boost monkey

Cheers Steve :salute: the brush-on hammerite is a little rubbish (only the streaky finish i'm upset about) but the aerosols are £££ and i'd rand out of POR, but i guess it's way more about function over form. I built my rack up in an evening and the boots are really hard to slide on! especially as you have to line them up with that pole on the underside, well done for doing it in situ! :D Just stopped for lunch now (at 4pm :nuts:), subframe has a few bolts in place but needs small adjustments to position which is hard when it's on 2 jacks, rubbing on the engine and box mounts and weighs about 50kilos. Hoping to have it all bolted up by end of today. On other news, took ownership of the VAG fixings for everything on the rear beam today, just the major suspension and braking parts to come from Febi AVS and then that will be ready to be built too. Pics up of all later on.

Aha :salute: clever stuff.

Huh. The U/J i got from the scrapper with the rack I've rebuilt is the wrong one, it needs to be the 22-spline but it's the 30something spline one instead. I have 2 U/Js, one from The Burgundy and the other from the scrapper car...and they're the same :scratch:

Very interesting read here as i'm just trying to roughly line my new rack up with my old one! I'm guessing as long as it's good enough to drive over to the alignment place then that's ok? I can get it within 2mm of the old one I reckon...maybe 5mm.

Love the cutaway charger, helps me get my head round how they work.

Ooops. That top mount is getting cut out then... Completed subframe with steering rack too! This is what freshness looks like :nuts: Gonna use the old rack to roughly sort the tracking out. Jim, you can have it when i'm finished ;)

yeah ditto what David said. Hubs are easily worth £20 a pop for normal 4-stud ones, so 50stud would go for a bit more. I reckon calipers, carriers, discs, pads and hubs is fair for £150 ish, esp as the discs and pads are nearly new genuine.

Firstly, pretty sure you were right about my bodged coolant draining that time buddy so cheers for the input :salute: If you do what I did and buy everything seperately and build it up and then swap it out it's a lot less hassle than taking bits off, cleaning them up and painting them. I still have the parts lists for everything i've done (just filled out list #6 for rear beam) so let me know and I can send them over. I've also just dropped £500 on the whole rear beam assembly. All the brakes, stoneshields, suspension, and 2 pages of fixings from VW. I must be loco... :cuckoo:

Yeah, changing bones in situ is :gag: had to do that on my Jetta a while back. Well, I couldn't go WOT in first or above 4000 at POT cos the engine rocked too much so never done a fast 1st to 2nd change. I think if I could I wouldn't slate the corrado 16v _as_ much :lol: The ignition bits have allowed me to hit redline now, so maybe when it's all back together I will take it for another blast. Handling wise, both top mounts are dead on the shocks and go "DNK" over big bumps, tons and tons of vagueness in the steering too, so yeah it handled like ass. The boges are going on today too :norty:

Yes the pulley is removable, you just need to take out that bolt and the washer behind it. Excuse my rudeness, but is that actually cracked? If it was cracked all the way through you would be able to tell by using the naked eye. The yellow/green light looks like it's just reflecting off the scratches on the surface of the pulley :scratch:

Cool, cheers for the advice Pete. Yeah UJs seem really reluctant to slide on and off even without bolts! :nuts:

aha, I'll make a note of that. Cheers :salute:

Looks nice mate, good find! Is that interior really late VR? I thought all late interiors didn't have the armrest but just a flat base :scratch:

Not yet matey, I got a call today to say they're in but then got a call back saying one item was in back order and as I don't wanna walk round twice I'm just gonna go round tomorrow and try to sort it all out. I will put up some pics when I have my hands on them in the morning sometime, all being well :salute:

the 2-pin red/black wire? I always thought it was a switch that activated the central locking from the drivers handle...

You should read the suspension discussion thread :lol: Measure the ride height to the door sill as opposed to the wheel arch, as the front wings are obviously not part of the chassis. If you're still getting stuck, count how many turns you do on each wheel and how many threads the spring platform is from either the top or the bottom, it shouldn't be too hard to get it level. Could also be that your bought second hand suspension and the coils are fooked! 220 Euros is pretty cheap...perhaps for a reason?

Don't apologise just yet for the moanings, there may be more to come! :lol: let us know how you get on.

pics?

No charger rebuilds for 200k? You have balls of steel.

Didn't do anything today cos I ACHE LIKE A MOFO! :sad: Glad I bent at the knees to move the subframe around, it saved my back from injury, but my thighs are burning like the sun and my arms are pretty achey too (and i'm not tiny, really). Hopefully tomorrow will be fitting the new stuff: Stick it all on the jack. wiggle it a bit to line it up and then sling all the bolts on! Robert is your father's brother :salute:

EW motor is near the door hinge on the left hand side so it's not that. The only things on the right hand side are the central locking mech and the right hand rail for the window. There should still be enough space around there to move the wire out. My guess is someone has put it back in the wrong way and it's got tangled with something else and now you're having a headache getting it out. Can you get any pics up?

you said it. there's more mapping software in an Etch a Sketch than in one of those cheapo chips. do some research though, there's definitely some fettling that can be done. Look up "WUR mod" too :salute:

You can't remap the standard chip, it's just set at factory. The headwork will be the only thing that will massively change the running of the engine, and even then I'm guessing it still has standard valves in? That said though, I think you can adjust the fuel pressure on the metering head to allow more fuel through, someone else will know about this better than I do though. hth, Jon.

Welcome to obsolete car ownership :salute: you should be able to find a second hand door handle on the bay or many of the various VW forums. I also recommend Dave16v's replacement handle mech which is near bulletproof. The CL wire may be catching on the pushrods for the door opening mechanism itself. Pop the doorcard off and ease the wires back out of the handle hole once you have removed it. Jon

Cats do tend to scare away the ponies. As do fish. And Toads.