but into the wiring harness itself, and they are held together with clips that affix to the actual relay board (the bottom two rows). They can jump out of the clips and fall to the rear of the panel, even though they are still firmly connected to the harness and working correctly... If you can hear the fuel pump whirring after getting out of the car then you do have a relay fitted :)

Hi Riley, This may help... 1992 Fuses and Relays.jpg[/attachment:14iwkrej]

Aww shucks :oops: No problem, there is a better/more comprehensive guide somewhere on the Wiki, but couldn't find it when I needed it, so made my own abridged version for the garage! :D

Hi, I'm a bit the worse for a few bevs :drinking:, but if I remember correctly, you have to at least remove a few of the bolts holding the sunroof assembly to the roof before you can slip the original sunroof trim (grey?) out to the rear of the mechanism and replace it with the new trim - to disengage the trim from the sunroof panel see here (a lil something I did for the bodyshop to help them remove the sunroof panel for a respray!) And yes, it helps if you remove the leather grip from the handbrake before you slip the handbrake cover up and off. It is held on by a plastic clip thingy on the underside at the rear of the grip, not very hard to press in before removing to the front of the car. HTH :wink:

Hey bro, sorry if this is a bit incoherent - been to a Bajan party, had some drinkz... :drinking: If you do drill the bolt and subframe thread too, there's a subframe thread extension kit you can order (see the Bentley) that will give you an extended thread IIRC... You would have to use longer bolts, but would be possible - all the original part no's are listed in the workshop manual. Good luck :D *hic*

Yeah, you'd know I guess (thanks for replacing the shattered 7mm)! :wink: Or you could cut a slot or cross into the top and try to use a large flat or philips driver, end-on? Not sure if you'd get a 3/8ths extension in through the hole/gap though :scratch: Cheers :)

dirtytorque, yes, would recommend taking the throttle body off, which will allow you to remove the inlet manifold more easily, which in turn will give you decent access to the exhaust manifold. I bought a 6mm hex bit for my 3/8ths square drive ratchet, which is invaluable in removing and refitting the 3 long and 3 short Allen headed bolts that hold the inlet manifold on - I recommend it highly. Once you have space at the rear of the engine bay, you should be able to remove the nuts from the back of the cylinder head, and the 6 bolts on the downpipe, and although you may have to loosen the engine mounts and rock the engine a little, I reckon the exhaust manifold will come out with a bit of wiggling there (although I have not done this yet). You'll need new copper nuts to refit the zorst manifold to the cylinder head, and new gaskets, as I think they are single use only. Hope that helps :wink:

Hey bro, good work so far :thumbleft: To get some decent torque on the stud, why not drill a 3 or 4mm hole through it sideways and use the drill bit (once removed from the drill!) to get some purchase? You will probs dee-stroy the bit, but will have a really good grip on the remaining threaded part (could even hammer it?). I have replacement inserts for the blowtorch and some Plusgas there too I think, so knock yourself out. Just watch out for lubricant and flame interactions :eek: PS. so do I get to keep the remaining heavy duty cutting disks? :wink: :D

Looks like you're having lots of fun - sorry to be missing it :( And yes, I managed to be on holiday for a whole 8 days without checking the Forum :oops: :lol: Keep at it bro, you'll win :wink:

#Oh! Sweet sideways# :D

Quicky answer - take off the sunroof motor from the front inside of the roof, and play with the two cables (seen in the hole that the motor uncovers) so that the panel mounting plates are aligned. Long answer - search for the sunroof repair guide on the Wiki and do it step by step with pictures :D

That's awesome :thumb right: your front end is going to be tighter than... the molecular bond between adjacent carbon atoms in a diamond (family audience :wink: ) :lol:

Just saying Dave is a great guy and will often go out of his way to help you out, Gary less so, in my experience. :wink: Iffley and Kidlington both give 'GTi Club' discount if requested, and I don't think they've ever asked to see my CCGB card. Do you have one bro?

Prepped it for collection and dropped off the keys at the bodyshop, bodywork will be repaired (mainly 70mph bonnet release damage from December) and the front end resprayed in the next fortnight. Even went as far as making this purdy manual for the sunroof :oops: VW Corrado Sunroof Instructions.pdf[/attachment:h3qy5mnn] Obsessive? moi? :lol:

:lol: Like I said, it's not like I slipped him a fiver... Did you get any discount? Gary is not Dave, if you catch my drift. Still, that's mucho dinero for a single sensor :roll:

Hmmm, about £30? Not that I slipped Dave a fiver to apply a -100% discount to you order, or anything... :wink:

This is my old G60, owned from 2000-2002, then sold on to CazzaVR, who offered me first refusal when he sold it about 9months later, but I didn't have the cash :( J18 ACC Blue G60 2.jpg[/attachment:2yv6izah] Anyone seen it? Think he said it went to someone in Swindon...

New fuel rail arrived this morning, but after a brief under-bonnet inspection, I realised that (once again) it's probably an inlet-manifold-out job to get room for manouevre! Not a job for Friday night. :eek: Other good news is that my 3 inlet manifold gaskets also arrived, so I can put a 'proper' one on after I've done the fuel rail, and have 2 left for the phenolic later in the summer :D So I'm dropping off the keys for the bodywork repairs and respray tomorrow :clap: and going on hols for 2 weeks on Sunday :tongue: so it'll be April before I have another bash at this :lol:

While you're waiting to find out the part code, why not rob your spare KR for that sensor? It may even have a partcode stamped on the body. :wink:

Refitted throttle body and FPR, but this happened to the end of the fuel rail :( _DSC6184.jpg[/attachment:4qtt8b0l] Bother :| New fuel rail on order, hope to have a working car soon :roll: have missed it these last two weeks!

Cool 8)

Yeah, am being a bit more philosophical about it now, because I don't have the pressure of getting it drivable by Saturday morning, and once this is done all of the perishables (non-metal) in the front-end fuel system will have been replaced! :wink: Will need to update my sig then, to reflect my latest refurbishment! :lol: