Sean_Jaymo

You can clean them up with electrical contact cleaner for potential short term fix.

The 5 stud stuff is widetrack so there are longer wishbones, anti roll bar and driveshafts and the wings are wider to accomodate the extra width. Ball Joints are not interchangeable either nor are drop links I beleive.

For anyone asking this in the future, plus axle is 5 stud and basic suspension is 4 stud. Basic setup is the same apart from track width.

I used them as well. Very good.

The forum should be named; THE Corrado Forum. Incest is Best!

I agree with SwiftKid. They are obsolete now but this thread comes up a dozen or so times a month. Have a quick look back through the recent threads and you'll find the answer on how somebody solved their problems...

What was the problem?

Unplug it with the engine running, if it's OK the engine will run like a bag of nails. If no change, then it's likely dead. What are your symptoms?

Vcds logging will tell you.

That typhoon practices 3 times a day over my house in the spring. That gets annoying but watching it in a setting like Goodwood some how makes it all better!

That's it. Can be very tight.

Just back from an epic 2 dry days there, I really feel the need for a big powered rwd car for some reason!

When the gauge gets low, open the tank and have a look how much is actually in there. You can bend the float are to make it more accurate. That's 2 faults from 2 that we've managed to fix cheaply first time! Hopefully you have no more faults.

Winner!

If it's getting worse, my bets are definitely on the sensor as the wiring degrades further.

Crank sensors won't always show a fault code if they cut very momentarily. I got a new crank sensor for £37 from my local motor factor.

I've not got specific resistor value from memory fla, ill try and post them up later for you. Bridge all 3 feeds incase the radiator switch fails completely in which case you'll have no fan control.

My LUK clutch hasn't given me any issues at all, just the noise bearing. Did I get lucky?

Not quite, the three power feeds to the original fans are all 12v switched lives, the cables are just different thicknesses to allow for the huge current the original fan can draw. A slimline will draw no more than 10amps so you can use a thinner wire. I stripped the insulation wrapping back to the battery area, cut all three wires for the old fans and combined them there and ran a single wire from the combined wires to the plug on the fan. For the fan itself, I took the plastic plug off which left me with 2 spade connectors. I then fitted spade connectors to my single power feed and earth and then then shrink wrapped over them for insulation and a bit more security and went from there. If I were to do it again, I would add a resistor to the stage 1 feed before where I combined the wires so that I still had 2 stages. It's not normally needed but I want to add air con in the future and don't want to have my fans going max chat just because I turned my aircon on!

That's the puppy! From memory, the plug is attached to the dipstick guide on a bracket.

Yeah it's Jim. The forum search is poor and won't return any results unless your search is 4 or more letters. Useful if your looking for VR6 or G60 specific stuff... If you want to search use the Google site search feature.

I've got a luk item from GSF. Works well but the release bearing is quite rattley. I would take it apart, complain and go from there but removing a gearbox is quite a pain! Unless it gets worse or fails, ill be just putting up with it.

I'm sure Kev will tell you how much fun it is to get a mix and match mk4/5 setup working correctly. Send him a pm and ask his advice. He is after all a bit of a tech guru on here!

I think this kit is based on the revotec fans. I got mine from Burton power. Have a quick Google. 11 inch suck fan.

They are only held in by 1 screw but it is on the front of the block below the oil cooler so access is poor. I personally find it easier to jack the car up and put it on stands then go in from underneath. Normally the sensor itself is OK, it's the wiring that fails as it's in a pretty hostile place. Best to put a complete new assembly in and have done with it. Have a search for crank sensor vr6 on Google and see what pictures come up to help. Just dying as if you switched the ignition off is a clear symptom of a duff sensor. Other thing that can cause this are bad ecu (number 30) or fuel relays (number 67 or 167)