iceviolet

I have just had a quote from direct line which was the cheapest by far. £1110.90,fully comp. Im 21,been driving 4 years, 1 years no claims, dad on as a named driver, no points or accidents. Thats for a Vr6. Im currently with admiral and the renewal quote they quoted me is £1180, third party fire and theft! is there any other young corrado drivers out there?? how much are you paying if you don't mind me asking??

I had a bad missfiring problem last week, and before this my car also behaved like yours does, struggling a bit after you give it some. It turned out to be the coil pack on mine. But as you have had a new one, its very unlikely that it is that. The lambda reading should hover around 1.00. I had a few suggestions by other memebers to the cause of it though, The MAF sensor, knackered cat, blue temp sensor???

Problem solved!! It was the coilpack. Managed to get a Bosch one for just shy of £125, so wasn't too bad. Runs like a dream now, smoother on idle and also seems to start quicker too. The cat doesnt glow now either! Was thinking about getting a de-cat anyway, are they beneficial at all??

Yea i will have to get it checked out. Yes the lambda seems fine and the plugs are virtually brand new! I swapped over the cam sensor today aswell with another one i had just to eliminate that! Hopefully the new coil will solve my problems, should get it tuesday or wednesday.

I have no idea if its good? how do you tell?? It just sailed through the MOT last week. Anyhow I went for a short drive just now and the symptoms are the same. I have also just noticed that when i got home and turned the engine off, the usual ticking you get from the exhaust and cat cooling down was there but also some very loud ticks and cracks. suggesting its got hotter than normal, so i had a look under the car and noticed that the cat was glowing red! is this normal??

Well had a play around this morning cleaned connections to the lambda and MAF, took coilpack off and cleaned that up too. Had it plugged into vag-com and the lambda signal looks fine, hovering around 1. So i dont think it is that, and the MAF works i think,unplugged it when car was running and it definatley changed the running. My brother thinks it is the coilpack. Im going to get a new one and try it, the one that is on, is the original bosch one by the looks of it, date stamped 1993. So hopefully it is this. The only thing that makes me think it might not be is the fact it is fine until the engine warm?? Anyhow will post up the findings when ive changed it.

Well im going to have a look at and probably change the lambda sensor this weekend and see if it solves the problem.

Hi, this is a strange one. Travelling to work yesterday and the car was running fine, after 15minutes or so driving, stood ad the traffic lights the car nearly stalled and then ran very rough,lots of vibration and missfiring, hard to accelerate and constant missfiring. Did it again on the way home, same again after 15 minutes or so, ran perfect in the first fifteen minutes. Same again today. took all the plugs out,cleaned them and they looked fine really. started the car and let it run and again after about 15 minutes it nearly stalled an running rough and lumpy on idle and missfiring when revving and lots of vibration. Its very strange, like turning on a switch, gets warm after about 15 minutes then just runs like ive described. Has anyone come across this before and know what it is?? Thought about the coilpack but why would it wait 15 minutes before deciding to play up?? Plugs seem fine. Ive plugged the car into vag-com and the only code it came up with was oxygen sensor - intermittent, could this be a possible explanation for this?? cheers

I might try a local engine builder then, can you recall how much they were??

There has been a change of plan with the rebuild. I managed to get hold an ABV unit with minimal wear. So, im going to strip this and rebuild it with new parts instead of having the AAA re-bored to 2.9. Im after some information on where to get 2.9 piston rings, main bearings and thrust bearings from?? preferably from the UK. Does anyone know of anywhere apart from the main dealers of course?? cheers

I think its working fine, can hear it working when just the ignition is on. It didnt cook last time i changed the head, I changed the complete head to try and sort out a tapping noise i head. But it didnt cure it!

This morning I was enjoying a pleasant drive from Newcastle to Huddersfield, cruising down the A1, when about halfway there I suddenly noticed out of the rear view there was something a miss!! lots and lots of what I thought was smoke, and i mean lots, pulled over immediately and then realised it wasn't smoke but lots of steam, as it was now pluming out from under the bonnet, I opened the bonnet and outcame a big cloud of steam! :censored: My first thoughts were that the headgasket had blown, which i had changed less than a month ago. The expansion tank was empty and with no water to put in i had to phone the RAC. :help: Whilst waiting i was just dredding the thought of having to change the gasket again today in the cold. Waited about 1/2 an hour and he arrived and at first thought the same about the head gasket, He then decided to fill with water and just check some things. It was my lucky day!!! The coolant hose that comes from the matrix to the throttle body and cylinder head, had a massive gash on the underside and was just spewing the coolant all over the engine and exhaust! Managed to just cut the hose further up from the gash and pull it on to the cylider head. Topped up the water, let it warm up again and i was good to go! Really is worth having breakdown cover, had them out twice now, only had the car 10 months! Suppose it is part and parcel of been a Corrado owner! I took a photo of the car whilst waiting.

This happened to me the other day too, just steamed up in the right hand corner of the clocks though. is it whole dash out for replacing the matrix?? I did one on a mk2 golf a few years ago but cant remember, can remember a lot of swearing though!

Yes there was a bit of a step from crud to bore, could feel it quite well when i ran my finger over it. What does this indicate? I cleaned it up anyhow. I use the super unleaded 99 octane from tesco all the time so could this be producing the yellow deposits?? Well ive done quite a bit of work under the bonnet on the corrado now since i bought it, so im going to concentrate on the bodywork and suspension next. Rear beam next on the list, as the road noise has returned after just a couple thousand miles on new tyres. Aswell as continuing with my vr6 rebuild in the garage, want to keep the 12V VR6 alive.

Right, did a bit of work on the car yesterday and this morning. Changed the head for a re-conditioned one, fitted some re-conditioned injectors and changed the oil and plugs. It seems to have cured the tapping noise on idle, the car sounds quiter now when idling. But the noise when accelerating under load is still their, although didnt seem that bad today. The head i took off was in very good condition, still very shiny from machining and also the gasket looked quite new, so looks like the head was replaced not so long back. The bores looked fine to me, i didnt have my bore mics with me to measure them but i could still see the honing marks on the bores. The only thing i noticed about the bores was that they had a lot of black "crud" around the top, on the lead-in,and also the pistons had like a yellowish crap on them too. What could this be?? But all in all was a worthwhile effort, even in the cold and wind. Has quietened the engine slightly, seems a bit more responsive aswell somehow and also was good experience for me. My first head gasket! Heres a few pics:

Oilman, what is your opinion on millers CFS 10w60? and can you get it? Has anyone ever tried this is their vr6, was reading a leaflet at work from millers oils and this was on it, thinking about trying it, just wanted to know if anyone had tried it and if its any good?? cheers

I am currently rebuilding a 2.8 block in my garage to eventually swap over with the engine in my corrado. Today I took the car to a mate of a mate who knows the vr6 quite well and he said that it is top end. Either a valve, guide,seal or tappet. or a combination of all, leaky guides and seals producing a low oil pressure,hence the tappet not working correctly. Its got me thinking and it fits the bill with the fact that my car has started using quite a bit of oil recently, (valve guides and seals) and also that the noise dissapears at over 3000 revs, (when enough pressure has built up). He told me to check plugs 1 and 6 and that would tell me if the bores were nackered. I have a fully re-con head and gasket set in the garage destined for the rebuild, is it worth using up the gaskets and bolts to find out?? If it does cure it then i suppose it takes the pressure off doing the rebuild and will save me a lot of time out in the cold trying to change the engine! If it doesnt, it just means another £100 in the corrado's belly! Heres pics of plugs 1 and 6, they have been in a few thousand mile, what do you reckon??

Been looking on the net for pistons, Found some that i may possibly be able to stretch to?maybe? would these be appropriate: http://www.flatlander-ipp.co.uk/wiseco/wiseco-vw.shtml Its the ones at £412. 82,82.5 or 83mm, compression ratio of 10.5:1? cheers

Thanks for the offer mate but im away for the weekend in newcastle so wont be able to take you up on it. Thanks anyway.

just fooking tight then. Just checking in case there was something i hadnt done. Yeah ive got a big windy gun at work, will rattle it off with ease probably, its 1 inch drive. Had to use it on my front hub nuts before. they flew of with it. Its just a matter of getting the block to work now. Dont fancy lifting it in and out of the corrado!

Anyone ever taken the crank pulley off?? struggling to undo the bolt holding it on. Is there something im missing or is it just fooking tight?? had the crank held against rotation at the flywheel side and me swinging on a 2ft breaker bar on the pulley bolt. hasnt moved a bit.

Quick Update: Well ive had a measure of the bores tonight. Not as bad as first thought actually. Cylinders 1 and six the worst, as expected, with readings at varying points on the bore of 3.190" to 3.191". The other cylinders were all quite similar with 3.189" to 3.190". so not much difference, but 1 and 6 are on their wear limits and due to the scoring on number 6, im still going to rebore. As regards to new pistons, ive been looking on the net and come across a set of wiseco pistons. Are these reputable or garbage?

i had the 4 wheel laser alignment done when i had new tyres on and it didnt pick up that the rear was out. The guy just said that front was a fair bit out.

I was thinking about getting your bottom end, and then this cropped up not far from where i live and with it been complete i thought its worth that just for the spares thats on it. Im going to get the bore mic's on it tonight and find out how bad it actually is.

Yeah hopefully will get a load of pics up as the rebuild takes it course. I use my car as a daily and cant afford to have it off the road for any length of time really. So using the 2.9 pistons is a no go really. Ideally i want to have my engine built up and just be ready to swap over.