iceviolet

Due to me not being happy with the noises my vr6 is making i decided to buy a AAA engine and rebuild it, and then change out my original engine. I picked one up quite cheap for £150, "perfect runner" the guy said, but as i couldnt hear it running as it was already out of the car, i had to just suck it and see. My plan was to strip it down and to do a complete overhaul and just hone and re-ring if possible. but if not, re-bore and dig deep into my pocklets!! Got the head of the engine today to have a look at the bores. They need re-boring, there are score marks on all the cylinders and quite deep ones on cylinder 6. Cylinder 1 is full of oil and all the piston gaps look quite large, haven't measured yet, will do that tomorrow. So im after some advice on the rebuild as i have not done one before, but mainly on piston selection. I dont want to be breaking the bank and im not too bothered about turboing or supercharging. Not yet anyway. So whats the best options available for me? And rough prices if possible?? Thanks, some pics of the engine below

I think the noise is coming back. It was so quiet when i had the new tyres and tracking done, and now its starting to get a bit rumbley again. Not a lot but definately getting more audible each week and i am starting to get a little bit more wear on the insides of the rear tyres. So i am guessing that i might be in need of these "special spacers". These special spacers, what exactly are they?washers? and how much are they from stealth does anyone know? Cheers

oh well, looks nice when just sat anyway! where was this huddersfield meet at? is it a regular?

Looking nice mate, what suspension are you using? sits perfectly!

Plugged it into vag-com and had no fault codes at all. My cousin mechanic had another listen and still says its either little end rattle/piston slap. Have noticed the car is quite clattery on the cold mornings now and noisier and takes a bit longer to quieten down a bit. So maybe it is just the pistons or bores. Think the plan from here is to try get hold of a short block, possibly a 2.8 and rebore it. Rebuild it in my garage and when its complete swap it over. I already have a re-con head it my garage which i was going to put on the car but not much point wasting the gaskets if the bores/pistons are fecked! So would probably be easier to build the complete engine instead of just a block and swap the whole lot. That sound like a good idea? any other options? and im on tight budget! I have been looking at pistons from america, seem a hell of a lot cheaper than over here! still expensive though! suppose, for everything else theres mastercard!

Right then ill get it plugged into vag-com soon as i can and see what that brings up! Would a dodgy injector(s) cause this or add to it?? Just wondereing really because i have got some refurbished injectors on their way, to my knowledge the ones on the car have never been changed and have done 129000 now, so thought id get some new ones to change anyway! Thanks for the advice guys

Hello there, I still havent sorted this noise out yet. I left it to see if it would get any worse, and it hasnt at all, just the same. I guy at work said it might be just pinking?? I thought pinking only occurred mainly at highish revs? The noise is only when the car is under load at the lower revs. Especially noticeable when going up hills at lowish speeds. But it also just taps when idleing sometimes, but not all the time, sometimes its quiet. When i accelerate, under load sharpish the noise starts, sounds a bit like a machine gun, ta ta ta ta ta, until about 2 and half thousand and beyond and it goes away. I can depress the pedal hard and the noise starts instantly but if i just back of the pedal its goes away? is this pinking? :confused4:

Hi, i need a drivers side kit please. pm me details of payment and i will sort out straight away, handle went tonight need to fix asap as i drive it daily! cheers, sam

That was for 205/50/15 for the standard speedline alloys. Got them from a place just near me called tyremarket, its on the A62 leeds road, six lane ends, heckmondwike.

Cured!! New tyres have sorted the noise! Very quiet now, very pleased. I got two new fronts, opted fot some kumho ku31. Ive had these before on my other car and did recall how quiet they were and was surprised how they handled too, i think they are quite a good tyre,no complaints yet anyway. £50 each balanced and fitted so quite cheap aswell. I can drive the corrado without worrying that any moment the weels are going to drop off!!!!

Hey, havn't had time to get the wheels aligned yet but i decided today to try and swap the back wheels to the front and front to back to see if the noise follwed the wheels. It did, there is no noise from the back now from what i can hear and it has definately just moved to the front. Im thinking that its just the tyres that are making the noise! so im going to get some new tyres and get it aligned at the same time. Any reccomendations for tyres for the front? i dont want to be breaking the bank either, just some decent ones. The wheels are the standard speedlines. Cheers

Yea not too expensive, had some silly quotes! 750 quid was the dearest! ended up costing me just shy of 300 quid. That was with the fitting and everything included, don't know how much the actual screen was as it doesnt say on the receipt.

They have to put their percentage on the rubber he said so would be cheaper to buy it myself. I couldnt go through insurance because i dont have fully comp, only 21with 0 ncb as ive always been a named driver so fully comp was way high!

Had my new windcreen put in today, had it done at rac windcreens and they seem to have done a good job. They said they could get the three trims off intact and i didn't need to buy new ones, and they did get them off. Don't know how they did. They did tell me to buy the rubber seal that goes around the windcreen as it would be cheaper for me to buy it than them, which was nice of them. Car looks a whole lot better with the clean, chip and scratch free windscreen. They got me a sekurit one with the green top tint, a lot better than the plain one i had in before.

Right then, i will try get it booked in for the wheel alignment at a decent place and see what they come up with. Going to also do the rear axle bushes, ive got the bits waiting to go on, just a job ive not been looking forward to doing, looks a mare to get off with that brake compensator in the way, had a look and tried undoing the bolts and they are corroded to hell. The car hasnt been stood really, was stood for a month back in march but used nearly every day since that. Im pretty sure the exhaust isnt rubbing on anything, its all tight and heatshields are on secure. what is a delaminating rear tyre?? special spacers? is this an option instead of replacing the stub axles? thanks for the replies, very helpful

right thanks very much. There is a place just near me that advertises laser tracking. Is this the best one or are there other/better methods?? not very knowledgeable with tyres.

ok, thanks for the quick replies! ill book it in somewhere for the wheels aligning (any reccomendations??), hopefully that should sort it! is there any way of telling if the stub axles are on their way out?? i seem to recall them looking fine when i did the bearings.

Hi, Ever since owning my VR ive had this droning noise which sounds like its coming from the rear. Really sounded like a wheel bearing on its way out. Just noisy all the time and then get louder at around 40 mph but doesnt get any louder after that. I replaced the rear wheel bearings, discs and pads on both sides to start with, this made no difference at all. I also changed out the rear shock absorbers with new bump stops on both sides too. Still no difference. I then thought maybe its a front bearing transferring the noise to the rear. I have now changed both front wheel bearings, and replaced the two ball joints hoping this would cure the problem. No, still exactly the same. Could this kind of noise be generated by the wheel alignment being out or tyre noise?? I decided to take a closer look at the tyres today and i have found that the rear tyres are worn on the inside edge more than the outside edge. Also the inside edge tread pattern is uneven, is this due to them being a directional tyre?? im no expert on tyres. They are avon zv1 by the I think i definately need to get the wheels aligned, but can anyone think of any other possible causes of this droning noise?? Im thinking about doing the rear axle bushes next but dont know if this would cause it?? cheers

Hey, did you purchase the trims from vw?? and how much did they set you back?? Im replacing my windscreen very shortly and i will probably need the trim as mine seems to be glued down tight aswell. cheers

Yep, just a game of elimination at the moment! definately sounds like a similar scenario to mine with the ticking until at higher revs. If it is the manifold, would i be aswell (if im feeling flush) changing it out for one of these 6 branch stainless ones that are knocking about on ebay for around £200 or are they just cheap and nasty??

never thought of the exhaust maifold? think ill look into that one, and keep my fingers crossed that its that!

Possibly, i think all i can do is leave it and see if it gets any worse. Ill try the silkolene oil and see if that quietens it down.

Yes i replaced the tappets as thats what i initially thought it was. Made no difference so then moved onto the big ends and replaced all those. no difference and now the chains have been done and still no difference. It is really baffling me, im thinking it probably is piston slap or little end rattle. Could it be valve noise?? It does it on tick over and soon as you touch the accelerator it dissapears. But when driving if you accelerate hard from low revs you get a quite loud tap tap tapping noise until over about 2200 rpm then the engine sounds like it should there after. I was running the car on castrol edge sport 10w-60 before, but the oil got changed when the chains were done so Im going to try the silkolene oil when i change in a few hundred miles, once the chains have got comfortable. hope it makes some difference. As for the cooler im very tempted to get one. mine sits exactly the same as yours did, about 114 on the motorway and around 100+ just normal driving. would be happier if it where more round 80 to 100. Would fitting one effect the time it takes for the oil to get to the right temperature?? like being cold for too long?? cheers

Hello again! Finally had the chains, clutch and tensioner done. Needed new mounts aswell as the ones it was on were shot. The tapping/knocking noise is still there. Hasn't made a bit of difference. The top tensioner was worn and had broken at the top, the clutch is awesome now, no squealing when setting off. The mechanic (my cousin) said that someone had been into the chains before as the bolts were rounded and some stripped. had to helicoil a few of them. Also behind the lower chain cover the block had been cracked at somepoint in its life and welded, he said it was professional job not the cheap stiching hes come across before and its perfectly fine. But he also mentioned that when he set the engine before stripping, he noticed that the sprocket on the bottom chain was a tooth out from the markings. The top chain was fine. He says that this what was causing the car to rev high on cold start up before dropping to a idle, now its perfect and also before if revved just after start up the car would splutter for a while and nearly stall. Now that doesnt happen either. The car definately feels more responsive now the chain is on in the right place. Just wondered if any of you had come across this before?? As for the tapping/knocking noise he reckons its just a little end noise or piston slap, definately on one of the first three cylinders he says. I have noticed that it does it when cold then goes away when warm but comes back when hot, over 100 oil temp, mainly on tick over. Next door neighbour had a vr golf and said his did exactly the same! dont worry about it! Would fitting an oil cooler be wise? is it an easy job to do so? Cheers

Right, im going to be buying the timing parts. Just a few Questions im not sure on, should i just buy totally standard, original parts or: 1) Would i be better off getting the later style upper tensioner??the solid polymer one? 2)if i got the above, would i need the different tensioner bolt to go with it?? 3)Which is the best clutch to put in? 4)Would it be worth replacing the head at the same time? i can get hold of a totally recond head with all valves and guides and cams etc cheap. 5)If i did (4) which head gasket is best? ive heard a 24v vr6 head gaskets are better? Think thats about it, unless you can think of anything else? cheers