VR6Joni

I hate them too! I do think they will cause accidents, my girlfriend even agrees that Xenon lights are too bright and admits to closing her eyes to oncoming Xenons! She doesn't drive thankfully, but clearly shows that they cause discomfort.

Glad to hear you got this up and running, so what did you end up doing as a MAF solution? And do you know what boost your hitting?

I've fixed this problem twice now, as Kev said above, its a leak on your injector rail. One of several things can cause it: fuel hose to rail connection, injector seals or the injectors them selves. As mentioned many times before, when the car is stopped the fuel in the rail expands/boils with the engine latent heat, when it cools back down the fuel contracts again drawing in air, if you have a leak path its a matter of finding it. I suspect most problems are leaking injectors or you would see/smell signs of the leak when the engine is running, its probably also a reason fuel pumps only run continuously when the engine is running. I'd go this order: 1)Reseat fuel hoses onto rail, cut a few mm off to be sure of good reseal. 2)Injector seal replacement (cheap o-rings), this is a ball ache by the way because if the injectors have not been removed before they will be stuck solid. Clean the rail injector seating very well! 3)Refurb (ultrasonic bath clean) / replace injectors.

My 2p. Bigger, fatter disks wear less and stay cooler as has been explained multiple times earlier. Because of this large disks are less stressed, therefore the braking surface stay's smoother and disk warping is minimised. Therefore the brake pad can apply a more constant braking force throughout a whole revolution of the wheel, thus preventing skidding and the ABS kicking in. Add to this 4 pot callipers which allow the pad to follow the face of the disk even better and you have a significant improvement in braking. I have tried 280mm performance disks and pads, they still gave poor brake progression and faded after a few roundabouts on some local bypass's. I then upgraded to 312mm disks and pads (mediocre spec), pedal feel improved slightly and fade was quite difficult to induce. Then onwards to 4 pots with 312mm performance disks and mediocre pads, pedal feel and brake progression was vastly improved over the 280mm setup and once again fade was very difficult to induce. So to sum it up brand new 280mm V's 312mm will probably not see a reduction in braking distance, but pedal feel is better so with some driver skill an improvement is possible. But with used real world disks, 312mm will have a small reduction in braking distance due to disk face remaining more true (flat) there giving more uniform braking effort through out the disk revolution. Add 4 pots and the improvement will be even greater. And if you want to spend even more, add floating rotors for another improvement in performance. Therefore in the real world which we live in, bigger brakes are better! fact!

Just for any DIY'ers out there, this little box can get your camber pretty much spot on. Reset on the bonnet (on a relatively flat surface), check current camber and note it down. Then correct it by sticking it to the brake disc, resetting and adjusting by the initial error. My local ATS do it with the wheel on, err not easy! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Leather-Batteries/dp/B001YJ8F8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346327196&sr=8-1

Saw it in Locke park on Sunday, good job with the paint. Fancy polishing mine next?

Probs more to do with tracking the tyre wear, so get that done also, camber affects steering response and stability more from my experience. Adjusting ride hight adjusts camber and tracking so just get them both done. I found -1° camber and 0° toe drove real nice.

I went down almost the same route as you about a year ago, ended up rebuilding the head as several valve guides were worn. I swear the smoke stopped but its back with vengeance now. If I were to do it again, I'd just replace the engine for same cost with little extra work, making sure of course its a good block. I'd see what the compression test indicates first though.

I think my problem is unique because the sleeve has a head on it, the head is still on the underside of the subframe, effectively pinning the bush to the subframe. I've had to go out and buy a selection of chisels to wedge out the pin either from the bottom or lifting the bush from the subframe slightly to loosen it. Anyway we'll see how that goes this weekend.

I read that also, but the problem is most defitately because the sleeve is basically attaching the bush to the subframe. Any more ideas please

Tried brute force mate, the sleeve has to come out, trust me. Will try a big wedge type chisel between bush and subframe tonight to lift bush a bit. Any other suggestions welcome.

Yep, they are poly bushes though so not standard. I just can't think a way to pull the bloody thing out whilst they are stuck in car.

Just on with replacing front wishbone bushes, the sleeve that goes through the rear bush is stuck solid holding in the wishbone. Any smart idea's how to remove it? bearing in mind the wishbone is stuck on the car due to the sleeve locating it into the subframe. This is really winding me up now, please help. BTW the old bushes are poly bushes, but I have movement in them now so its knocking.

Is this still for sale?

I'll have the near side wing, from what I can see its still available.

The neighbours are really quite generally and I never had a problem with them, thing is I don't think they will get across my point of how disrespectful it is to litter your boyfriends neighbours garden with fag ends. Hence why I think she needs a real dressing down.

I though throwing the cigs butts back over (10+ at a time) would be a subtle enough hint for them to have a word, it seems not. Now its time to address the root cause in my opinion.

First of all, its not actually my neighbour, its their sons girlfriend. She keep throwing cig butts in my garden and it's winding me up, what kind of person (scum bag) does this. On several occasions I've picked them back up and slung them back over the fence, to no avail, the cig butt dumping persists. My plan is to collar her (go straight to the root of the problem) and give her the dressing down of her life, so she feels like crawling back into the hole she came from and never coming out again, and quite frankly tears would be a bonus. I'm gonna start with "do you throw cig butts in the neighbours garden at home? Its filthy, anti social, uncivilised" I'm out of ideas after that. I feel I'm missing something in which I need to say. Suggestions please?

The MAF clamps are just zener diodes from maplin etc.. You really should have a resistor in line also to prevent a direct short on the output of the MAF. This method is dangerous in my eyes as it can lead to under fuelling. You really are better off with the Pot trick and new injectors. I'll draw you a diagram if you like of how to fit the Pot. This still leaves the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) mapping to be dealt with though, your rising rate regulator may well work a treat for this, but I suspect you'll still end up getting a remap as ignition timing really need adjusting to make the most of the boost. I have an 85mm pulley so I bet your boost curve is very similar to mine, if you want a chip to get you up and running I could send you a copy of mine if you want, however you still need a socketed ECU for this.

Oh, sorry thought I read you had C30-94 earlier! So it probably will be more like 10psi. How big is the pulley on the charger? Just make sure they are the Red top injectors, preferably with confirmation that they are the same number as the ones in the link above. The 10K pot trick is just with a potentiometer and gives you a fraction of the output of the MAF so injector on time is reduced, but if you have larger injectors the same amount of fuel is delivered providing you have adjusted the ratio correctly, I had about 0.7V out per 1V in from the pot. General consensus is around 300bhp before cooling is required. At full throttle I did NOT have MAF issues as it is ignored by the ECU, however I did see it on part throttle. If I were you I'd keep a very close eye on this issue and would be highly tempted to get an AFR gauge. I think it will be fuel related unless your ECU operates differently to mine. Yeah be careful of lean running as that will melt a piston.

Thought I'd post on here instead of FI VR6 thread. My advice would be, get some Saab Red 350cc injectors (can get some bargains from ebay) eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Saab-9000-Fuel-Injectors-/180893913879?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1e1e1317 I have the 30-94 charger with these injectors. You can then do the MAF 10K pot trick, works a treat, this will give you good idle and part throttle running. This can be done by ear / VAGCOM but I would highly recommend an AFR gauge or some kind of exhaust gas analysis (MOT station). Also you will be getting 14psi from this charger, some form of cooling is highly recommended, aquamist worked for me before I went charge cooler.(sorry for extra expense downer) I think I have a MAP for this setup somewhere on my laptop. Also on full throttle the MAF is ignored (well it is on my ECU because I tried it, part throttle it cuts out at 4Kish but goes all the way to redline full throttle), I suspect that you have a serious fuelling issue if its cutting out on WOT, so be very careful.

Hi mate, up and running yet? Not been able to get on here for a while, been on holiday :) Your right, the MAF will measure the dumped air which will be translated into large amounts of fuel for the engine causing it to run/not run massively rich. And may even hit the MAF limit, which causes fuel to be stopped all together. My concern was more to do with the recirc valve opening under cruise though, say 70 in 5th, my recirc valve is open at this point, which would mean over fueling, I'm not sure if it would run but can guarantee MPG would be pants. Lambda correction may help but I suspect it would hit its adjustment limit. I also find that the recirc valve is open under ldle which will also cause problems.

I can't be 100% sure with your rrfpr, but most fuel regs come after the rail regulating fuel pressure between pump and reg, the output is just excess which goes to the tank return. Manifold vacuum links up the same as the stock regulator. Is the stock rail regulator being removed or is it staying. rrfpr will come after if it is staying and both will still need manifold vacuum via a T. You'll have big problems if the recirc vents to atmosphere as they vent on cruise with chargers so you'll get massive over fuelling and shifting up will probs through you through windscreen. Removing altogether is a preferred solution but you'll need very robust boost pipe work due to boost spikes as I mentioned earlier. In my opinion it much easier just to pursue piping up the recirc valve correctly.

These still for sale mate? Need a set quick while my koni's are rebuilt.

Yep, the isv does regulate the idle revs. Stick a pic up of what you have, I'll be able to tell you if your missing anything. Pipe lengths don't matter as long as they physically fit.