andycowuk

the mk2 is faster than the c, the golf wouldnt of looked so stoooopid. This was a black one........didnt see the model (tears were filling my eyes)

Hi As above, I was burnt off by a poxy ford 4x4, I think it was an F150 (I think the 150 is tonnes - it was HUGE) only on a little second gear burst in town, but I am certain on the open road he would of made me look a fool! I am only keeping myself happy, safe in the knowledge he gets worse fuel consuption than me.

no no, not sarcasm, I thought you were asking one of those profound questions, like what is the meaning of life? or what is fate? ....... Why am I runing XP? ....it fits in ok!!

do any of us? or was there supposed to be a comma there? :lol: sorry, that was no help! :roll:

I actually think that the g60 box isnt long enough for a modified 8v g60 engine, rule it out completely for the 16v g60. The 8v may have lower peak torque than the 16v, but I think it is more constant/sustained through the range, so the longer ratios exploit this. The 16v will have a steeper power curve, perhaps you should look at re-housing the mk2 16v ratios in an 02a or later case, and increasing the final drive. This will keep the gears nice and close to keep the engine in its power band, but not be too short to run out too quick.

Hi Just thought I would mension this incase it causes anyone else bother:- The part of the wiper mech that goes to onto the motor (the bar with the two plastic eyes) wore out on my car, so it kept popping off when the wipers change direction. Sinse it was raining/snowing I wasnt able to go anywhere without it - the car might as well of broken down!!! You guys might want to check yours before the same happens leaving you stranded (tho probably not in as remote a place as I was)!!

could be possible prob with bearing, everything else is new tho. Not the mudflap, it is rubbing at appx 2 or 3 o'clock position

cant think why its happening.

mine started coming on today, turned off engine, started again, all ok, drove around, it came back on, turned engine off, started, used abs...all fine, then came on a minute or two later. I then reset it again and went up to silly speed out of town, and it stayed off, drove around town, on again. there is no fixed time or speed to trigger the prob. what a pest.

running standard bbs rims, and is actually not that lowered, still at least an inch between wheel and arch (but cant see my car at the moment due to the horizontal snow flying past the window)

Hi I seem to have a problem with the front right wheel scuffing on the inner arch, it was scuffing on the plastic onfront of the wheel and the metal work on near full left lock. I loosened the 3 ball jopint bolts and pulled it towards me which has iliminated the scuffing on the metal I think, but even now sinse I have had the alignment & camber done, the wheel still rubs on the plastic inner arch that is onfron tof the leading edge of the wheel. It is as if the wheel is too far forward. I cant think of any way to adjust this - any one had/resolved this problem? Cheers

I'll take a pic of it after x-mas (i'm going up north tomorrow untill 28th). The four contacts inside the cap are two top and two bottom (as it sits on the distributer) the bottom two are almost gone, the top two are fine! Really strange.

I dont know bout n e 1 else, but on all of the uprated suspension sets I have put on cars, I usually dont put on bump stops - even when I went flying in my mk2, it didnt bottom out.

The car has a 16v MC and servo, but on the rocco, the MC is too close to the bonnet for the 16v resivoir, so there is some vulva resivoir there instead - it is more flat, so gives less room. There is no way a standard cap would go on. The pug one will hopefully do the trick! Will need to find out why the rotor was hitting the cap 1st!

I had to get towed home tonight in by a ford... :shock: :oops: how bad is that, hmmmmmm those tastey words of mine! :oops: Anyway...the 16v engine is actually in the scirroco, but sinse u guys will prob be more familiar with the mk1, I put that in the title! I found today, that the rotor arm has been rubbing away at the contacts in the cap, and as of 2.40pm today, there was not enough of two of them for the car to run! Those of you (Henny?) who have put a 16v in a mk1 will have encountered the prob of the rotar and the brake servo/master cylinder - know what i mean? Sinse I never put it there, I dont know what to replace it with. Do you know?

A faulty HAL sender (in the distributer) can give this symtom, although the bit you describe does sound kindda suspect. there is no such part on the 1.8 AFAIR. Sorry to be so vauge.

looks a bit lupo ish in the thumbnails!!!

it has got electronic injectors, I dont see an ISV or any of that sort of S**te either so has probably changed to stand alone management.

Green 16v at Asda chesser tonight K300 ASK. Grey VR6 just off Roseburn Terrace this morning,

i think i am right in saying this but etc etc... The kits you guys are all running control the compression and rebound by the same 'valve', at best on the t/a the compression is changed but the rebound is fixed. The problem is that in order to get a good rebound dampening the compression dampening has to be very stiff in the first place. thus the bumpy ride. it is not much to do with the spring until you are concidering super hard ones in coilover kits. feel free to correct me if im wrong....(like you need an invitation!!!)

just got genuine g60 ones for £28ea +vat

really that is the only cure.

the cure is to fit a proper amplifier.....the head unit wont have the guts to run the components.

well?

Well guys....remember........ Its for sale!!!