wormy
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Everything posted by wormy
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Not the best pictures, but what I have on the computer right now.. They're taken last year. Haven't taken any pictures this year, but the car's been starting even though it's been -30 :clap: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf29102008310.jpg[/attachment:2v12udla] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf22022009116.jpg[/attachment:2v12udla] The car looks like it's freezing here - ice taps hanging from where the front lip usually goes.. :cuckoo: 09022009103.jpg[/attachment:2v12udla]
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Will do, thanks :-)
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I'd like a 3 relay loom if you're making any anytime soon. I'm willing to pay more for OEM connectors if you have any available.. :-)
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If you got an open filter, for the love of god, cover it up too :-)
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Yea, cars aren't cheap over here.. My Corrado cost me 4k when I bought it, and that was considered cheap by the people I know that have been riding in the car. The charger needed a rebuild, the car was leeking water "everywhere", the exhaust was bad and the front engine mount needed to be replaced. :roll: Haven't paid too much attention to what a Corrado costs in the UK, but I guess it's a tad cheaper.. :lol: A Corrado VR6 in decent shape is 8k+ too. Needless to say, the number of "legal" Corrado VR6 in the Norwegian Corrado Club can be counted on one hand.. :cuckoo: Here's how it was when I bought it:
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Around Tønsberg (Vestfold "county/fylke") if that helps.. :-p Few hours away from Bergen.. :wave: (if it's the engine you're wondering about, I bought some of the parts from a guy in "Ålesund", after he had some trouble.. Not too far away from Bergen..)
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Not seen that before. What benefit does it give? Just less likely to snap? This was an "experiment" done by Tec afaik around year 2000 or so. The belts were known to snap, so they tried adding two. The theory was that if one snapped, the other would hopefully hold. Also, they share the load, so less wear on them. This is the early "wide belt conversion" I guess.. The bracket for the charger had to be modified a bit for it to fit. Same as for the wide-belt. The charger got a very "belt-like" sound, and I LOVE it.. Should work nicely on the new engine too.. :norty: Updated post #2 with the engine I'm building. Hopefully it'll be a fun drive.. :norty:
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The engine I'm building.. Probably something I forgot to add here.. 264/278 cam with 11.75/10.99mm lift. No clearence between the camshaft/head, so had to the head had to be attacked with the dremel.. (pictures) 1.9 liter with forged pistons, 9:1 compression. Retaining the oil squirters, so had to machine the pistons for clearance, then have them balanced. Ported head with larger valves, stronger valve springs. (SLS Tuning "rs2" head) 333cc injectors Stronger rod/crank bearings Header with 44.5mm primaries and cat-replacement pipe from G-werks Windage tray New oil pump Lightened flywheel VR6 clutch External oil cooler Solid BBM front mount Vibratech rear engine mounts Custom chip Gonna have the bottom end balanced, then I'll start the assembly.. :) Also got a few other parts ready for install -All new polyurethane bushings -New tie rods with new ends -New ball joints -New front strut mount -New wheel bearings all-round -New "eye bolts" for the anti roll bar Also probably gonna buy Black Diamond brake discs/pads.. Pictures: The dremel has been used on all the "holes", but still lacks a bit clearance.
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Hello all! I'm from Norway, and just turned 20. I've had the Corrado for over a year (my first car), and even though I've had to fix alot of things on it, I still love it! :) It had 219000 km's on the clock when I bought it, the charger was new at 140000km - on a 68mm pulley.. :help: - Luckily it was ok! Some of the specs: Autotech stage3 (cam/pulley/chip/isv reroute) 246000km's Mint black leather and black interior Mint grey headliner "Stealth" stereo Yellow koni dampers Dropped 40mm (more like 60 now, sagging springs I think..) After about two months, the heater matrix went... 2liters of coolant on the carpet and isolation.. :gag: About the same time the waterpump started to leak, so that was fixed along with a new timing belt. Also changed the hyrdaulic lifters as they were a bit noisy. When we pulled them out, we noticed that 3 of them were "defective".. :cuckoo: Later, the fuel pump decided to give up. And the exhaust fell off in the spring. :censored: Bought a set of Borbet A's for 250gbp - with tyres. They're painted blue, but gonna refurbish them in the winter.. The charger is a Tec 2RS twinbelt charger. Overhauled it first thing when I got the car, and now - 30000km later, it still pulls 0.95bar from 2000rpm, 1bar from 2500rpm. Decent with a 68mm pulley and RSR outlet, right? :luvlove: Posting a few pictures of how it is now.. "Stealth" stereo.. New speakers in the old stock locations, and a bit extra bass in the trunk.. It may look like overkill, but it plays very nice. It's connected by 2 large connectors on the back, so it can be removed in 2minutes.. :) New speakers in the stock locations: Blue Borbets anyone? As I said earlier up, gonna fix them up in the winter.. Who needs ground clearance in a land like Norway..? Speedbumps every 500meters.. ps: Sorry if the post is a mess - I'm not good at making long posts.. :(
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Here you can see how it's done in mine.. The subwoofer enclosure is yellow because my brother used it in his yellow bmw earlier.. :eek: Running a "stealth" stereo, with new speakers in the original positions.. :-) And yes, I know those "stopping-thingies" are the wrong way.. :cuckoo: The "huge" connectors are so I can remove the sub completly in 2minutes.. For track days, if I need more trunkspace, etc..
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Picture-guide here: http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4448 Hope that helps.. :-)
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Anyone got any experience/thoughts about the "Group A headgasket"? The bores/piston seems to be all nice (measured with the correct tools), so I was hoping for a cheap way of increasing the compression a tiny bit.. :norty: http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsLi ... &SubNav=69
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Just a tad higher compression. The engine's done 160000km and so far looking good. Haven't taken the top of yet, but getting there. Another possibility might be a group A headgasket from VWmotorsport (~0.5 more compression) and to shave the top a tiiiny bit..? :confused4:
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Might get my hands on a another complete G60 engine that I plan to strip down and rebuild. Wondered what piston/rod combo you guys would recomment? Was thinking Scat H-beam rods, but they only seem to come in 144mm length (16V). So then I dunno what piston to use to get the right compression ratio..? Could go custom, but I guess that'd bring up the price a bit.. :confused4: The stock rods that's in the block are probably okay, as the engine was running smoothly before being pulled out of the car. But fresh rods would be nice to have, unless you guys would advice against using others. I've read somewhere that if I change rods, I should go for 144mm also, comments on that? I'd like a bit higher compression ratio then original, something like 9:1 or 9.25:1. (Atm ported RSR G-lader with 68mm wheel, recently rebuild.. No plans for turbo, gonna build the block for the g-lader.) Other info if needed: de-cat, 2.5" new exhaust. Plans for FMIC. Also gonna get the head ported, but don't plan on going big-valves just yet.
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Can't you get to it from the wheel-side? There's a "dust-cap" thing there in the wheel-arch that can be removed with a few screws. That's what I like to call it anyway.. :shrug: Should be possible, since that whole panel can be removed also.
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I really hope it's just some "adjustments", as I have that problem. On both doors.. :help: So please post the results here :(
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Really wondering about the same myself. Maybe it wasn't completly tight, and got bumped into while fiddling around in the engine bay... :s
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I learned something today. Allways double check everything. Or in my case; tripple-check. It was the damn timing that already had been checked a little while ago.. Changed from 3-4 to ~8 btdc. :censored: Just fyi if anyone wondered.
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Could a failing alternator be the cause of this? Noticed today that with the stereo and the lights on, I had 13.2v on the battery. Without anything on I had 13.9v.. I've already replaced the wire from the alternator to the starter, so I'm not loosing any power from the alternator to the battery. The brushes looks kinda new too. The alternator have been making some weird noises the last months, so it might be failing and causing all this? :confused4:
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Hi folks! (I'll start by excusing any bad english that might be here :pale: ) My car have developed some kind of "hesitation" at high rpm's. Typically 4k+. It doesn't happen all the time, but relatively often. It still pulls decently, but not as good as it's supposed to. It might just be for 2 seconds or so, and then be all good, or it might be there untill I change gear. I still got full boost while this happens.. The car is a '91 G60 with a TEC 2rs g-lader that has been ported even more. Running a 68mm pulley. Rebuilt 8 months ago. The charger/boost is not the problem, as it's pulling 0.9-0.95 bar from approximately 3k rpm, and staying there up the revs. :norty: Autotech stage 3 :roll: + ISV-reroute and low-temp rad-switch + thermostat. I've recently changed: 3.5mm x 1m ECU-vacuum hose. Fuel Pump (old one suicided..) Fuel Filter Rotor Distribuitor cap Plug leads Plugs (Bosch w6dp) De-cat'ed the car (as the old one almost broke in 2...) I've done a comp test. Not "good as new", but within specc, and relativly close numbers. I've tested the BTS, both by unplugging it at idle and ohm'ing it - it's fine. Ohm'd the injectors as the Bentley Manual suggests, they're within specc. Co-pot is set to 500ohm (was last time I check anyway..) Timing was set to 6btdc two months ago, then double-checked a while later. The vacuum in the MFA is ~550 at idle, but I haven't checked for any vacuum leaks other then that. (Should I?) Might the oxygen sensor cause this? I know I probably should change it, but being a student, I can't afford to change as many things as I'd like... Any input appreciated.
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Hi, sorry for threadjacking, just got a quick question.. I replaced my old pump with a Bosch one, but the sender unit didn't fit. Will the VDO-sender fit the Bosch pump? :confused4: