boost monkey

At least you guys have breakdown cover unlike me when my HG gasket goes 40 miles from home :cuckoo:

Yeah sure mate, i'll get it posted asap. Term kicked me in the head yesterday so didn't get round to sending! :salute:

what springs did you use Paul? some of them are not well matched to the standard dampers.

Oh yeah, LBJ bolts have changed to 16mm too :brickwall: why VW?!

Yup, used it on my old rack and it didn't work. But then, my old rack had a really dodgy integrated hard line (ones on outside of main casing) and it just peed all of that stuff out.... I had pas for about 10 mins though :lol: depending on what your problem is, that will either fix it or not. If your PAS system is leaking then I doubt it will fix it.

:tumbleweed: :camp:

Stop fanning about, Louis Theroux! :lol: seems like you've got plenty to do. p.s. well done with the start of teh motor, old fuel is normally good to start for anything up to a year. Don't expect to accelerate fast with it though! :nuts:

Yes very handy mate. cheers! Learnt the hard way that NEW top nuts are 21mm.... very very annoyed, but the spanner still worked so cheers very much. Door update? ;)

:nuts: early non lambda/cat cars ftw!

:lol: keep them coming!

i'm gonna get in trouble for going off-topic, do a search there's tons of people with lambda issues on here.

what's the benefits of changing the column, something else to go wrong? :nuts: sorry, bad taste...!

yeah sounds like a plan. If you know how to do it, you could go through the whole lambda sensor check that would be a good starting point :salute:

you've replaced 2 cats in a year? are you using old bean cans or something? if you're killing cats ( :lol: ) that quick, you have serious fuelling issues my friend.

Umbrella? Eh Eh Eh...

Top strut mounts, camber bolts, track rod end and lower ball joint bolts all torqued up to spec now :salute: Had to turn the LBJ bolts round as the bolts should be pointing towards the BACK of the car, as are the camber bolts.

definitelty worth checking Jim and not really a silly question I'd say. My old battery used to leak a bit and corroded the earth point just next to the battery / underneath washer bottle which didn't help overall car running.

different length springs can be rated as a different amount of 'drop' because of a difference in spring stiffness or pounds per inch rating, so they may have the same free length off the car but when you put them on and lower the car back down on it's wheels they will 'settle' or compress different amounts. obviously softer springs will lead to a more wallowy ride :salute: personally, I wouldn't recommend a drop of more than 40mm as the suspension geometry (if left unaltered) is compromised. If you want to fill arches, maybe some bigger wheels? :shrug:

yes, a broken top hose 'neck' is a new radiator i'm afraid. I've had those break on 2 of my VWs, the plastic / composite they're made of just get so brittle and sometimes just removing the top hose itself or doing the clip back up is enough to crack or even shatter it :sad:

Suspensionz Offside strut came off easy peasy. Massive thanks to G60_edge aka Alex for loan of an awesome re-engineered/adapted 22mm drop ring spanner :salute: :notworthy: :clap: Kinda looks a bit grubby though, don't you think...? Ahhhh, much better :grin: very quick job with soapy water and a nylon brush followed by a quick wipe down. Didn't go behind the arch liners, but it'll do for now. Old vs New. I did wonder whether I should have moved the boot over from the bottom of the old bumpstop boots, but VAGCAT and the Bentley showed assembly with just the bumpstop and concertina boot so I left it off. Boot covers whole piston travel anyways... I did push the bumpstop up so that it was sitting under the spring top plate though :salute: :salute: The problem top mount. 7mm inset allen head rounded/exploded out and was useless so I broke out the power tools :nuts: Don't wanna cut into the chassis mount though... :scratch: Much better, a quick jackage under the LBJ and the whole plate was lifted 1/4" off the chassis. Have at thee, mountage! Dremel suffered many disc losses in this procedure... :roll: And another chunk gone... Strut rotated for ease of cutting... BBBZZZZEEEIIIIUUUWWWWWW...*flumf* crap, another broken disc... keep going... Winning.... :clap: Suspensi-own :cheers: Dropped nicely out the bottom after that! Quick brush and wipe-down again. Advisable to keep crud out of the brake hose joint as I will have to get those undone soon... :shock: mmm, matt (black) :luvlove: View from under front of car Top mount plates went on very easily, didn't have to compress the springs any further which was awesome. Still need to torque those nuts up. So....just the rear beam and the cross member / rad support panel to go now then.

Still fingertight at the mo, but the LBJ is pretty snug so won't fall out. Still need to tighten up the TREs and the camber bolts, not really too sure whereabouts they should be (although it'll only be for the short drive to the alignment place).

you do get what you pay for. Saying that, Supercharged runs new VR6 gas shocks and H&R OE springs. I've just fitted VR6 gas shocks to mine but it's yet to driven, or even put back on the ground. imo, brand new good quality OE shock absorbers should be able to handle dropped springs. Bilstein make some shocks which are about £50 each and are designed for use with "sports" springs.

Good updates T-unit :D those 288s look pretty damn fresh :shock: :camp:

Ditto coullstar. Sounds like your old one was leaky or blocked. Exhausts shouldn't really make that much difference, the OEM design is pretty good! Could well be psychological if you think the car feels faster.

Why would the petrol tank vent out into a potentially hot engine bay? Don't think that's right somehow...