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Sean_Jaymo

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Everything posted by Sean_Jaymo

  1. These look just so right in silver!
  2. You can get the headlight loom upgrade now that has proper plugs on so it's just a case of plugging the new loom in. There is only 1 foglight on the rear of the Corrado.
  3. I think it's about 150kg with all of the intercooler gubbins thrown in and I think the VR6 lump is somewhere around 175kg.
  4. I'd agree, really no need for different speeds, they are so quiets and efficient when compared to OE stuff that all fitting resistors does is increase heat in the wiring loom! I've got one 11" fan and it can handle the cooling on it's own no problem.
  5. B12's are good but you won't find any kits that drop 30 or 40 mm will give OE levels of ride comfort. I've just swapped my standard setup for B12's and they are noticeably firmer but nowhere near like coilovers.
  6. I got mine from C and R for about £65 for the set. No prices online currently but try calling them, Click
  7. Very nice! I'm not jealous at all!
  8. It does provide a proper function, just not in the form of down force.
  9. I wouldn't pay too much attention to that, it's for American cars. If you have 93 or later car it's a vr6. Otherwise if you have a 92 VR6 with the early interior it's the g60 mentioned. There are very few vr6's with the early interior, I used to have one and only knew of a handful of other ones. That link talks about the cars spoiler providing down force. It doesn't, not even a little bit. It's designed to reduce lift which is the opposite of providing down force. 70mph in pretty much any production car is too slow for any kind of aero down force to be achieved.
  10. That's why I recommend using a vacuum bleeder, it extracts air and doesn't force air out using air.
  11. I saw a few of these at silverstone earlier today and did feel a small tinge of jealousy! I would have thought a 4.0 v8 would have made more than 231 brake though?
  12. Best place to get a new tower is from a scrap yard. Cost me a fiver and took 5 minutes to remove!
  13. Sorry I should have explained it a bit better. If there is excess oil in the intake and throttle body, then you are getting a large amount of excess oil coming from the crank case ventilation system. Normally caused by having too much oil in the engine or combustion gases blowing past the piston rings causing the crank case to over pressurise, If the intake and throttle body are clean apart from a little bit of residue, then you are more than likely getting oil drawn into the combustion chamber via the valve guides or possibly the piston rings. Either way, look at the intake as a starting point, then as said above, fill and monitor. You shouldn't go through more than half a litre per 1000 miles if memory serves. It's true about the cat giving out excess moisture but if it is still doing it 20 odd miles into a journey, then I'd suggest that it's not the cat.
  14. That boost valve is doing nothing, it's all placebo. Blue smoke is burnt oil, caused by oil getting into the combustion chamber. On VR engines it's normally valve guides although piston rings can give the same faults. Either that or you have oil getting into the intake some how. Whip the intake off at the throttle and see what it looks like. If there is a load of oil there, then it's not likely to be anything too bad, but if it's only a bit of residue, you have something more sinister happening inside the engine.
  15. You do get a spongier pedal when you go for the 288's as the pad is so much larger. Braided lines and a vacuum bleed will do some good here. I personally don't like pressure bleeders myself, they are a bit pants and I don't like the idea of forcing air into a fluid that is hydroscopic. The Teves20 system isn't much better to bleed!
  16. You don't get a modern feeling rock solid pedal by moving to the Teves system. Don't get me wrong it feels OK but it's not like a modern system. You need to fit a larger master cylinder for the solid feel but then you'd be loosing brake power which means you'd need to fit a bigger sevo which is what they do in modern cars for the stronger brakes. Again, don't get me wrong, The Teves 20 system (having had it for a year and 7k) is so much better than the standard system under heavy breaking but it's not a modern feeling pedal by any stretch of the imagination, it is still quite long in the travel and a bit soft in the feel. But then ultimately, Teves 20 with 288 calipers is what came standard on late mk3 golf's so that's the year of brake feel you get. Teves 20 abs pumps are self bleeding to a point, you get 90% out with normal bleeding and given a bit of time, the rest of the air is worked out via some sort of magic and the pedal firms up a bit more. If you have access to the kit and the inclination to fit it, I whole heartedly recommend it but don't do it under the pretense that it's a modern system. If you don't have the kit or want to fit it, a vacuum bleed of the brakes can work wonders for the feel! I know Sean would have bleed them before selling to you and I don't doubt his ability at all but the brakes can be a bit of a pig to get 100% free of air. Where are you anyway? You're more than welcome to give mine a drive at a meet or whatever?
  17. Yeah date dependant but probably not until the tail end of June.
  18. I don't know if all that information is particularly relevant to the Corrado though in how it works. He mentions steering angle and there is no known steering angle that the abs system uses. I know it's all particularly irrelevant anyway. Fact is its should be there on corrados, if it isn't, somebody has been swapping parts around!
  19. Why would you want to do that? It's a smaller throttle and won't work with the ecu. If you want to go stand alone management, look into the alfa throttle bodies but you do need a custom mount and so far as I am aware they are not off the shelf due to the tiny volumes of people going this route. If you're doing it to avoid fitting drive by wire, it's kind of like biting off your nose to spite your face.
  20. Quite a trick at altitude and speed.
  21. Why is it going as high as 110 then? 92ish is normal traffic?
  22. When the fan kicks in at 110, that's the black temp switch on the engine cooling manifold doing it's job. There is a radiator switch on the radiator near the battery which should cause the fans to kick in at 92 or so and 98 or so. My suspicion is that this switch is gone or possibly not plugged in. It costs about 12 or 15 quid from vw heritage for a new one. I'd suggest that if you are going to break into the coolant system, you also replace the yellow coolant switch on the engine as that may be giving you false readings. They are a similar price as the radiator switch.
  23. Is it as high as 25mph? I thought it was 12kmh? It's not a launch assist type system, it's more a help to pull away on snow and sand system.
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