wormy

Hi Noticed I've started to get a knocking-ish-sound from the car. Sounds like it's from the charger-area when I try to listen through a hose and a funnel. Gonna try a shorter belt tomorrow if they have it in stock locally, but as I use the car everyday, it'd be nice to know what else it could be.. Doubt it's the engine as it's recently built with all new parts, also doubt it's a loose bolt, but that's on the checklist. If you watch the video there seems to be a bit of "play" on the upper charger pulley at ~25seconds, but that might just be the washer being off-center... :help: The noise seems worse on the video then it really is, but you can hear something's not right when driving the car close to buildings, etc.. The squealing noise is me running the boost-return deleted, and blocking the end of the pipe so no dirt can get into the charger. Any feedback appreciated. Link to video (high quality):

True, but an aftermarket cam might change that, depending on lift/duration.. :?

The car's left hand drive, so that's just a friend. Don't think he shave, but what do I know.. :tongue:

I know some who have shaved 2-3 mm of the discs..! Just be carefull to not take too much so you'll rub on the suspension..! :scratch:

Yea, standard ECU. The wideband has a 0-1v output, might try to lure that into the digifant to see if it makes any changes.. Worth a try I guess.. :)

Well, driving with the lambda sensor disconnected "fixed" the random fuel cuts. The AFR also looked relatively good.. I can't remember how it works - does the car go into "safe mode" when the lambda is disconnected, or could it still be the other sensors..? The lambda is relatively new, but before I built a new engine, I used about 1liter of oil every 500km-1000km.. Might've soaked it a bit too much? :bonk:

No, just happening randomly. Might be the map, but doubt it.. The lambda seems to be working properly, as it's constantly adjusting trying to reach 14.7:1 on the wideband on idle/part throttle. Got a friend with a turbo-build and a stock chip, he got the same problem.. So I'm thinking it's a sensor.. :help:

Hi people! Just finished my new engine, 1.8GTI bottom end, stacked head gaskets and G60 ported big valve head with 333cc injectors and custom chip ++.. I'm running a wideband, and most of the time the fuel is spot on, but I get random "fuel cuts" that sends the AFR way off, typically 17+. Luckily this only happens on part throttle and around 2000rpm. The fuel pump is new, the injectors are new, the fuel rail is in good condition, the o2 sensor is new, no vacuum leaks that I can see, and the injector wiring is brand new. Any suggestions..? I'm thinking it's a sensor bugging up.. Idle switch..? :shrug:

It's the smallest of the two senders on the oil filter housing. Sorry for the horrible picture, but it's the only one I have atm.. :)

On hydraulic lifter heads there's no bearing between cyl 3 & 4. Think I read somewhere that the oil pressure used on the mechanical head was too much for the hydraulic lifters, so they fitted an oil relief valve / oil squirter instead.. It's more or less the same casting as the mechanical heads, so it looks a bit odd. Hope these pictures will convince you.. :) This is how my new SLS big valve head is looking f.ex. My old head.. My other spare head.. My FACTORY NEW EV-code head.. (8v gti)

I can't see anything wrong..? The 8v Mechanical lifter heads have 5 cam bearings, the Hydraulic heads have 4 bearings and one oil relief valve/squirter or whatever you call it just like on your picture.

Running Borbet A's 7.5x16 and 9x16 on 40mm sagging springs.. :clap: Let's just say that the roads in Norway is a tad worse then the UK ones.. (I've been there, so I know the standard..) :help: Needless to say the front splitter broke in 3 pieces the first day with snow.. Got a new one ready to go on when I finish installing the Gti engine with G-lader...

I bought some on eBay last year that was correct.. About £10 per side for stick on glasses.. From this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/newautoparts121 Think they're even "RHD" specced, as they seemed to "zoom" a bit wrong on my LHD car.. Update: Well, fuck me.. They're still listed.. As RHD.. And for £5.5 a piece... :salute: According to their sales ad they also do a non-stick on version.. http://cgi.ebay.com/VW-CORRADO-DRIVER-SIDE-DOOR-WING-MIRROR-GLASS-89-95-/200273649486?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea13d5f4e http://cgi.ebay.com/VW-CORRADO-PASSENGER-SIDE-DOOR-WING-MIRROR-GLASS-89-95-/200273651653?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea13d67c5 Update2: Picture from my car with them on.. Please don't mock the steering wheel. It's fixed now.. And the rims looks white from the sun/mobile camera.. :dorky:

Been a while since I wrote anything here, but still running the old engine.. Untill recently when it started making some interesting noises. Bought a brand new OEM complete front bumper, including the iron. :clap: Piston slap anyone? :censored: Videolink below..

The gti engine actually had hyraulic lifters (I've checked).. So must be from after 1986 or so.. And since I'm running a charger I can't go too high on the rpm's. Also, fitting a ported big valve head should lower the boost a bit, so maybe running around 0.6-0.7 or thereabouts..? (Getting 1bar from 2500rpm on a stock rebuilt head now :norty:) Would be fun to try. But if I stacked 2 gaskets, would that give roughly 9:1 compression..? (I'm not good at engine maths :( )

Just a thought.. Recently bought a fabric overhauled 1.8 8v GTI engine.. (EV code).. For 340gbp.. If I strap a big valve PG head on it, running 10:1 in compression, 68mm pulley on a max portex charger, "nyfam" stage3 ported intake, G-Werks header, Newman 264/268 high lift cam, custom map and E85.. Air-water intercooler to come also.. Would it work or would the compression maybe be too high? Would the PG head fit the EV block? Any thoughts..? :norty: Would the compression still be 10:1 with the PG head, or would it be more/less..?

My guess is that the hood flew open... Seen it happen a few times tbh, even to a person I know.. Everything okay ..?

I've bought from this shop several times G40 - w5dp http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/bosch-w5dp.html G60 - w6dp / w6dp0 - from my experience they're basically the same plug. Same specs, same gap etc.. http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/catalogs ... dp&x=0&y=0

Sweet car.. And results.. The envy.. :shocked!:

OEM bosch lambda sensors with connectors and everything for Corrado are usually on Ebay for around £50 shipped.. Works like a charm for me.. :) If you got a 2.9 vr6 with 4 wires then my guess is this one.. click me

Yep, you have to remove the plate (2 bolts). Some sort of flexible extension for the "hidden" sump bolts, and you should be good to go :clap: I used one like this..

I know I'd certainly like one atleast... :shock:

Isn't that first picture the convertible with a mid-engined VR6..? Think I read that somewhere... :norty:

Anyone? :-)

As topic says, doing a "fast rebuild" of my "daily" G60 engine, as my big bore/big valve project is taking a while.. And I wondered if anyone could help me identify what camshaft this is..? Probably it's the stock camshaft, but can't seem to identify it from what the Bentley says.. Not that it matters that much, but interesting to know what I'll be changing from when the new engine is up and running in a few months or so.. :dorky: