boost monkey

Yes, that's a given. But as the question was for a broken connector then it's not gonna bridge the gap.

Early 16vs deffo have this switch. Frotn left corner of rocker cover underneath the kink in the injector lines :salute:

Spraying WD40 in there won't fix a broken connector because it's a di-electric formula (won't conduct electricity) :salute: hpoe you get it sorted out, deffo have a very close look at wiring, it can get so brittle form the engine heat.

Don't get a pattern radiator, they don't sit on the support beam properly :salute:

Ditto that, just don't use the old coolant again.

3 hours of Stress Analysis on a monday morning is :bonk: :awesome: :nuts:

Teaser: full write-up later this eve if i'm still conscious!

:lol: not the most practical, but won't the ladies swoon as they pass by!

Nice engine, it's always interesting to see how other people build theirs. 18psi doesn't exactly disprove my point though: welded manifolds may be weaker than stock but they're still metal and still have internal strengths! I just wouldn't trust one but that's my opinion. You're not allowed back now you have a VRT :lol: Interesting stuff though Cheesonator, any graphs of your old cars at all? that would be ace (you can leave out the morris minor you learnt in :nuts:)

Hi mate, it would be awesome if someone had already answered both your questions elsewhere wouldn't it? Oh wait... what's this! Forced Induction 20V Thread Forced Induction VR6 Thread Teh Monkey :salute:

I wonder if Mic_VR will return or whether he is grooming/choosing which 70s taupe polo neck to wear today...

Nice car, that's blackberry in english I think! Why does it have an odd (and bigger?) wheel on the rear in one of the pics? dragster look? :lol:

Sorry if this has been mentioned, but what's with the breather on the ISV? is it something to do with boost recirculation?

The spare head has only done 80k which imho would be borderline rebuild time (i think some builders say 60k is the limit) so I could sling that one if this one is knackered. I could also just sling the old pistons in too as they will have done 80k also. Bit gutted i didn't compression test the spare engine, even more gutted I didn't swap it in and strip down the problem lump! I see your point though. Tbh, rebuilding the spare engine is probably going to be £500+ before things like pistons etc, which is why I was planning to turbo it (although that obviously hikes cost further) as you can easily buy an engine that someone else has rebuilt for £3-400, a 16v anyways. Obviously, half the fun is building one up but I gotta weigh the pennies up a lot (note to self: running a C whilst at uni is a bad idea) and concentrate on the priorities. I guess I can live with the old piston rings, at least I know why the oil level is dropping slowly now.

Awesome wheels and awesomer engine! Didn't realise there were so many 24valves about! Oh and it's 20/09/08 today :salute:

With the HG issue, the rings are obviously a little worn out too as there's a consistent 2bar increase when we did the leakdown/wet compression test. Is it worth whipping the pistons out and doing the rings at the same time? If I did do the rings, can I re-use the big end bearings so long as I keep them with their matching piston? Cheers :salute:

Yeah, I think the little silver packets are supposed to be 1 per boot, or 1 per side if you buy a pair. My boots are febi so I didn't get any grease, but I grease up the actual rack arms tons and tons and then the inners of the boots a little too. Yeah, I'm guessing a HG, head bolts and cambelt won't cost that much as labour is free :cheers: That might nopt get done very very soon, but I'll get it done before I drive the car again for sure. I'm actually thinking about putting my 280s on now too! :nuts: seems like it would make sense as the front end is all apart...but then saying that all I really need to do is jack it up and pop the wheels off so maybe I should leave that for another day :lol:

Incentive ;)

What kind of enamel did you have in mind? cheers for the advice :salute: Yeah, I'm not really feeling the sump scrapers to be honest, I've done some quite superficial research into bump and droop (opposite of bump / flying) in suspension on single seater racers in workshop class and it seems that just dropping a ride by an inch or so, not much more, helps it handle a lot better so long as everything is uprated of course.

I will check but I think it's 500g or something! Obviously for trade use or a workshop at least...maybe I should refurb my 3 spare racks :lol: Why, yes it is :D I will have a look at the label. Actually, I'll throw a photo up in a bit! One side just has about 72 different translations of "coolant flush" :nuts: I am half tempted to do my HG at the same time, 3 bar variance just seems a bit too much and I'll kick myself if I have to dump another 6 litres of coolant etc just to do the HG which I knew was a bit iffy in the first place. I have a HG off the spare engine anyways, only done 80k.... (joke) :bonk:

Today in picture form Getting ready to slide it under. Was really fiddly getting it past the 2 stands supporting the engine/box and the 2 stands holding the car up. Just about managed that and then fumbled around a lot with tilting it so I could get a jack underneath. Ended up using both jacks and putting them under each side... ...which made doing this a helluva lot easier! :grin: a quick wiggle of each hub and both lower ball joints slotted into place. I connected up the rack to the hubs just to keep the track rods out of the way really. Just nipped the nuts up for now. Old parts being put to good use! That hydro mount deffo had a lot to make up for :bonk: Once the LBJs were in place and frame was supported as above, I moved one of the jacks into the middle of the frame to jack it up hard against the floorpan/mounting points. Squeezing under the ARB was the first of a few fiddly little problems, but they were getting smoothed out slowly. Perfecto. Rear frame mount lined up. Skip forward past lunch and all the bolts were done up to torque :clap: :salute: Doesn't that "background" behind the mount look SO much better now? ;) REM bolts (:lol:) were taking forever+2 until I got some advice from Prod about loosening the bottom mount bolts to allow some wiggle room. 5 mins after that it was finished, cheers bro :thumb right: offside rear frame bolt, then ARB mount and then wishbone bolt. offside frame to chassis rail bolt and engine mount bolt. nearside rear frame bolt, then ARB mount and then wishbone bolt. nearside frame to chassis rail bolt. Completed Pics Plenty of waxoyl on anything I might want to ever take apart/off and inside any cavities too! :salute: Quite enough for one day, off for some tea and bathing. Tomorrow, the twin turbos.... :norty: :robot:

Not at all. There are plenty of people on here who like to do the same thing - renew a whole section with all new stuff from VAG. When I fitted my Koni's, every single bit of rubber and every bolt that came out was replaced with all new stuff. I balked at the cost at the time (£200 for the rubber & bolts on top of the Koni's!) but it's worth it as I know that the VAG stuff will last and I know I can just forget about suspension for a while! :) yeah, all those fiddly rear suspension bits :shock: :shock: :shock: all adds up doesn't it! Here's the stuff I picked up today, rear beam items plus coolant flush as recommended by Supercharged :salute: and the new pulley (although it's the wrong one, guh)

Yeah pretty fooked eh! I guess it had lost most of it's hydro-ness by the time I took it off :| Yeah, I need to talk to you about your springs actually! I'm going to have boge gas dampers all round now, and it'll be on std springs for a bit but it sounds like your H&Rs are a really good OE match for ride and comfort.

Any idea why it split again? That outer CV i have seems to weep LM grease from time to time :gag: Yeah I used the VW grease, but the special order stuff. It's a whole tube the size of your forearm and costs ~£6. There's no way I could have put it all in, it would have squirted out both boots when I got full lock! :lol: Here's the pic: Tube in bottom right, labelled "steering gear grease" looks a lot like the castrol cloudy yellow grease stuff.

did you wirebrush the join to get access to the threads and then use plusgas aka the secret weapon? the piping all goes to the brake master cylinder, or thereabouts. there is probably a T-point on the nearside of the engine bay where the lines run off to the rear and the main line runs on to the nearside brake caliper / hose join. they're not too hard to get to no, the chassis has little holes cut in it where the brake pipes go through so just bend them to fit pretty much :salute: