iceviolet

Have you tried a local engine builder?? When i took my block to get re-bored at my local they asked me if i needed the rings to go with it. Im sure any engine builder/machine shop will be able to supply you with some. IIRC they cost me £20+vat for each set. Hope this helps. http://www.wdrake.co.uk/index.htm This is the place i went to.

Its a Holset HX40, it was stupidly cheap and brand new so I thought id give it a try, after doing some research there are a few people running them on Skylines (2.5 6 cylinder) and their making 1 bar of boost at 3k so it should be ok. I can always put a smaller hot side on it if its crap! :lol: Nice, ill be interested in how it goes with that on as ive got a holset turbo in the pipeline, HX35 with 14cm^2 volute and a HX40 comp wheel 83mm. So should spool up quickly! They are big and heavy but virtually industructable! i go to uni with a few guys who work at holset and they say they can take some right stick! The tests they put them under in the R+D department are mental!

What turbo spec is that?? is it a holset hx35??

Is this longer bolt the same as what DG Autotech sell?? here: http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index. ... &Itemid=87 If so i think ill also be getting the cooler set up from matt lewis and the longer bolt from DG. I once emailed matt lewis racing asking about the extension bolt and like you said its the one that requires removal of water/oil cooler.

HX83!!!! Crikey thats a bit on the big side i think!! they can weigh up to 50kg and are over a foot wide according to the holset website! bet the vr6 wouldnt be able to spool it!lol!!

I had this problem with my vr6, scorpion alarm. It was the relay inside the alarm module sticking. Mine was buried behind the glovebox, just a bit below. It had two fuse holders on wires going into the box itself, one for each side. I removed the fuse to the side that was on and now just one side of the car flashes when alarming and disarming and the other side doesnt flash. But the indicators and hazards still work as it must be on a seperate loop for that. Try find your alarm module, im guessing it will be very similar with the fuse situation. hope this helps

Mates rates is why its cheap

have found RETARDED but doesnt seem to be selling a turbo?? selling other bits though,may have sold it. Anyway, back to the original post, any advice/feedback/suitability??? 8)

No mate its not, i havent seen it, will have a look now though!

Hi guys, just wondering if anyone has had any experience with using a holset turbo on a vr6?? I have been toying with the idea of putting some kind of blower on my vr6 for a while now. Not 100% decided on charged or turbo, but turbo seems to be the way to go these days. I may have the oppurtunity to get my hands on a HX35, cheap in the near future. Just wanted to know if anyone has any feedback, or thoughts on them. And also if it would be suitable on a vr6. The spec of the turbo is: HX35 with 14cm^2 volute and a HX40 comp wheel 83mm Like i say, would this turbo be suitable/manageable on a vr?? If so i think ill give it a go, be a nice project for me, i have a spare engine to mock it up on in my garage.

Got hold of a number 43 relay, put in and still no joy, exactly the same. Im going to have to take the fusebox out and trace the wires maybe, make sure they arent snagged/cut or anything like that. Its really annoying me now.

The calipers should be ate, and from the late golfs only to get away without using spacers. I thought i needed spacers when i came to fitting mine but it turned out i had been given the wrong discs, the later ones,still 288 5x100pcd but are about 5mm taller than the earlier ones,hence the need for spacers.

It is a bit baffling how some work with and some without, i went to the scrappies the other day, a late corrado in there didnt have a relay 5 in the fusebox either. Could there be some kind of relay/chip on the actual clock circuit board that controls it. As ive been looking at the wiring diagrams,and i am no expert with electronics but all i see is that from the coolant level sensor in the expansion tank, one wire grounds in the headlight loom and the other goes to the dash. Thinking about trying someother clocks??

Yep, luck ran out this year!! :( Needs 3 new brake pipes that come out of the bias valve, going to get the garage to do it as i just cant be arsed with doing them. So should be back on the road Thursday at last!!

Think its about time the Corrado came out of hibernation, its been sat in the garage since november! MOT booked in for 12 o'clock today! Keeping fingers crossed! it has passed the last two with no problems at all, maybe my luck will have run out this time! I have changed a steering rack boot, abs sensor, front top mounts and radiator top hose at the weekend. So fingers crossed it doesnt fail on something stupid like emmisions!!!

Thats what i thought, because it did work before so why would it suddenly require a relay that wasnt there in the first place. I guess that it just depends on how early or late your car is

The engine number should be stamped on the actual block, at the top just under the cylinder head on the side where the crank pulley is, it will most probably be difficult to read as cast iron rusts very well. There is usually the engine code on the sticker on the cam cover, i think thats what you mentioned in your post, abv engines come with both metal or plastic covers, plastic are the later ones.

Just consulted the bently manual, and it states that from 1992 to Jan 1993 relay 5 was open, then from Jan 1993 onwards relay 5 had the ECL Control module, production number 43 as yandards stated before. My car is an L reg, first registered on 12/10/1993 according to the log book. So i would of thought it would be Jan 1993 onwards?? with the relay number 5?? Or is this a load of garbage as the bentley is for the american corrado??

Yep deffo not one in location 5, it has a 5 on the plastic on the middle of the socket. The one next to it, 6 is the flasher relay which i have replaced before. Never had one in 5. I just cant see how it worked before without it?? Im going to vw tomorrow to pick up some bits, guess ill have to buy a relay aswell. Most likely be to order so will have to wait to see if it cures it!

I would if there was a relay in position 5!! its not got a relay in! Im guessing i should have a relay in that slot?? How the hell has it worked before if there was never a relay in there?? Im confused :scratch: :scratch:

i have tried bridging the connection too and it made no difference, still flashing. Its just annoying more than anything! might take the bulb out!lol!

As title, my coolant light started flashing a while ago now, the car was then garaged for the winter and now its time to bring it back out again. I bought a mk4 header tank and plug to go with in hope that this would cure the flashing light and also allow me to top up coolant without the use of a hammer. Fitted it today and no joy, still flashing constantly. I understand it flashed when not enough coolant is present and also when overheating. The car has plenty coolant and is not over heating. So what else could make it flash?? Could one of the yellow,blue or black sensors on the thermo housing cause it?? Cheers

i bought a full repaiur kit for some 288mm brakes from this site: http://www.biggred.co.uk Im sure they will do the bleed nipples Hope this helps

Green, M reg, unsure what flavour in Huddersfield Uni car park just off the ring road

I think its the second one down on the list on the website, DIN 81060 Cost me £90 which i didnt think was bad Sorry if I've missed something, but whereabouts did you get it? I got it from a shop local to me in Dewsbury called Valley Batteries, They just sell batteries nothing else. Unfortunately their website is not up and running yet.