andycowuk

my last golf passed MOT with seized rear wiper.

dont think the rear washer is needed for mot

from what I here of your car, you dont need to worry......u have ages before you hit 40k miles! :lol: What milage u at just now? anything make u think u need a rebuild?

IIRC, there are two bolts at one end and a bush at the other end of the rack, check the condition of the bushes, and that the bolts are tight.............i think there was a 'tightening' mech. on the non-p/s racks on golfs. Obviosly check the items Supercharged has mensioned too.

lol.....The week before the scottish rr day at star, in about -5 deg at midnight, I was wearing about 15 layers of clothes in a lockup, while it was snowing really heavy outstide, I was replacing the lines that go from the rear beam to the bias adjuster. I was a total pig to do in the dark.....took for ever.......and as for flaring the hose - it was near impossible. :mad: I was glad to get that job done 8)

u can get the solid break lines and the union nuts from dealer. they are not overly priced. You will also need some little spring clips. The golf front flexis are too short, you will need a corrado kit. The seat on the goodridge hose kit was wrong too. I got my flaring set from machine mart. When you take the old pipe off, try not to bend it, then you have a guide to shape the new one. I also recoment having a heat gun or small blowtourch, just to heat up the end of the pipe prior to flairing, makes it a bit easier.

The solid hoses on the c (at least mine anyway) were copper, and there are 8 of them, abs unit to front flexi, abs unit to bias adjuster, bias adjuster to beam, beam to caliper x2 The new stuff you are talking about is much harder than the steel or copper ones, and is a bugger to flare and bend. The ends from vw are £2 each, but seem to be a harder metal than cheap ones from the motor factor.

What about the more generously preportioned or even athletic girls? i recomend u get your brake lines from Pitstop performance....the ones steve gets made up are better quality than the more expensive goodridge ones IMHO. There are 3 bolts in the bottom ball joint......is this the source of your excessive play? or did the tester specify the joint was worn out? Where the b/j goes into the hub there is a bolt and nut that go perpendicular to the ball joint, you need undo the nut, slide the bolt out, and then as Mr Haynes would say...it just eases out of the hub. The flexi hoses are not so easy....specially the left rear one...iIt is a total pig to get into. If the union nut comes away from the old flexy nicely, then u are laughing, What I sometimes do if the union nut is in bad shape, is cut the flexi in half, so you can rotate the flexi rather than the union nut which often bonds itself to the copper. Once the flexi is out the way, u can work on freeing the union nut from the copper more easily. Enjoy (as I have been doing other stuff at the same time as writting this, I bet some one else like Henny or Kevhaywire have updated the post, you have done the work and had your car mot'd) ** Edit - I was first!

i will take a pic for you tomorow. i think the bracket you are talking about is to hold the fpr, or is it the rocker to manifold foolishness? Think is probably best to keep that. The two gaskets for the throtte body are: 037133073A 037133074 Dont know which is which, but i recon u will need both.

IIRC blown has a g60 just recently put mine back together, so its still fresh in my mind! there is a gasket between the two halves of the throttle boddy and one between the t/b and the manifld. The head bolts get done in teh same way as the 8v gti. For some reason that order didnt look righ to me ... it is!....lol :oops: allow me to space it out so it looks clearer (purely for my benift!) 10...............4............2.............6................8 7.................5............1.............3................9 oh god i remember that feeling when I got mine back.

i have a supersprint one. 'sgood Dont know how it compairs to the next manifold tho - sept that supersprint items are widely known to have an excelent fit.

I thought thats what gay french cars had.

I dont have any good pics of my c yet.....but I have some of my golf, just before I sold it. Can seem to find the bigger versions just now!

But you can use the crank pulley to find out roughly wich mark on the flywheel is correct.

I've only ever heard the vw diff go, never the gearbox. The diff starts to make a metro or mini type sound! - if u have had it, u know what I mean. Are u sure it is the front, the bearings are a low drone noise that resonates in the car....can make it sound like its from another area of the car. What are the sympoms of your noise? Louder on left or right turns, or under breaking?

Isnt that the benefit as a result of the baffles, 'holding' the oil at the oilpump pickup; what function does the windage tray perform?

I was wondering about how much difference, or how much benifit is to be had from the windage tray.... it will stop the crank shaft from slapping the oil on corners etc, but it this really only going to be an issue on the track with sticky stuff or could we all benifit from it? http://www.bahnbrenner.com/acatalog/G60_Oil_Pan.html I am trying to find supliers just now, that are not bbm cos they suck on postage.... is anyone else interested in one? maybe a small group buy?

Was looking at getting something from bahn brenner...went to the shopping cart....put in my location details....went to pay.....and they had lumped on $135 for P&P :shock: :shock: :cry: :cry: Anyone else got stuff from them? can you get cheaper postage? Any suggestions?

hot water bottle? :lol: :lol: Sorry...could not resist. Fuse? I am not sure what sort of loom goes into the seat? 2 or 3 lines? Check for 12v going in...and continuty in the heater element (there wil be a high resistance tho) Check earth is good if there is one.

i was in pricing exactly the same thing at my local dealer.....he gave me the same price, except the connectors are around a £1 each x2. What symptoms do you have that make you think you need a new one? I am changing all of these things in prep for my change to stand alone engine management. Can you here pinking? or is it just tattie?

mine has one tourch key its early 92

try replacing the cables....could be moisture in there thats causing this. HTH

is this for road or track use? the current items are more than capable of locking the back wheels with any road tyre if u have your bias adjuster disconnected! Why not use a variable bias adjuster to see if you can improve the current setup. With more stopping power up front, the back wheels will be even more prone to locking up (unless u are doing silly speeds or u have sticky track tyres)

rally cars use a hydrolic handbrak mech, there is no reason that you could not use a hydrolic lever, although it would need a ratchet (which rally cars dont have) - I cant think how/if a 'normal' handbrake is used. I guess that you would need a few one way valves to stop the handbrake acting on the front calips/mastercylinder, and also to stop the foot break acting on the handbrake cyl. I guess you would need some bracketry made up to hold the rear caliper. I have know idea how this would all come together in practice, in terms of byasing etc....those would be pretty big back grakes, that will never get used any where near to the max

I got my exhaust from Motor Sport World In Strathaven They gave me a good service + I think they have started to do a fitting service too. HTH