C488ADO

ive never been to a show with any of my cars so i might come along to this? is there anywhere where the guys from the west country can meet up with you folks up north?

not exactly great but looks fresher than it did, i would like to take this oppertunity to thank graham @ DG autotec from his help over the phone at a time of need !! very patient and very knowledable, thank you to evrybody on here that put thier 2p in all advice was is appreciated i have new leads from DG on the way

is it possible to open it up a little? i have driven it tonight and it really seems lively!! quite impressed if im honest as not knowing how a manual car behaves , going straight from auto to manual and adding the flywheel and pulleys it seems to go like fcuk! ??? things to not so far.:- fans cutting in and out at temperature 90 so this is good. fans cutting in and out when engine turned off so this is good. not checked aux water pump yet but will on monday. after i have run the car for a couple miles il vag com it again to see if there are any faults

lumpy running was down to air leaks me not connecting up the oil breather systme!! lol all vag com'd up and no faults!!! there were none before i started the conversion as i relpaced all the bit that did throw up faults ,lambda, speed sensor etc but all is good first noticable difference doesnt sound the same!! ?? doesnt rev the same feels somewhat resticted? is this possible? looking at the obd2 throttle body it looks weird has a funny angle to it can these be bored out successfully?

so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..

carried on from the top! the headlight ancillary loom plug it looks like this notice it hasnt got as many connections in it trace the wires back to the main part of the loom and snip them off, the brown wires earth and it goes right to the bottom of the loom snip them off neatly around there remove any associated plugs that go with it. get rid of these plugs and this plug oh yes you can get rid of these too get rid of this and this this this no need for this or this or this or this! and this can go! you should start to have a pile of wires that look a bit like this , dont worry ,this is going to get bigger! the golf loom should now resemble something like this after you have used the black insulating tape to give it some shape.. so both looms are on the floor next to each other the obd2 manifold in no doubt will be manky as hell and look rubbish, i took the oppertunity to do something about it a quick wire brush and they really come up quite nice , well respectable. i bought some vht metallic black spray from halfords.. £5.99 and sprayed the manifold the rocker and all the plastics i also painted the engine loom plug bracket as i had a spare just so it looks cleaner it gives quite a good finish. looks a bit neater than it did before..

Hello folks il try and make this as easy as possible bearing in mind this is a work in progress hey if it's any good it could be stickied in engine bay to make it easy to find? First up, the list , what do I need to convert to Obd2?? 1) obd2 engine bay loom 2) obd2 cabin to engine bay loom 3) obd2 maf 4) obd2 inlet manifold 5) obd2 throttle body 6) obd2 lambda sensor 7) obd2 Ecu Now if this is possible you also need.... But don't worry if it's not possible to get them 8) obd2 keys from donor car 9) obd2 transponder from donor car 10) obd2 immobiliser box If for what ever reason the parts 8,9,10 are not available because you haven't found a full car to get them from, or you are sourcing parts in stages from the forum then don't worry! The obd2 Ecu needs to have the immobiliser circuit deleted from it you can send this to either D&G Autotec or Stealth there are probably other suppliers but these are the two that stick in my mind. When the Ecu has had the immobiliser deleted you do not need parts 8,9,10 this in my experience makes life so so so much easier as sourcing bits can take a while. as a side note please have to hand as its handy loom tape or self amalgamating tape make sure the obd2 manifold has got the accelerator guide on it as mine hasnt :( sharp stanley knife of swan morton blades black insulating tape familiarise yourself with the loom it doesnt matter what does what i didnt have a clue you dont need a lot of it anyway , just make sure you know roughtly whats what. strip the golf loom tape off of the loom , yes this will make a mess do you best to try and keep it loom shape ish.... the golf loom disconnect the battery and remove from car!! next remove header tank as this makes it easier to get at the loom through the corners. i personally decided to take out the corrado loom from the car , so to do this you need to remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder dia phram round thingy in the engine bay this thing here (i know i knw the engine is out and its gonna be easier but honestly i did this conversion with the engine in this pic is just for reference and i didnt get much room to move about) inside the car drivers foor well remove shelves and get a lead light of some sort if you can remove the seat then do it you need to be comfortable when working on this and the less stress the better! there are 4x 13mm nuts just undo them around the brake pedal youl see where i mean, in this photo just above the brake pedal you can just see the nuts well maybe not! not a very good pic but you can just see the white round bit the nuts are situated around it in a square undo these... remove the clip from the brake pedal arm and slide out pin then the slave has to come out this is situated behind the clutch pedal again 2 x 13mm nuts undo them and remove the clip on the clutch pedal slide off black round connector from the pin and you can now go round to the engine bay and remove the slave and the master... you do not have to remove them completly, only just enough to make a gap so you can get at the loom entry through the bulk head. look at the above picture (this was taken from my car while undergoing to auto to manual conversion so no slave is present.) the blanking plate is there the three holes in a line. ok so what you need to do next is to take out the corrado loom unplug all ancillaries from engine (ones that you need to unplug) what do you mean what plugs do i have to remove? which ones?? engine bay loom is wrapped up in the siver foil heat protector at the back of the bulk head undo the releaseable cable ties and follow the loom un plug:- black plug located front engine mount white plug located front engine mount single pin blue wire plug located around starter motor single plug (moderate size) wire from starter motor round multi pin connector block from engine bay loom the ecu multi pin connector im pretty sure thats it?! ok the loom your after runs through the bulk head in the top hole. grabs the wires on theis loom and trace them back to the fuse panel remove all related plugs and multi plugs labelling them up if you want to might make it easier for you? to remove the plugs from the fuse board itsself you need to slide the black slider only goes one way on the board this releases all of the plugs, it is located in the middle of the fuse box and runs the entire length of it it has one end larger than the other, once all the relevant connectors are out you can gently pass the connecters through the bulk head . lay the loom out on the floor and strip it bare too.. why do we have to strip the corrado loom? it just makes it easier to follow and trace the wires back to either the ecu plug or the engine multi pin connector the corrado loom stripped use the black insulating tape to randomly tie the golf loom together in a few places mainly where the wires split off in to different directions. once stripped back get the golf loom and you will notice it has two big round multi pin connectors on it one is obviously engine harness attachment and the other is the golfs lighting ancillary loom ....ditch this cut it out get rid of it fcuk it off throw it away.... ok you got the idea

lol cheers guys yeah start stripping the loom would be a good idea esp as you can now see what needs to come out..... it will probably take about 30 mins to take the outer tape off then about another 30 mins to take out the wires you want? if you can get it looking like my loom finished before you put it in the car it would be so easy and you could finish the conversion on saturday. it would be just a case of plug and play..

just searched the pics and yeah your right ... ok so i need a manual ger surround with the karmann badge!lol cheers

ah ? i see i thought i saw ones with out the recess? so did the recaro interior come with the karman badge in it? if so i havent seen that either?

Interested depending on price and cam profile

GOD DMAN LOST MY TRIM!!! cant find it anywhere so i need another one and of course it had to be beige!!!!! WANTED SUNROOF TRIM BEIGE WANTED MANUAL GEAR SURROUND LEATHER GEARKNOB LEATHER GEAR GAITOR PLEASE NO MANUAL SURROUNDS THAT HAVE THE KARMANN BADGE IN AS I HAVE A RECARO INTERIOR I NEED THE SURROUND WITH OUT THE RECESS FOR A BADGE THANK YOU NOT FUSSY ON COLOUR AS IL HAVE TO PAINT IT ANYWAY....

not exactly great but looks fresher than it did, i would like to take this oppertunity to thank graham @ DG autotec from his help over the phone at a time of need !! very patient and very knowledable, thank you to evrybody on here that put thier 2p in all advice was is appreciated i have new leads from DG on the way

thanks pete, is it possible to open it up a little? i have driven it tonight and it really seems lively!! quite impressed if im honest as not knowing how a manual car behaves , going straight from auto to manual and adding the flywheel and pulleys it seems to go like fcuk! ??? things to not so far.:- fans cutting in and out at temperature 90 so this is good. fans cutting in and out when engine turned off so this is good. not checked aux water pump yet but will on monday. after i have run the car for a couple miles il vag com it again to see if there are any faults

hi there yes lumpy running was down to air leaks me not connecting up the oil breather systme!! lol all vag com'd up and no faults!!! there were none before i started the conversion as i relpaced all the bit that did throw up faults ,lambda, speed sensor etc but all is good first noticable difference doesnt sound the same!! ?? doesnt rev the same feels somewhat resticted? is this possible? looking at the obd2 throttle body it looks weird has a funny angle to it can these be bored out successfully?

i live in torquay and work in newton abbot .......7 miles takes 45 minuets to do the route in the morning in those circumstances usually 26-31 mpg on the mfa lowest ive seen is 24mpg which isnt bad even short runs to cullompton 27 miles i get 34-36 mpg on the mfa

so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..

on the mfa but was very accurate went all the way to praha and back in the vr last year and total trip returned 35.4 mpg worked out properly the mfa said 33.2mpg total trip so all in all not bad..

hmmmmm yes the auto is quite a good deal really, most are well looked after, check out the box history, they can be a bugger i.e not really changing when you want them to but thats old auto's for you, i was pleased with mine and returned 36 mpg most of the time but then i never really thrashed mine, having said that when you do give it some beans they dont change gear until the red line!!!! the conversion now ive done it is quite straight forward and would give someone a hand if they wanted to do another one not something id like to do on my own again but with another pair of hands and a laugh or two providing you had all the bits it could be done in a couple days

excellent cheers kev! il get right on it!

carried on from the top! the headlight ancillary loom plug it looks like this notice it hasnt got as many connections in it trace the wires back to the main part of the loom and snip them off, the brown wires earth and it goes right to the bottom of the loom snip them off neatly around there remove any associated plugs that go with it. get rid of these plugs and this plug oh yes you can get rid of these too get rid of this and this this this no need for this or this or this or this! and this can go! you should start to have a pile of wires that look a bit like this , dont worry ,this is going to get bigger! the golf loom should now resemble something like this after you have used the black insulating tape to give it some shape.. so both looms are on the floor next to each other the obd2 manifold in no doubt will be manky as hell and look rubbish, i took the oppertunity to do something about it a quick wire brush and they really come up quite nice , well respectable. i bought some vht metallic black spray from halfords.. £5.99 and sprayed the manifold the rocker and all the plastics i also painted the engine loom plug bracket as i had a spare just so it looks cleaner it gives quite a good finish. looks a bit neater than it did before..

Just started a how to in the wiki section started a write up and submitted got to wait for approval before I can carry on with it , I didn't want to loose te info I had started so I submitted early I can edit it as I go along Keep an eye out for it bud

Hello folks il try and make this as easy as possible bearing in mind this is a work in progress hey if it's any good it could be stickied in engine bay to make it easy to find? First up, the list , what do I need to convert to Obd2?? 1) obd2 engine bay loom 2) obd2 cabin to engine bay loom 3) obd2 maf 4) obd2 inlet manifold 5) obd2 throttle body 6) obd2 lambda sensor 7) obd2 Ecu Now if this is possible you also need.... But don't worry if it's not possible to get them 8) obd2 keys from donor car 9) obd2 transponder from donor car 10) obd2 immobiliser box If for what ever reason the parts 8,9,10 are not available because you haven't found a full car to get them from, or you are sourcing parts in stages from the forum then don't worry! The obd2 Ecu needs to have the immobiliser circuit deleted from it you can send this to either D&G Autotec or Stealth there are probably other suppliers but these are the two that stick in my mind. When the Ecu has had the immobiliser deleted you do not need parts 8,9,10 this in my experience makes life so so so much easier as sourcing bits can take a while. as a side note please have to hand as its handy loom tape or self amalgamating tape make sure the obd2 manifold has got the accelerator guide on it as mine hasnt :( sharp stanley knife of swan morton blades black insulating tape familiarise yourself with the loom it doesnt matter what does what i didnt have a clue you dont need a lot of it anyway , just make sure you know roughtly whats what. strip the golf loom tape off of the loom , yes this will make a mess do you best to try and keep it loom shape ish.... the golf loom disconnect the battery and remove from car!! next remove header tank as this makes it easier to get at the loom through the corners. i personally decided to take out the corrado loom from the car , so to do this you need to remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder dia phram round thingy in the engine bay this thing here (i know i knw the engine is out and its gonna be easier but honestly i did this conversion with the engine in this pic is just for reference and i didnt get much room to move about) inside the car drivers foor well remove shelves and get a lead light of some sort if you can remove the seat then do it you need to be comfortable when working on this and the less stress the better! there are 4x 13mm nuts just undo them around the brake pedal youl see where i mean, in this photo just above the brake pedal you can just see the nuts well maybe not! not a very good pic but you can just see the white round bit the nuts are situated around it in a square undo these... remove the clip from the brake pedal arm and slide out pin then the slave has to come out this is situated behind the clutch pedal again 2 x 13mm nuts undo them and remove the clip on the clutch pedal slide off black round connector from the pin and you can now go round to the engine bay and remove the slave and the master... you do not have to remove them completly, only just enough to make a gap so you can get at the loom entry through the bulk head. look at the above picture (this was taken from my car while undergoing to auto to manual conversion so no slave is present.) the blanking plate is there the three holes in a line. ok so what you need to do next is to take out the corrado loom unplug all ancillaries from engine (ones that you need to unplug) what do you mean what plugs do i have to remove? which ones?? engine bay loom is wrapped up in the siver foil heat protector at the back of the bulk head undo the releaseable cable ties and follow the loom un plug:- black plug located front engine mount white plug located front engine mount single pin blue wire plug located around starter motor single plug (moderate size) wire from starter motor round multi pin connector block from engine bay loom the ecu multi pin connector im pretty sure thats it?! ok the loom your after runs through the bulk head in the top hole. grabs the wires on theis loom and trace them back to the fuse panel remove all related plugs and multi plugs labelling them up if you want to might make it easier for you? to remove the plugs from the fuse board itsself you need to slide the black slider only goes one way on the board this releases all of the plugs, it is located in the middle of the fuse box and runs the entire length of it it has one end larger than the other, once all the relevant connectors are out you can gently pass the connecters through the bulk head . lay the loom out on the floor and strip it bare too.. why do we have to strip the corrado loom? it just makes it easier to follow and trace the wires back to either the ecu plug or the engine multi pin connector the corrado loom stripped use the black insulating tape to randomly tie the golf loom together in a few places mainly where the wires split off in to different directions. once stripped back get the golf loom and you will notice it has two big round multi pin connectors on it one is obviously engine harness attachment and the other is the golfs lighting ancillary loom ....ditch this cut it out get rid of it fcuk it off throw it away.... ok you got the idea

Right hello bud Got it running on the key.... Bit rough bit lumpy??? Not sure why yet need to wire in the Obd port tommorrow need to find out what wire from the golf loom it is to connect yl tk the existing wires in the car..... I installed the obd2 engine wiring loom this was easy as you literally unplug the obd1 loom and replace with obd2 Thus gives you the right plugs for the throttle body etc Then I've cut out a load of wires from the golf loom Il write up some more in better detail probably tomorrow night bus if you get that far then your doing good!

I bought a hammach digital for £120 4 years ago awesome bit of kit it finally died after polishing 20 t 4's 2x 30 ft boats and a shed load of cars .... I bought a silverline digital for £54 18 months ago and it is fantastic loads better than the hammach best value for money polisher on the Market I'd say, 3 year warranty quiet smooth etc easy to get parts moderate weight good all-round polisher I'm a stickler for farecla products so I always try and use their pads as I know exactly where I am with them an know what they can and can't achieve with them I have used the big ass foam heads you can get for £3 again yes ok but when it comes to my car fareclal pad all the way so much better.....