boost monkey

new wheels yet?

Yes but you also have poor running above the point where the WUR is no longer having any effect. Ah ok, so because the starting / idling system isn't working then the WUR is kind of obsolete in the troubleshooting side of things? If so, then that's kinda good cos I felt a bit stupid taking up a spare WUR and never trying it out.

Also, if a knackered WUR will result in poor starting, well, it could indeed be knackered as it definitely is poor at starting.

Those pictures are amazing, cheers for the help! Gotta run off to Materials lecture now :(

ace :thumb right: beer tokens in the post!

cheers flusted, do you know which ones these are at all?

not found many single spades plugged in so that could be something... yeah the 5th inj has a blue plug, and the WUR has a white one. Those are both connected up - not sure if the WUR works though as mentioned :? yeah the isv is black i'm pretty sure, and i def know which one that is! :lol: good memory by the way! :shock: 8)

good news. what did it make?

Aha. Well both the KRs I've had had completely different single pin connectors on the sides, so i'm stumped!

where is the thermotime switch?

Afraid not, I'm 100 miles from the car. I'll try to find some engine bay pics although I have pulled up nothing so far.

LOLz! it are jokes plz? so what's the plans for this weekend, I am having a mind blank :?

and the results were? *wonders if this post will get deleted*

touche :( so are we doing headlights or those neons you always wanted?

Cheers steve, yeah getting a good wiring diagram is Plan A! I'm gonna go back up and try to change things one by one and see what's working and what is not.

Oh Cazza is still rolling in a candle wagon? I reckon the Jetta had a better setup than boggo corrado lights, more sepia than your grandad's photo album! :lol:

Hi guys, just looking for a list of things to check here, or maybe some "if this is working, but that isn't, try this..." kind of things on the Burdundy., Basically went up and sat on Russed16v's drive for about 6 hours yesterday, trying to get the thing to go. I think it started 3 times all afternoon. I'll categorise the results: ISV not working Basically, the ISV wouldn't buzz on ignition-circuit so we took it off and soaked in carb cleaner. After that, the best it would do was a single *click* opening on the 16v loom. ProdigalSon drove me up there so we plugged the ISV into his G60 loom and it would click on and off very slowly... it did not buzz like I thought it should (possible mis-match of test by using 16v isv on g60 loom?) Did manage to get it started by taking the ISV out and holding the 2 vac pipes (one to the air intake, and one to the cold start injector) together at a few millimetres apart. This meant it would idle at 3000rpm and was overfuelling a lot, burping out of the exhaust and some white smoke (smelt like petrol). Would not hold it's own idle even after running up to 80deg and radiator fan kicked in. Also very reluctant to restart on turning key. Wiring problem Possible issues with wiring too, a few unknown connectors floating around underneath the ISV, WUR and cold start injector. Not sure if they are supposed to be plugged in (see other post for details) Cold start injector not sure if this was working, although it was getting fuel through the banjo hose, so we soaked it in cleaner just to be safe and reconnected it all. Didn't seem to make a difference to running with it connected or disconnected. Warm Up Reg Took a known good one up with me, but didn't get to swapping it over mainly because we weren't sure if it was that or something else. How does a knackered WUR make itself known? Very weak spark took a plug out when starter was cranking and connected it up outside of engine. Very weak spark. Checked earth by Distributor, earth on ignition coil and earth by battery via a multi-meter continuity test. All found to be poor, so wire-brushes all three and reattached all leads with cooper grease and tightened up. Battery very happy to crank starter all afternoon, so don't think it was low on charge. Timing issue? not sure whether the timing is out, as we didn't have a strobe with us, plus Russ said that the car would only attempt to start in the position that the dizzy was currently in. Cambelt done recently, but sounds like it's worth a check? Ignition Switch will pick up a new VAG one and take it up when we return, hopefully for the last time! :) Points to note: Car was very low on petrol and parked on a slope. Pushed car down onto flat ground, and managed to start and idle at 3000rpm again, but exactly same symptoms as before. Parts to take back with me: New HT leads and plugs(?), known good ISV, good wiring diagram, new VAG ignition switch, 3.5mm allen key (to check CO pot, or is this pointless without a gas analyser?) known good cold start valve, known good ignition amp, strobe gun. Apart from getting a couple of gallons in her, can anyone think of something I may have missed?

Cool, cheers. There's a 2-pin brown square connector, exactly the same as the blue cold start injector, and the white WUR connector. Any ideas? Thanks for the 1-pin connectors, I won't worry about them for now then. what is the fan overrun thermal switch, i can only think of the 3-pin items connecting to the fan itself and also the temp switch in the bottom of the rad.

favourite Mr. Men Character? Mr. Bump.

Doesn't even start buddy. took the ISV out and kinda bridged the gap with the 2 ISV vac pipes, but it idles around 3000rpm and is overfuelling big time. exhaust is belching out petrol and white smoke (possible timing issue, yet to be confirmed) i'm intrigued about the coolant temp sensor... where can i find this and how can I check it? I'm so used to looking at the blue temp sensor, but the 16v doesn't have one!

Hi guys, has anyone heard of the 2-pin connector to the ISV basically pulsing a 12+ signal for a split second with ignition on and then completely turning off? Tried this on my 16v by bridging an LED across the ISV connector and it literally flashes once and then goes off. Plug it into the G60 with the ignition on and the light stays on. Is there loom damage or are there other things to check? Thanks for the help, Jon.

Hi guys, have got a few missing connectors on my Corrado (still with Russed16 at the mo) There's a brown 2-pin connector at gearbox end (fits on the WUR and on the cold start injector, but they have a white and blue connector respectively) Also a few random 1-pin jobbies floating round that end - green/red striped item and also a white/black(?) item too. Any pictures of the loom and connectors around the engine bay will be massively helpful. I will actually send you cash money. That's no lie. So, anyone who has an early 1.8 16v and a hi-qualitee camera, go crazy.... 8) 8) 8)

is it (was it) Dark Burgundy Pearl?? What is it now? looks insanely shiny :shock: 8)

both g60 and 16v have stupidly short first gears, so completely untractable for your project imho.

From that you can work out the diameter of the aperture of the injector nozzle if you know how long the injectors open for. Preferable in ms, but i'll take seconds :lol: