Sean_Jaymo

And rattles like 400k!

I agree, research the options, plenty out there but if the car is in good nick and has low mileage, if you're doing this for a few extra horses on top of what you already have, it's a lot of work for not a lot of results.

24v conversion in either 3.2 or 2.8 guise. You can transfer everything except the chip. Not much more power but much better driveability.

What's the budget?

Nothing is plug and play unfortunately.

90k is nothing for these engines, leave it in there.

Still chugging on!

It should have 5v fed into the remote line if I'm not mistaken so maybe measure the radio output and go from there? Does the radio have an option to turn on/off the remote line? I know mine does.

See how it rides and goes around corners and the tyres wear and you'll be good to go. Pressures can vary between the same sized tyres depending on things like side wall strength. So unless you are on original spec tyres then chances are you will need a slight tweet to be right.

That's what I stick in my 16's. You just need to keep an eye on tread wear and adjust accordingly.

No but it's a damn good indication. You'd only be a psi or 2 away from what you should be aiming for.

Do you have the sticker in the door or the fuel cap?

That's spot on mate but even if you are doing 250 miles per quarter is still the top end of usage. The cylinder wall thickness isn't the issue, it's valve stems normally if it's on the overrun or start up. Could be piston rings but not normally on vr6 lumps. Maybe you have a leak? Anything under the car? Classic places on these engines are the oil sensors on the oil filter housing or the rocker cover gasket. You should be able to drive the nuts off it when the oil is warm and not use hardly anything. I like the longer aerial myself :-)

Oh and 1 litre per 1000 miles seems to be the accepted limit of oil use.

Hopefully you've just done something strange and the oil is OK.

Top it up to the max mark and keep an eye on it for another week and see what is what in case you've just done something weird by mistake? I know it sounds a bit cheeky but you did get the district all the way in for the second check? I normally pull out, wipe clean, stick it back and check for the level again. (oooohh eeerrr)

The difference between the high and low level on the dip stick is a litre so for you to have gone through a quarter litre in 100 miles is quite bad. Unless of course the car was parked nose up for the second reading. Ideally check when cold in the same spot for consistency.

I can't say I've driven all vw 6 speeds but first being very short and second quite long seems to be a vw 6 speed trait from the ones I have driven, petrol and diesel.

It will all be much of a muchness. They are bound to have a longer final or 6th for emissions but everything else will be pretty similar.

I heard an 02S box would bolt straight in with very few mods?

TPS told me a while back that they had all gone?

East Midlands work?

If it had 5 stud wheels it was a late car if not it was early. All G60's are early. There was a tiny overlap where the very first VR6 cars had early interiors and late bodies and running gear.

Are TT seats bucket or sprung based?

All corrados had the 5 spoke speedlines apart from the storm versions which had the 6 spoke solitudes. This is as standard but I think there were a few other options so but couldn't tell you of the top of my head. The standard speedlines are great wheels, strong and light but brake size limit is 288mm.