andycowuk

VW Motorsport used the ABF....sinse they go to the effort in the gearbox.....why would they not use a different bottom end if it was weak?

I have to ask the question.......why are you dead set on a 9a?

when i was looking....one j plate red g60 had grey interior.......the j plate red g60 i bought has a black interior. Any cars get black headlining?

vag dont offer any form of garantee unless u change the tensioner at the same time........... I very much doubt however that if you turn up in the parts dept with a snapped belt, a new tensioner and an reciept and ask for a new engine, that they will say 'certainly sir' :cry: :( :mad: :evil:

the pre-load in the front ones will be set higher.....cos the vr6 is fatter....if you are sending them away to be reconditioned.....you can ask to have preload reset differently at no extra cost I think (they have to reset it in a recon anyway)

£50 delivered. It is a bolt in job......but you need to take cam cover off...and undo the cam shells in the correct order. I am also selling the ABF engine.....would like to sell it complete...but i wont mind splitting it.....£500 complete.....£450 for just the bottom end......it has kr cams in it just now....btw Karmann...its in edinburgh...so not to far to transport....you can see it running too just now.....its still in the drivable golf....

Not exactly correct........ the ABF is the golf engine, and the 9A is the corrado engine. They both have the same stroke and bore, except the block is 15mm taller on the ABF.....as are the con rods a bit longer......this gives better torque throughout the range. Some dont like the ABF because of the longer con rods...they are theoretically weaker and probably heavier than the shorter 9a ones. But for naturally asperated applications i cant see a problem. I had a ABF in the golf, with KR cams and a magnex system. Never had it on the RR to give figures but, the power delivery throughout the range was much better and with a slightly more powerful peak.......I towed another car up quite a steep hill in 2nd with the engine idling....try to do that with the 1.8! Basically Karmann the 1.8 is not highly tunable due to the engine management.....u could change it for around £600 yourself using emerald for example, then you can start with induction kits cams etc..... As it is just now.....you can do the exhaust, panel filter, and put on a piggyback chip, as mentioned above....but i dont think many will get more than 150-155 out of the 1.8 on its standard management....thats what the ABF puts out standard. By the way...the 9a, the abf and the kr (and the 6a form audi 80s and probably others too) can all be switched around! the heads and most of the ancilaries are the same.....there are differences between the inletmanifolds....due to the different management systems.....sinse you are going to be putting this new engine in....i would concider a different one before you commit to it! Phil K, I can get you a set of KR cams...the 9a and abf cams are milder than the kr ones so you will see a difference......not sure how much on the 9a...maybe some could enlightlen us there!......if you want a price let me know. hth

ahh...right.....erm no.....I cant machine them....Ive got 2 pairs of KR cams lying around!

Sorry.. spose it would have been more helpful if I had made that more clear! ......Or I could sort you out with one.....let me know

you cant do much to the kr engine, unless u are getting it chipped....the management doesnt like it at all, it'l run like a pile'o'sh1t3 the head doesnt need flowed untill u come to extreme mods, it breathes really well as it is. The easiest mod to the 2l 16v would be to bung in the KR inlet cams. the exhaust ones dont make too much difference. The best mod for a kr bottom end is to replace it with an ABF one!

what are the imfamous ignition switch problem symptoms?

he got good value for money then!

i was thinking of cutting the boost return pipe, pointing it down towards the side of the rad, and putting a cone filter on it. Does anyone have a replacement part of the stupid plastic pipe between the air box and charger?

I just phoned the supplier, and they are willing to take my parts back and give me correct ones.......That is excellent service I think, sinse I bought the system at the start of September last year.....and have had it on the car of 6 weeks! The supplier isMotorsport World in Lanarkshire. Anyway....incase you want to go for it....this is what it looks like on.... If you have the late hangers, like me, you will need to get supersprints VR6 centre box and rear box.

mine was put on at the start of december 2003, so only 6 weeks on.. .therefore excellent condition. Will get u a pic of it on my car for you, but this is it from the supersprint site. I need to find out that they make a back box with the late type hangers......also mine is J too, but its a 92 j. If yours is a 91 J it will fit well.

i have realised that I have the wrong rear box for my car, I have the eary hanger type box. I am going to buy the correct one and sell the incorrect one.....would you be interested if the price was right? or do you have the late hangers too?

from the side, does the end of the magnex look like =i or like =/ ??? The supersprint one is slash version.....maybe i will go and clean my car specially for the pic.... The magnex sounds the dogs, but I found the one on the golf fitted like crap. Also it was not great build quality - mild steel flanges to join stainless steel manifold and system - duh - Had to take it all of so it could get new flanges welded on.

I've got the supersprint 6x4 oval, it is similar size to standard. Took a photo just now, but its too dirty for me to post!!

thats actually a really good point! I will look at the new one to see but I am certain you could be right about the severity of the wearing being an illusion. Obviously there is still a prob, which need repaired. well done - we were looking too far into this! You could have just explained the odd look!!

I dont thinks so.....if it were squint, then it would not wear slowly to that extent.....it would fowl and break

Right....photo of problem taken....this is kind relevant to all, sinse the same thing could happen to any 16v engine...... The only thing that still seems od, is that there is not play in the rotor shaft.

can someone check up a haynes manual for the ratios on the 16v mk2 golf?

I knew there were 2 shafts, just couldnt think...still too early...just up!

kev, do all of the cars shown in your pic come with those numbered dots as standard, or do you have to pay for them? Actually they probably just cover spots where the rust is already breaking through when they leave the showroom. THe car that burnt me of was a brittish regstered car but was LHD, and MEGA CHUNKY in that american way. Probably was a V8.....there is another similar thing....a big dodge pic up in Edinburgh, the one that has the same engine as the Viper.....8l v10 beast. It sounds amazing! Looks like a big jelly factory to drive.

I am going to ask a stupid question at this point........ The larger final drive, gives a lower overall gear ration, the larger the gear on the mainshaft, the larger the overall gear ration...... am I right? I am thinking of bicycles here.....small ring at front = small gear, larger gear at rear (final drive) = small gear there fore on a mod'd 8v g60, I actually want a smaller final drive? (and slightly closer ratios!!)