pete_griff

i was told that even if you could make a car meet the emissions regs without a cat (e.g. putting an r32 into a post '91 car), it's still illegal as you legally have to have a cat on the car (for some bizzare and unknown reason!)

imo the silver borbets look the nicest - but then i'm not a big fan of the "down and out" thing that some vw people seem to like - up to you :) also if your car is (i think it's post 1991) then it must have a cat fitted by law, and it goes on the age of the shell, nothing else. so yep - you need a cat to be legal....

i've been watching this thread for a while now - fair play, your work is an absolute pleasure to look at! :D that looks good with the pipework for the intercooler too - can't see a problem with tig'ing those pipes onto the intercooler there - just make sure you get some nice flexi hoses in there somewhere to effectively isolate all engine movement with the pipes running that close to the rad, chassis leg etc you're going to have some fun insuring the beastie once you've got it finished aren't you?!

i'm not very familiar with the early vr6 engines with a dizzy i'm afraid, but it looks like the earlier ones don't have a cam sensor in the same place as the later ones (unless i'm mistaken - sure someone will correct me...) the circle i've highlighted was roughly where mine was (in my coilpack engine). looks like the sensor you've got might be for the later engine... that's certainly not gospel as i'm afraid i'm not familiar with the earlier engines; but it looks to me like it could be different

cam, sensor is the bit in my very roughly squiggled elipse buddy :)

Only with the 6 speed box Pete :salute: Hope we are both in a position one day soon to meet up and see :norty: Thats quite good 2.5k from Stealth. Does that include everything? haha - cool, i would be well up for that! :D do wish mine had a 6 speed box :( - i'm just finishing getting gearbox woes sorted now (had it rebuilt, but it has had a nasty rattle since...) and i'm getting them to fit a (passat tdi) taller 5th gear for motorway cruising.; next best thing i guess vince fairly recently did a Mk2 R32 conversion using all standard management etc, so i think that's the way he generally goes now unless you want to go crazy with turbos etc

no worries. i also forgot to mention - it's worth bleeding the bleed nipple on the clutch master itself after "the main" bleeding as you sometimes find you get a fair amount of air out of there as well... (the new clutch masters that are now supplied by vw don't have a bleed nipple on the master - it's all done at the slave :( )

hey there again pal - it is easy enough! it's advisable to drain the fluid from the system (or as much of it as you can) first. do this by attaching a nice long piece of washer jet hose to the bleed nipple on the slave, open it up and then watch all the lfuid drain out - simple! you may have to give the clutch pedal a few pumps at the end to make sure all the fluid has worked it's way out. you won't need to worry about bleeding the brakes; if you look on the reservoir, the take off for the clutch is about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down the reservoir on the side. the fluid level will drop to there, but no further - meaning that there will still be fluid in the braking system, no airlocks, and everything braking wise will be fine, so you don't need to touch the brakes - just make sure you refill the reservoir properly when you are putting it all back together! once you've got the last of the fluid out, rip everything out of the engine bay and begin fitting the new stuff. point to note - it's worth having a small bucket nearby with car shampoo etc in it and a clean rag/sponge to quickly remove any brake fluid that accidentally finds it's way onto your paintwork. as for bleeding (don't want to teach you to suck eggs) but it's worthwhile having a friend to hand here. if you don't then something like a Gunson Eezibleed kit is invaluable. anyway bleeding; get a friend to sit in the car once everything has been refitted. open up the bleed nipple on the slave get them to press the clutch pedal down and hold it to the floor, once the pedal is on the floor tighten up the bleed nipple and get them to allow the clutch pedal to rise back up again (most of the time when bleeding corrados, the pedal will actaully require pulling back up to the top). repeat this process many times until you get a nice constant stream of consistently coloured liquid with no air bubbles in it (this is where the washer tube comes in handy - don't forget to put the other end in a bottle or something to collect the excess). don't forget to keep a strict eye on the level of the reservoir during bleeding, as if you let air into the system from the top, it makes all your previous work useless! if you're doing it on your own with a gunson etc, then all the destructions will/should be included with the kit. good luck! :)

I would however, be interested to hear how you did the braided line, what's required, where you routed it and where you sourced it from, this sounds like a far better option imo, it eliminates the pipes from my problem, and I'd imagine should give the clutch a better feel? Also, I've been looking for information on the easiest way to get to and change the master cylinder, can you shed any light here? no worries pal - had the braided line made up at merlin motorsport when i popped by there not so long ago while finishing my car off - just took them the new master and said i wanted 1 meter of braided flexi line with the same male fitting on either end (think it's an M12 fine thread off the top of my head). the pedal feel is defo improved, i'm not happy with the routing of the flexi line at the mo as it's a little too loose and a bit messy - need to get busy with the zip-ties when i get the car back. (i just junked all the old hard/flexi lines by the way) the clutch master is fairly easy to get to - just two 13mm nuts inside the drivers footwell and the nut that holds the solid line into the master's outlet in the engine bay. the problems you'll have i've detailed above (if you decide to get hold of a new one at a later date). if you're replacing it with another older one, then it should be a straight swap and it's a pretty straightforward task :)

fair one - you'd be surprised just how "delicate" you can be with a soldering iron when it matters though! :lol: have a practice on something else first if you're worried!

it's got to be an r32 conversion. i haven't had the chance to drive mine much yet, but i'm VERY VERY VERY pleased with it. also (no offence or arguments etc intended here), but the claims of a schrick'd/cam'd N/A VR being able to keep up with an R32 conversion (IMO) really don't cut it - if they could keep up with mine given just how fast it feels, i would be seriously surprised... either supercharge yours (which is a little false economy IMO due to 12v rebuild costs, fuel economy, daily drivability etc etc compared to that of going 24v) or just bite the bullet and do the conversion. everyone i know who has done the conversion is very happy with the results. where abouts are you in the country? - if you're anywhere near the west midlands/south wales area, i'd be happy to give you a blast in my R32. (i'm just gutted i haven't got my sticky mitts on it at the moment as i'm having my gearbox issues worked out now to hopefully complete the last of a long list of things in the conversion saga) :)

if that was me i'd hold it in place with a tiny dab of superglue and then CAREFULLY plastic weld it back in place... not sure on a part number for a replacement; sorry :?

not wishing to rain on your parade or anything there (unless of course they are nearly new replacements). but it's false economy buying old second hand parts like that. the reason master cylinders/slave clinders etc fail is due to wear and tear through lots of use due to their age, and also due to internals etc rusting up as the fluid almost never gets changed as often as it should and water ingress causes things to go south. replacing the whole lot isn't that horribly expensive; although VW (bless their cottons!) have thoughtfully thrown a spanner into the works recently by superseeding all the old corrado clutch masters. this basically means for you that you'll have to get hold of a replacement clutch pedal as well due to the different mounting attachment of the newer master. the pedal costs around £35 from VW, but last i knew they were on back order from germany. alternatively you can get hold of them from certain older VW's (around a '95 or '96 passat for certain as i pulled one out of a passat on an M-plate). a new slave costs circa £30 iirc and the new flexi line costs circa £45 from VW (although i will have a brand new unused one for sale very shortly - please PM me if you're interested!) oh - one other thing - thoughfully by VW the solid lines that come off the master are different too - so you'll have to get some made up, or rob some from another vehicle - not sure on VW's solution to that, as i just went for braided straight from the master to the slave - which in all honesty is your best option here if you do have to go new OEM. hope that helps :)

looking good buddy. how long now then until it moves of it's own accord?! also i'm surprised you didn't shell out the extra cash and get some goodridge hoses while you were at it... looking good all the same 8)

hey pal, there are a couple of bleed nipples on top of the abs pump - you should wind those out and see what happens there; they are quite often forgotten about. also if you re-bleed the system then hold open the bias valve at the rear by unbolting it from the rear axle and hanging a set of molegrips or something off it to make sure it's as open as it can be. corrado vr6 brakes are notoriously crap to bleed! :?

Pete you have this thread wrong, its not a who has the biggest cock thread :grin: . This is a whats the best car you have been BEATEN by LOL. Please re-submit your homework by 3.30pm today :tongue: my bad! :ignore: to be fair i haven't raced much since i've got my car back, but while it was still the boggo VR i got my arse handed to me by an evo 8 fq340 on the carriageway a while back - he really did jump into warp speed coming off a roundabout! :shock:

i convincingly destroyed my friends' celica gt4 (st205) and it's not standard - happy! :) i'm REALLY looking forward to meeting my first impreza after doing my conversion :norty:

yes - guess i'm not going to quite the same lengths as you though bud! should be lovely :D (oh meant to say earlier - don't worry about asking Jon about my car - didn't get the gearbox sorted on fri as i was messed around by the garage :( )

Sorry mate, i have no idea :shrug: But it was made for a Brembo caliper (usually all very similar) to match onto a Cupra R disc. BTW the drawing shows 95mm to centres on the VR hubs, should be 94mm :? that's a nice idea pal - like that. it does sound to me though like you are just chickening out of doing it the "proper" way of re-housing the battery in the boot! :wink:

don't worry you don't need to attend the............... :lol:

why thank you dear :camp: :wink:

it would be very original in all fairness! - however i'm pleased to say i have an absolutely stunning girlfriend whom i love very much and am in no danger of doing the dirty on :nono: here's a piccy for you lucky gents...

that's spooky - you look EXACTLY like my mates girlfriend. they are both swedish; you're not swedish are you?!

only just seen this - quality thread guess i'd best post up a pic then and not chicken out (apologies it's not a funny/humiliating one!) (and no i don't have lazy eye, despite what the pic makes it look like!)

glad it's all coming together for you bud. feel for you with the matrix - i hated that job! i also dred to add up my costs; i don't think i'm going to bother! car is looking immaculate as always matey - top work :clap: :D