Sean_Jaymo

Same as a new Golf R then?

I still think it's the crack sensor. No way to test though. They don't always pop fault codes either. The wiring insulation breaks down over time and with the wiring right next to the bottom of the block, The heat won't help the situation.

Glad this car which was potentially going to the scrap yard before it was rescued by Sean and now sold onto another enthusiast! The gear change is naturally a bit woolly, I think new cables are the only cure but a short shift can disguise it very well indeed. I've driven a car with one of Daves short shift kits and it was very nice indeed!

Best colour for a Corrado :-)

Crank sensor? They don't show up fault codes sometimes when they're bust.

How old is the oil cooler?

I'm not sure if this was targeted at me or not? Either way, I'm still running the standard controller but for those who don't want to use it or it's broken or removed for some other reason, you can get controllers which sit in the coolant pipe work or screw into the radiator switch position. Swifty, I got my fan from Burton power. They are a Ford specialist but were the cheapest.

No welding what so ever needed for the 02j setup.

Does that mean from tomorrow the forum goes quiet?

Even you can fix this! You know where the horn is from a post a few pages back, look for the plugs on it and see what plugs in the area look the same and swap them. They are the only plugs which can be mis-connected on the car which are near each other.

The plugs for the horn and fog lights in the loom are exactly the same. I'd hazard a guess that when the front of the car came off for a new radiator, these plugs were cross connected, easily done as they are in a similar area.

Does it really matter Mat? He has decided that is what he wants and he is free to ask for it. If he doesn't get it, then that's his problem. My Corrado is only worth a couple of grand at most, but to me it worth a whole load more than that if someone wanted to pry its keys from my grubby little mits.

A bad cooler is not likely to pressurise the coolant system. Oil in the coolant can be the cooler but oil seeping into the coolant won't pressurise the coolant.

I'd say head gasket or oil cooler. But with the coolant pressurising, I'd say head gasket is more probable.

Nothing in the car takes a bulb that big? They are similar to the bulbs for the dash lights but it's too big.

I'd probably weld in a larger piece if it were me. I personally find it easier to fit a larger item and make it look good than a smaller one.

If both fans spin easy then you have nothing to worry about unless something has come loose and it's causing it to make a nasty noise.

I'd weld in a new piece, fibreglass has a different rate of expansion than ABS plastic so over time will crack. Filler sinks too when used heavily, a skim is cool but more than that and it sinks over time. Have you see how much the rear bumper flexes down there?

If you look at the fans you can see that there is only one motor. This motor has 2 built in resistors that control fan speed depending on fan power requirements of the fan controller, the bit connected to the front of the coolant bottle. There is a rubber band that connects the second fan to the first. Did you turn the fan connected to the motor or the other one? If you turned the other fan and it moved easily, there is a chance that the rubber band has come off and is able to move freely. The notchyness you are looking for is in the motor so make sure you turned the fan connected to the motor. If it is connected and it is as dramatic as you say it is, do as Sean says and make sure the fan is in one piece. Do a bit of fault diagnosis and see if the motor or fan housing is loose, give everything a shake and see if you can find out if anything doesn't seem right. I know mechanicals are not your thing but there is really nothing in there to kill you, so long as the engine is cold, the fan wont come on. Get in there and have a good look around with a torch.

There is a guy in Sleaford who does fantastic work, look him up if you're on face geek. Inspire Automotive.

If the fans are free to spin, then just get used to the most power draining fans fitted to any car of its type!

Wait for the car to be cool, you'll have no worry of the fans activating then. Turn the fans and if there is any notchy or heavy resistance, get them changed. If you don't want to touch them, use a bit of wood!

Nope, it's quite a big fan but shouldn't make the car shudder! When it's cooled down, turn the fan by hand, if it feels notchy, replace it asap! Believe me when I say you should replace it if it feels rough or notchy, the fan motors are so large that when they seize, you'll have a fire waiting to happen. Ask me how I know, in fact you can ask Mic_VR aswell, he was there!

My thread is in my signature Wayne. The springs look large but are about 2 inches long. They just make the hand brake a bit tougher to apply. The worst thing with them is that they are a bit of a pig to fit!

Squealing brakes can occur if you have non oe pads with the square edges. Modern pads are chamferred so that the noise goes away. Older square edge pads don't struggle with noise if they are decent quality. If you have OE pads, OE discs and the rubber backing and it still squeals, then I'd say that the caliper pistons are sticking either through corrosion or on the rear wheels through the hand brake cables or mechanism being faulty. I don't use copper grease and haven't for years. The rubber backing is designed to eliminate the noise, adding copper grease won't do any harm but is not needed on modern pads. On the mk4 rears, you can get special little springs for little money that holds the hand brake mechanism open under tension when the handbrake is off. Look in my thread for pictures.