pete_griff

hey pal sorry for being a bit slow on the uptake here. if you remember where you came to collect my rear calipers.... if you're anywhere near there or brecon in future gimme a buzz and i can have a look at it for you if you like. refreshing the running gear at the front end sounds like the way to go for the time being though. also, instead of buying all brand new kit, have you considered just taking your existing wishbones off, de-rusting them and fitting new bushes. would work out much cheaper, allow you to fit the r32/tt bushes which would tighten up your handling and you would learn something about taking the car apart... it's not a difficult job at all - more than happy to talk you through it if you give me a buzz

check this link out as well - possibly more likely this is the cause... viewtopic.php?f=23&t=81317

really liking the engineering you're putting into your project Doug - looks really nice. i may well have to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner now thanks to you too! looking forward to seeing the little list of bits and bobs that you've cobbled together to make it run with the obd1 ecu and how your going to control the vriable inlet and cams. good work chap :clap:

oh, and count yourself lucky you've got the engine out to line the splines up for the rack with with column - i had to do that with the vr engine in situ - PITA!

good point matey! you're best off assembling th subframe as a oner before you put it all back on. i.e lower arms, engine mounts, arb, rack etc etc just lift it into place with a trolley jack underneath it to support it :)

really liking this thread (been keeping an eye for a while now) and your attention to detail. keep it coming. they're not red/pink!, but the wings from my rado were in perfect nick (had to cut the original underseal to get them off :cry: ) besian off here has got them now, so if he's not using them he may well sell them to you for a decent price if you ask him... top work :clap:

amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin amazin!!! really glad it's finally come together for you pal - make sre you keep us all updated on how it's going running it all in etc. very very interested to hear your opinion on the final prodct once oyu've got everything more or less how you want it.... oh, and well done on finishing it - AT LAST! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Replace every two years? Never knew that .. I've had the car a year and not done it and I can't remember seing any evidence of it being done recently in the history. May have to look at that then. brake fluid is hygroscopic (basically it draws in water from the atmosphere over time). as it draws in more water over the years it's boiling point gradually gets less and less (making it unsafe), and also it will start to rot the internals of your braking system - steel lines, pistons in brake calipers, abs pump internals etc etc i think manufacturers quote a change every 5 years or so. guess it depends on how much you use the car, where it's stored, how hard you brake etc etc - personally i would change it at least every 3 years just to be sure. you can buy testers that tell you the boiling point and/or water concentration for not much money as well if you're worried :wink:

to do brakes and clutch on a rado shouldn't in theory use more than 1 litre. that said, if you're using a gunson, i would have two litres (or 1.5 depending on what bottles you're buying) to hand, just to make sure you don't run dry and start putting air into the system...

it's likely the bushes have worn either end of the cables. unfortunately vw don't sell these bushes separately and they charge about £75 each for new cables :cuckoo: although if you do fork out for new cables it will make the gearchange feel nice again (or relatively for an 02a cable change anyway...)

if you're doing the bearings i would also look at taking the abs rings off and refurbing/renewing them as you won't be able to do them any other time. that means you'll also need 3x new abs rings screws and possibly a new abs ring. don't forget to get it all aligned properly again after too :wink:

here's another vote for the gunson eezibleed kit - i've used one before on my own corrado and i thought it was a neat bit of kit. the only bad thing is you'll need a syringe or some rags to hand as it leaves the fluid reservior brimmed with fluid and you'll need to empty a little back out before you put the lid on. and make sure you've got plenty of brake fluid to hand as the gunson will generally use more than doing it the "old fashioned way" of pump the pedal with a friend. the gunson is vastly easier though and seems to do a better job of bleeding as well.

if you've got those then i take it you've got the mk5 manifolds as i'm certain they're different to the mk4 items... and yes, (imo here obviously), the mk5 setup looks much better than the mk4, both in design and for flow rate. milltek don't actually make the manifolds for the r32 anymore as they used to - think the mk5 setup is good enough and milltek kept on getting recalls with their flexi joints anyway. only snag is that you can't fit sports cats now unless you either go for the mk4 setup or have a custom manifold made up...

i would have to get you a piccie now, but basically the downpipes/flexis/cats are all one piece. the two downpipes come off manifolds similar to those on the vr, into two big/long flexis (about 1 foot long each) and then into the individual cats which then go into the single pipe afterwards. the part where exits from the cats join into one single pipe and then stops is roughly about where the end of the cat is on the standard vr exhaust, if that makes sense... the mk4 r32 downpipes are horrible wriggly restrictive nasty looking things

if it's any use to you i have an absolutely mint set of manifolds and cats from a mk5 r32. they are a better design than the nasty mk4 downpipes and they incorperate the downpipe/flexi/cats all into one unit - quite nice actually. i would only be after £100 for them and they have done barely 12k. only thing you would need is a stud or two where they've sheared on the manifold, but those aren't expensive from vw... car sounds lovely as always - get some more pics up for us, it's been a while :D

by the way does your inlet manifold flex a fair bit when you rev it hard?

aaawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww - i REALLY REALLY miss that noise! :( car is looking good matey. i would get either a standard airbox or a bmc to keep the noise to a minimum personally as i'm sure that will become tiring eventually. i would be really interested to have a go in this at some point soon to see how it compares to my previous effort. also if you speak to vag-doc (mark at south west in-car tech), i recon he'll be able to sort an ecu for you in matter of days at a good price. good for you pal. my old corrado is the only reason i want to turn the boost up on my evo - it's felt slow ever since i got it!

well, les hope you can see which way my family four door went when you get to the twisty bits eh Kip?! :wink: oh and i don't remember you moanng too much when you drove it! guess it was the cosy family interior and boring drive that settled your nerves! and yes - more boost is now imminent - courtesy of Mr Haywire :thumb right: it has to be said the more i drive it the more i love it. i hate the way it looks on the outside but all that melts away a soon as you get in and travel 10 yards. i got it quite nicely out of shape on a couple of empty roundabouts on the way down to salisbury today - awesome! the ease with which you can cover ground is staggering - on single track roads (private ones naturally) that i would normally comfortably do 65-70 when not in a hurry, i find myself doing nearer 100 and really not noticing it until i glance at the speedo! anyway - you're slacking and haven't worked on your car in a while now - sort it out! :D

absolutely loving your car Gareth, especially the recaros. i was on the phone to Dave the other night and he was saying just how nice they were - really want to see them in the flesh. are you going to be at E38 this weekend?

if you wind the lambdas out they will have the part numbers on them. any decent parts guy will be able to tell you which side they go on without any problems (i know this as i double checked before fitting mine). i take it you're getting the engine management light on too if thats the case... (can't remember the code number but the text reads something like impossible/improbable lambda reading).

it's a pretty easy mistake to make as the pedal will return of it's own accord on a lot of other cars - typical f'in corrados and their "quirks". let us know how you get on pal... :D

no worries - happy to help. if you pump the pedal with the nipple still open then air will be drawn back into the circuit... and Zak is right - it doesn't take much fluid for the clutch system - just make sure you keep the fluid level above the clutch take off from the reservior on top of the brake master cylinder otherwise it's a pointless exercise and you'll have to start all over again!

where abouts are you in the country - will be well worth getting someone with some rado experience off here to come and have a look at it with you... oh and if you're worried then do a compression test on it. hopefully the owner won't mind and it won't take long. that should hopefully show up potential problems for the immediate future anyway...

if you don't have an eazibleed setup then the correct way is as follows: always start bleeding from the furthest point away from the reservoir (same when doing the brakes). 1 - ensure reservoir is plenty topped up above the fluid take off from the main reservoir for the clutch master (see posts above). 2 - push a clear piece of washer fluid tubing over the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder so you can clearly see the fluid/air coming out of the bleed nipple (you may find it easier to push it over the nipple if you warm it slightly with a fag-lighter) 3 - open the bleed nipple and get a friend to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. (watch as air/fluid comes out). 4 - close the bleed nipple while your friend still has the pedal depressed to the floor and BEFORE he pulls it back up. 5 - get your friend to pull the pedal back up and take his foot/pressure off it. 6 - repeat steps 3-5 above until no more air comes out of the bleed nipple and you get a nice uniform flow of fluid that's all the same colour. once you're happy that there's no more air at the slave you can move onto the master if it has a bleed nipple on it. if it doesn't then you should be finished - move onto the final checks. 7 - to bleed the master (if applicable), follow the exact same steps as 3-5 above for the slave. there should be a fair bit less air here and it shouldn't take as long. final checks - pump the clutch pedal a few times and see how it feels (should obviously feel normal by now - i.e firmish and linear). check around all the fittings carefully for any leaks and ensure all bleed nipples are done up securely (don't forget to re-fit nipple caps if you've got them). if it's fine then start the car and try it in all the gears including reverse while the car is stationary. once you're happy with that take the car for a gentle drive and make ure it's behaving itself as you would expect it to. if that's the case then job done, pat yourself on the back and crack open a beer to celebrate!

hey Jay if you speak to Mark at South West In-Car Tech, he'll be able to sort you out with a CAN-BUS converter. http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/contactus.htm oh, and welcome back! the dash conversion is a nice idea - can you get some more pics of it now it's a bit more "in" with the holes for the glove box etc all filled and looking as they should do. nice work - please keep us posted Pete :D