iceviolet
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Everything posted by iceviolet
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Im not sure if they are the right ones or not?? maybe someone could confirm it. I thought the ones i needed have a banjo end and then a screw with a hole in, bolts the banjo to the caliper??
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Thanks, yeah its worth a try, I think its just one of the ends is a banjo type unlike the corrado ones which are just screwed together. I'll try that with blocking the exhaust up and see what comes of it, thinking about getting a new exhaust cat back system anyhow so just hope its not the manifold. Thanks for the replies.
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Done some work over the weekend on the car and have managed to cross a few items of my list: 1)Paintwork tidied up last week 2)New stub axles, bearings, discs, splash shields, braided brake hose on rear 3)AP Coilovers on 4)New wheels on So all i need to do now is get the rear beam bushes done and fit the 288 brakes. I have already got the braided hoses for the rear, and I am wanting to buy the front braided hoses for the 288 but can't find anywhere that sells them on their own?? Can anybody help me out with that???? The engine seems to be running fine still, only thing is the exhaust sounds to be blowing, sounds like its coming from the manifold area, hope its not cracked or something, took me ages to wrap it!!! :mad2: I need to get some pictures up of the car with the new wheels and suspension on but my girlfriend is on holiday and has taken my camera with her. Ill get some up when i get hold of a camera.
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Got some of these, they are on and i am very pleased with the ride. Very comfortable indeed, i have gone from standard suspension on 15" speedlines to these coilovers on 17" wheels. I was expecting the ride to be harsh, not at all, Well pleased with them! :clap: :clap:
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Think ill be getting some of these. All im after is comfort and adjustable height. Where is the best/cheapest place to buy these from???
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Thanks for the comments guys, i have taken the advice and i am saving the silkolene. I changed the oil on friday and i have done about 300 miles this weekend, engine didnt miss a beat. Running slightly warm but nothing major. The next jobs on my list are: 1)Rear beam bushes and stub axles. Had a droning noise ever since i got the car and i think its down to a bent stub axle, rear tyres wearing unevenly ever so slightly. Gets louder the longer you leave it. Had new tyres on and it was quiet for a while and now is getting noisy again. 2)Buy and fit new suspension set up, probably coilovers. 3)Put 288mm brakes on front which i have already got and refurbished. Braided hoses all round. 4)Ding in front wing removed and re-painted, also panel under tailgate needs new paint, rust bubble and rust around the wels seam on the back. After all that im going to try leave it alone for a while. Will that ever happen????
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Thanks for the advice guys. im going to change the oil and filter next week with some fuchs gsf stuff, then after about 500 or so do it again with the silkolene. Karl, no i have not got them on yet, im waiting until i get some suspension, tried one on though and they look well. Will get some pics up when i get the suspension. Been keeping an eye out on the forum for some but nothings come up.
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Yeah i hope i can make it, just need to get a little paint work sorted on the car too. My oil temp is quite high too, normal driving its around the 106 mark and motorway 114. My water temp gauge shows high 90's, always has done, i think the gauge is not very accurate. The fans kick in fine so dont think theres a problem. I am thinking about fitting a mocal oil cooler to mine as i would like the oil to sit around the 90's. I know this is not really an option for you as you are keeping the car standard as it came from the factory, which is excellent by the way :notworthy:
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There is a guide on vortex, here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1510186 Its for a mkiv 12v vr6 but im sure you will get the idea.
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Deffo sounds like battery mate, thats exactly what mine was like when it was left for 3 weeks, a good charge and its been fine since
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Yes the leads are a little untidy, i am going to get some thinner ones that actually fit in the cable trays. Those blue ones are 10mm and are way too thick. Terry, i want your interior!!!!
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Just a quick update on how its going since the installation. The engine seems to be running fine, i have done over a 100 miles now keeping it under 4000 revs. Had no leaks yet either, of oil or water, which i was expecting to be honest. There is a slight blow on the exhaust somewhere, think its just where the manifold meets the cat and just needs nipping up. Hopefully. Going to dump the oil out of it soon and fill it up with some good stuff, just bought some silkolene. Does anybody agree that about 100 miles ish is about the right time to change the oil afetr a rebuild???? Also finished the inlet manifold and put it on yesterday, im not too sure on it to be honest, might grow on me! See what you think? A few pictures of yesterdays work:
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Any feedback on these HayesVR6??
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VR6 running Problem can't find answer in search update:22/06
iceviolet replied to zak's topic in Engine Bay
ive just rebuilt a vr engine and to set the timing, The ground down tooth on the crankshaft sprocket needs to be lined up horizontally,in line with the split in the bearing shells.(to left hand side if looking directly onto the crankshaft sprocket). Then the intermediate shaft sprocket needs to be lined up with one of the two marks on the plate and then the cams need to be lined with the timing tool plate. -
Dubmeister do a lot of euro style wheels www.dubmeister.co.uk
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Insuring a vr6 when young is pricey! I renewed my insurance for my vr6 early this year, was 21 at the time, I just went 22 this february and have only 1 years no claims and i am paying a shade over 1k,fully comp. Thats with direct line, cheapest i could find by a long shot! So if you have 4 years NCB i would imagine it would be a fair bit cheaper than 1k???
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Curiosity got the better of me, tested the compression again after a short run to warm the engine up. Readings were as follows: Cyl 1 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 2 - 11.75 Bar Cyl 3 - 11.00 Bar Cyl 4 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 5 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 6 - 11.5 Bar So the mysterious low compression in cyl 4 has now gone, and the difference in pressure is only 0.75 Bar approx 11 psi. all good! :clap:
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Yeah i am quite pleased with it and how it went. Might loosen the mounts off again and try that see if it helps., and also going to take a closer look at the exhaust, think it could well that. Bruny, how much lower was the compression on your cylinder with the dodgy reading?? in my manual it says the max difference is 3 bar, 45psi in english. And minimum compression is 7.5 bar,108.7psi. So they are well within tolerances. Do you have any suggestions on why it could be low?? cheers
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:clap: :clap: :clap: Got the engine in and running today! Had a few problems with coolant leaks and fitting the 6-branch, but sorted now! Going to be taking it very easy to begin with, below 3000 revs everywhere for the first 100 miles or so! I was well pleased with my efforts, got the engine all connected up,leaks sorted etc, braced myself for disaster, turned the key to try start it, the engine must of only cranked 2 or 3 times and it fired up straight away, no clattery noises or tapping like my other engine!! :clap: :clap: Just needs a bit of tidying up though as i had to kind of rush to get it finished before it started raining, and also my inlet manifold that ive been polishing isnt ready so i will have to change it at a later date, just wanted to get it running! There is just a couple niggles i had from the first test drive, i was driving sensibly, did about 35 miles or so, the oil was getting quite warm. it was sitting at around 110, it usually sits at around 100 driving like that?? this just because its wearing itself in maybe?? The other thing was that when its idling you seem to feel the vibration through the car a lot more, could this be due to the 6-branch at all?? or if the exhaust isnt sitting correctly?? Apart from that the first test drive went quite well. Bruny, i did a quick compression test before i fired it up and i was getting around 11.5 bar on all apart from cylinder 4,which was only 9.5???? strange,maybe that cylinder wasnt aswell lubed as the others?i dunno? but i was reading somewhere that the true compression readings should be taken with the engine at operating temperature, was going to take them again with it warm but i just wanted to drive it once i got it running. I think i will do it when i change the manifold over again.
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I had this, really annoying, i just put some insulating tape around them, as you say theres not much room, i maybe just wrapped it around twice, totally stopped the rattling though! :D
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ouch! well i have torqued the bolts up to what it says in the bentley manual,so should be ok i hope. As far as i know the only difference in the coilpack and dizzy engines are the upper timing chain cover is different and the camshaft has a drive key on instead of a trigger wheel for the cps. The block which i am using was a 2.8 dizzy engine, so i have the bits for both.
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Yea ill take some compression readings and put them on here, I hope i dont have to take it out again once its in! Hope it runs too and doesnt just go bang or when i turn the key! This is my first engine ive built from scratch so im a bit nervous about it being an absolute disaster!!!! It turns over quite smoothly by hand which is a good sign. The old lump, I dont think its past it by any means, it pulls like a train. The only thing thats made me change the engine is this weird knocking/tapping noise it makes and it uses a little oil, but not loads . Sometimes it sounds perfectly fine then other times its sounds bad! Especially when cold and when its quite hot. Since i bought the car just over a year ago the engine has had; chains and tensioners done,big end bearings,new tappets, complete head rebuild,new serp belt,different oil pump and still no cure! A mechanic i know said it could possibly be a little end that gone, rare but possible, and to get to that you might aswell just do a rebuild. I have another ABV block which apparently is low mileage but i have not got round to measuring it up yet. So to be honest i dont really know what to do with the old lump yet.
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Todays update: Been quite busy today, didnt do much yeaterday as it was raining most of the day! Heat wrapped my 6 branch manifold and removed the engine from the car today. Went smoother than i thought it would,apart from two exhaust nuts on the downpipes which had to be chiselled off :bad-words: ! So plans for tomorrow are to just try clean up the bay a little and get the new engine ready to go in, possibly drop it in on its mounts depending on the time. I am hoping to have the engine fully in and connected up by sunday! Depends how ratted i get on saturday night really! :D Few pics from todays shift!!
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Yes you can just use a large slat punch and tap them out slowly and evenly. I have access to a lathe and i made up some discs and pressed them out, either way just dont damage the locations.
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Hello there, Been a while since the last update. I was out of the country for three weeks with work so not much work got done on the rebuild. However, I have decided it needs finishing, so I have got the rest of the week off work to try and get it done. Need to finish building the engine, get the old engine out and the new one in. I have been working on the engine today and it is nearly complete, I am picking up a few bits that I need to complete it tomorrow from VW. (Manifold Gaskets,Flywheel Bolts and Engine Mounts) I am also hoping to get the old engine out tomorrow, or at least make a start on taking the front of the car apart, weather permitting of course. Anyhow, few update pics of the build so far:
